Aquarium Forum
 


Menu
  · Tropical Fish Home
· Fish News
· Aquarium Forum
· Buy & Sell
· Calculators
· Equipment reviews
· Free Aquarium Ebook
· Feedback
· Link to us
· Photo gallery
· Plant species
· Tropica Plant DB
Tropical fish species
· By Common name
· By Scientific name
Tropical Marine fish
· By Common name
· By Scientific name

_________________
 
      
        Via paypal

  AC news is a part of
      Nature Blog Network

      Reef Aquarium Blog

Privacy & Ad Policy

Articles
  · African Cichlids
· Algae Control
· Aquarium Decoration
· Aquarium Resources
· Aquatic Plants
· Barb Fish
· Betta Fish
· Breeding Fish
· Catfish
· Central American Cichlids
· Cichlids
· Clownfish
· Corals
· Corydoras Catfish
· Discus Fish
· Dwarf Cichlids
· Fish Diseases
· Frogs and Turtles
· Goby Fish
· Goldfish
· Gourami
· Invertebrates
· Jellyfish
· Killiefish
· Lake Victoria Cichlids
· Livebearers
· Malawi Cichlids
· Marine Aquariums
· Marine Aquarium Fish
· Other Fish
· Pleco
· Predatory Fish
· Photography
· Pond Fish
· Responsible Fish Keeping
· Rainbow Fish
· Shark Fish
· South American Cichlids
· Tanganyika Cichlids
· Tetra Fish
· Tropical Fish Food
Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Smile Nitrates Just won't go up


    0 Not allowed!
    Not that I am trying to raise them, far from that~ I have the green hair like algae growing on the back of my 24G that houses my seas horses and Manderin, it is VERY thick. I have been testing the water for 3 weeks and the Nitrates would not surpass 10. I know the test is valid as I used it on my FW and eel tanks and they registered where they usually are between my WC's. To be sure, I took my son`s kit and retested just to be sure. Since Nitrates don`t exsist in the ocean, I always wondered why and assumed something has to be eating, processing them. Sea Fans and other marine life had to be doing this. My question then is, is it harmfull if I keep it just to the back of the tank. I clean the tank sides and face daily so it does not spread. It kinda looks good too in my opinion, better than the black plastic of the cube, gives it a more natural look. Thanks as always gang and look forward to the reply`s...BTW, my Manderin spends alot of time in the `Grass` and seems to enjoy hunting in it...I keep the salt, calcium etc levels up with doses of the Marin stuff...
    Life is tough, it's even tougher if your stupid.
    If your not angry, your not paying attention...
    150G Cube FWLR (Morays) 75G Fresh (Bichers/Gourami) 24G Cube (Reef/Goby/Seahorse's/Garden Eels)
    10G Fresh (Beta)
    2 x 29G Breeders (cycling) to be ready for January 15

  2. #2

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If I remember correctly, natural sea water has around 0.3 ppm of nitrate. 10ppm of nitrate is high for a reef tank but it’s not the end of the world either as your tank parameters are stable it will be OK. As you have a lot of hair algae on the back of the tank, I would suggest your set-up has (or is producing) a lot higher levels of nitrates than 10ppm as the algae would be removing a lot of it instantly so it will not show in any tests.

    In both of my set-ups (FOWLR and Reef) my nitrates never climb above 2ppm. IMO, this is due to: large amounts of live rock to increase the amounts of nitrate eating bacteria, the marco algae growing in the sumps, a good quality skimmer, and 10% weekly water changes.

    I would suggest leaving your algae the way that it is as it is helping to keep your water parameters better, and providing places for pods to breed for your mandarin to eat. I too like the look of some algae as it can give a tank a more natural look. If you were to remove it, you would see your nitrate go up a lot which might have some bad effects on the set-up. Maybe try adding some dry/dead rock to the tank to help increase the growth of the nitrate eating bacteria to help lower the nitrates in the water a little more (assuming there is room in the tank for some more rock). You could also look into dosing bacteria to lower the nitrates. I have been reading a lot about lately as one of my fellow hobbyists here in the city that I live in is getting great results with it.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  3. #3

    Smile


    0 Not allowed!
    Cliff, I use 10 as a marker as my kits dont test below 10. I doubt it's over 2 or 3 as a matter of fact, the Seahorses would not tolerate that level (10) and die. I believe that there is a balance in the tank because of the algae. I have been adding Phyto and the Marin stuff to keep everything at norm levels as without water change, the corals deplete what they require. I was just asking if the Algae is a bad thing? lol, my eel tank is never over 20 either before a wc and i may want to introduce the algae there if it's that benificial.
    Life is tough, it's even tougher if your stupid.
    If your not angry, your not paying attention...
    150G Cube FWLR (Morays) 75G Fresh (Bichers/Gourami) 24G Cube (Reef/Goby/Seahorse's/Garden Eels)
    10G Fresh (Beta)
    2 x 29G Breeders (cycling) to be ready for January 15

  4. #4

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Sorry Surf, I understood your post as you had 10ppm but it would not go higher than that

    I know guys with outstanding SPS tanks and no skimmer, only a algae scrubber, and there tanks put mine to shame. Once I can find a deal on a good used tank, I'm setting up a algae scrubber on my 180. I am a strong believer that using algae is among the best ways to keep healthy water conditions. I am amazed at how well the macro algae is working in my sumps as my skimmers don't seam to pull too much out of the water anymore.

    I would recommend getting a better nitrate test kit that will test down to 1ppm. I don't know about you, but not knowing the exact amount would drive me nuts, but I'm a little OCD that way
    Last edited by Cliff; 10-18-2012 at 02:10 AM.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  5. #5

    Smile


    0 Not allowed!
    My bio-cube really doesn't allow for any type of external filtration/water exchanger. I have macro algae stuffed in the back filtration bays along with chunks of live rock. I know ChrisFraser has written many times on the virtues of the algae scrubber. I guess my tanks algae is doing just that...
    Life is tough, it's even tougher if your stupid.
    If your not angry, your not paying attention...
    150G Cube FWLR (Morays) 75G Fresh (Bichers/Gourami) 24G Cube (Reef/Goby/Seahorse's/Garden Eels)
    10G Fresh (Beta)
    2 x 29G Breeders (cycling) to be ready for January 15

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Surfdog
    I guess my tanks algae is doing just that...
    That is what it sounds like. I live by my scrubber once it started going. Amazing difference. I also think natural is best. If the algae don't bother you let it do it's thing.

    My friend is OCD about algae and scrubs the tank all the time. He bought everything I have plus more... yet his coral gorws very slowly. However, I do nothing to my tank and it grows like crazy. I really think it is because I let the algae do it's thing.


    Surfdog, check PM
    300g + 240g in wall build! - Follow Here
    120g SW Reef, LED lights, cool fish and corals!

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •