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Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16
  1. #11

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    That's always sad to need to do that - I hate seeing fish suffer no matter how recently you obtained it.

    Most fish that people bring home are fine - it's a matter of careful observation prior to purchase and introducing them to their new home in a peaceful gentle way so they don't get stressed - turn off the light and let them adjust for a day or two. Most of my new fish react by finding somewhere to hide and they aren't interested in eating at first anyway - sometimes they're "skittish" and dart around because it's new surroundings.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted corys, green corys, 1 guppy, cherry barbs, otoclinus, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    In most cases you get a parasitic infestation and from the parasitic infestations damage you get a secondary infection. Most fish do not die from the parasite ich, for example, they die from the bacterial infection that accompanies the situation of having the sores on them. This is referred to as a secondary infection. Much like how we treat bacterial infection a fish can also be treated for secondary bacterial infections. The best way to treat is through prevention.

    Prevention will consist of a knock down of the total population of bacterial forms in the water that the fish lives within, this is accomplished through proper sanitation and the use of an antibacterial medication such as mela fix or any of the other meds used for general bacterial control. You then must contend with the bacterials that might be upon the fish itself. Much like a human open wound, the wounds on a fish can be treated using a mild bath of hydrogen peroxide as a body dip. I put 10 drops of HP into a 2.5 gallon aquarium and place the fish in there for 30 minutes. The tank is totally clean and empty. To up the dose increase per proportion.

    Reaction time and recognition of a problem always helps towards a successful recovery.

    For open sores and wounds I remove the fish and swab the area directly with a Q Tip with either a 50% solution of HP diluted with distilled water or a 100% solution, go with the scales and try to only administer the HP to the open wound. You can often also do a bath after this treatment. In conjunction with a bacterial population knock down within a QT or hospital tank these methods work fairly well.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I am completely going to sound like an idiot here, IWA, but can I do some of those things as prevention, like the melafix or a dilute hydrogen peroxide dip? WHen we get a new betta, I am concerned that it will have some sort of illness from being in that tiny container of uncirculated water, but am afraid that I won't be able to recognize it right away. Would it be wise to just have melafix in the water or give the fish a hp bath when we first bring it home?

    We have been lucky at this house with the diseases. My fish have not had any problems (other than just up and dying...guppies)for years. But, that means I don't have a lot of practical experience in dealing with them. Daisy was the first.

    I just need to get my ducks in a row here so we can have a successful betta tank. Honestly, I was really upset by Daisy's predicament and demise, even though she was with us for what...less than a week. I can't put another betta through that, not when they are so smart and obviously are confused and uncomfortable.

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If you had the Betta for less than one week you did not put the fish through that, it was already sick. You just had the misfortune of selecting one that was not in good health. When you purchase your next fish you can choose more carefully. You want active alert and responsive fish, in the case of a betta take along a small mirror from a compact or something. Allow the fish to see it's reflection. It should engage this "other" fish. If the fish is unresponsive or lack luster in it's response choose another. If none other are to be found be patient and either wait for others or find another else where. The best thing for a fish is clean waters. You should not need to medicate as medication can also cause some stress. The best thing to do is to learn and move forward, we all do this. If you have doubts or questions you can always ask.

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    so sorry about your betta. I lost one a month ago. had him for a year. You just never know.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Just wanted to update this for anyone who cares...

    I went back to the petsmart today where Daisy came from...almost all the female bettas were dying, some looked dead. They were clearly not maintained well. Makes me think they all were sick there, including her, and all were doomed, no matter where they went. So sad. I will not be buying the next betta from petsmart, at least not that one.

    My LFS, which is really quite good, reguarly has female bettas...but guess what...in a big community tank!! Imagine...female bettas in a harem, with properly filtered water and actual care! Sounds like the chances of finding a healthy one there would be a bit more likely, since they will not be pickling in their own filth.

    Now if only the LFS would quit selling those dyed fish and teeny tiny betta tanks...they'd be nearly perfect

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