stocking advice/opinions wanted

[Cermet]

Soft or hard water is related to dissolved minerals in the water. The more minerals, the harder the water. Some fish like hard water some (like neons/discus like very soft water.) One point, very soft water can suffer dangerous pH swings.

By the way, you say you are nearly cycled - so what are your water parameters? esp. the nitrite levels; also, what level nitrate is in your tap water?

[Seppen]

I go to an lfs to get my water checked every now and then. Today's results was: Ammonia 0, Nitrite, 3ish ppm and i've no idea about nitrate (i didnt ask). I'm not sure about the nitrate in my tap water, i didnt even kno a stat like that was important. i'll find out tomorrow, my lfs may know, right?

EDIT: apparently .3 ppm for my tap water. can i ask, wat does the nitrate in my tap water matter? does it actually effect my cycling in some way? or is it a precautionary thing for some places?

[Cermet]

I really hope the nitrIte level in the aquarium isn't really 3 ppm because that would kill most fish very fast and injure even the toughest, fatally. You need a liquid test kit for ammonia, nitrIte, and nitrAtes. Can't cycle without one if you have fish in the tank. Don't waste your money on the espensive (dry) test strip kits - they don't last (remain accurate) and are way too expensive.

As for nitrates in the tap, no big deal (I have them) if they are low. If the lfs reading is correct (0.3 ppm) that is essentially zero and can be completely ignored. Nitrates above forty is very bad but most common fish can handle under 40 ppm. Special fish (clean water like neons/cardinals) need under 5 ppm nitrates.

Hopefully the nitrite reading may be off (too high but it also may be correct.) No matter, your tank is Not cycled. The bacteria that convert nitrIte into nitrAte haven't grown, yet. You are in the most dangerous phase of a fish based cycle since nitrItes are significantly more toxic to fish and even to plants. You need a 100% water change (but don't touch your filter media! That has the bacteria growning!) Check your water every day (that is why you need the test kit) and change the water until the nitrites are under 0.1 ppm.

By the way, your water changes of 20-30% a week are too small: nitrates will build up too fast in such a small tank. Use the web site in my signature to determine w/C ammount and number. Also gives advice on amount of fish for the tank/filter.

Best of luck. (aside: some aquarium salt @ 1 tsp/10 gal can help fish exposed to nitrites. Remember with water changes, the amount of salt removed needs to be replace. Salt can ONLY be removed by water changes so don't add too much, either. Error on under adding with water changes. After nitrites go to zero, do a 100% WC to remove all salt from the tank.)

[Seppen]

Wow, i was under the impression that i was doing fine, that my nitrites were alright. im hoping its not 3 now that i kno its horribly dangerous, so i'll be going to get my water retested to make sure. my water had higher readings than that(darker pink on the test strip and yesterday it was at a reading halfwy from zero and that darker shade of pink) so i kno there IS bacteria growing just now enough. about my water changes u misunderstood, right now, my water changes are happening every 2 days at 20%. actually i have been doing this since my ammonia spiked weeks ago and had my water checked every 2 days. In any case thanks cermet, i'll be taking ur advice immediately.

[Lady Hobbs]

I would stick to the cardinals or neons and the ottos and not have the platies at all much less 6 of them. 20 gallons is really not a very big tank for that many fish. Platies also give birth so that will add to your stock.

Shrimp will not jump out of your tank. I have 4 open top tank with shrimp in them.

Neon tetra disease is only passed on from live fish feeding off the carcus of dead infected fish. Neon tetra disease is also not limited to just neons but all fish can get it. You also do not need the otto's unless you have a planted tank but of course can have them. But I think you'd have a happier tank with the shrimp, ottos and neons (or cardinals) and omit the platies.

Agree with Cermet on those water changes. Bacteria is in the filter, not in the water. You can change as much water as you want as long as you add back the same temp as you remove and add your dechlorinator before adding the water. You also need your own testing liquid so you can test daily. Once a tank is cycled, that testing is hardly needed anymore as long as you maintain the filter properly.

[Seppen]

Looks good but you might cut back on the Platies they produce a lot of waste.

I would stick to the cardinals or neons and the ottos and not have the platies at all much less 6 of them. 20 gallons is really not a very big tank for that many fish. Platies also give birth so that will add to your stock.

no ones seems to like platies lol
i have taken a pretty strong liking to platies, plus i already have 2 which is wat im using to cycle the tank. both males but i may consider giving one up since one of them is harassing the other.

I'm glad to kno that i can keep shrimp in an open top, i like the cherry shrimps and the crystal shrimp so i'll be looking into those :)

Otos are another fish i saw and really liked, they look cooler than the cory cats anyway. My tank will be planted so my otos should be happy in my tank.

I'll be getting that test; originally, i figured i could use the store's free testing services for a while and follow w/e advice the store guys tell me. now the guys kno me and even remember my last test since i go there a few times a week. :D

[Cermet]

+1 to Lady Hobbs on the stocking - Cardinals are very pretty fish in a large school and with clean water, are tough fish. Use 78 - 82 F and keep nitrates under 5 ppm and they'll really do well. Some cories as clean up crew and that would be a very active tank.

[Lady Hobbs]

Seppen, it's not that I hate them (which I do) but because this is a 20 gallon tank. Patties swimming around trailing poop a yard long doesn't do much for me, either!

You could get another small schooling fish like glowlight tetras, black neons or something if you want a second species that will be a low bioload.

[Seppen]

I really hope the nitrIte level in the aquarium isn't really 3 ppm because that would kill most fish very fast and injure even the toughest, fatally.

Good news: my nitrite wasnt 3 it was about .3 and now many days later my tank is cycled! that only took about a month and 2.5 weeks. Now my stocking plans include a juvenile betta that a family member no longer wants. so i added No Name (she never named it and its blue so im naming it that after the blue uncatchable jellyfish from spongebob ) and an otocinclus i bought on impulse. I'll be keeping an eye on that betta for the next few days... my new stocking will probs be:
6 platy (sorry, but i really like them) I have 2 currently
10 neon tetras (i'll have to keep an eye on them nipping at No Name)
2 otocinclus
3 khuli loach (something tells me u guys wont like anything less than 5 khuli loaches; so if thats the case, wat other bottom feeders options would u say i have? and fyi i dont like cory cats plus they would compete with the otos for algae and bettas like shrimps, right?)
and No Name (i DO have a back up plan if the neons nip his fins)

[steeler1]

Neons won't nip anything but maybe each other and the Cories will eat a alage tablet but won't compeat with other fish if it's growing.