Aquarium Forum
 


Menu
  · Tropical Fish Home
· Fish News
· Aquarium Forum
· Buy & Sell
· Calculators
· Equipment reviews
· Free Aquarium Ebook
· Feedback
· Link to us
· Photo gallery
· Plant species
· Tropica Plant DB
Tropical fish species
· By Common name
· By Scientific name
Tropical Marine fish
· By Common name
· By Scientific name

_________________
 
      
        Via paypal

  AC news is a part of
      Nature Blog Network

      Reef Aquarium Blog

Privacy & Ad Policy

Articles
  · African Cichlids
· Algae Control
· Aquarium Decoration
· Aquarium Resources
· Aquatic Plants
· Barb Fish
· Betta Fish
· Breeding Fish
· Catfish
· Central American Cichlids
· Cichlids
· Clownfish
· Corals
· Corydoras Catfish
· Discus Fish
· Dwarf Cichlids
· Fish Diseases
· Frogs and Turtles
· Goby Fish
· Goldfish
· Gourami
· Invertebrates
· Jellyfish
· Killiefish
· Lake Victoria Cichlids
· Livebearers
· Malawi Cichlids
· Marine Aquariums
· Marine Aquarium Fish
· Other Fish
· Pleco
· Predatory Fish
· Photography
· Pond Fish
· Responsible Fish Keeping
· Rainbow Fish
· Shark Fish
· South American Cichlids
· Tanganyika Cichlids
· Tetra Fish
· Tropical Fish Food
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 38
  1. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    second that ^

    there really isn't such a thing as to much of a water change, unless you remove all of it and leave your fish lying in the gravel...that is too much.

    I just did an 85% change thursday....and it actually was the best thing for my tank:
    cleared up the water, helped get rid of my diatoms, and help with a baby spike in ammonia.
    fish are happy, fine and enjoy the fresh water, as do my plants, so that wasn't close too much. I left about 3inches of water in the tank...just enough for all the fish to be able to get around still and get stressed by it.

  2. #12

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    The first day I set up my canister I about killed all my fish because I had the nozzle underwater too far. You do not need a splash but you do need to break up the surface tension. Water needs to move about in order to let oxygen in.

    You can change as much water as you want as long as you replace it with the same temp as you remove and add your dechoorinator before adding the new water. I agree you need to leave buffers alone. If your pH needs to be raised, do it naturally with a few shells. An uncycled tank never has a pH that is reliable. Test the water from your tap before making any changes.
    Last edited by Lady Hobbs; 10-06-2012 at 04:40 PM.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm so glad I spotted this thread. I just adjusted the nozzled and spray bar on my 90. I have 2 air bubblers going for additional aeration but I've been worried about surface movement. One of my dwarf Gourami's had been hanging out around the top of the water. That should have been a tipoff. As soon as I adjusted both the spray bar and the nozzles to create more surface agitation, he became more lively.
    Jeez ... despite all my best intentions, there are so many opportunities to kill fish without even trying
    Last edited by Lady Hobbs; 10-08-2012 at 03:13 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by fishmommie
    I have 2 air bubblers going for additional aeration but I've been worried about surface movement. One of my dwarf Gourami's had been hanging out around the top of the water. That should have been a tipoff.
    Normally 2 air bubblers should suffice in a 90.

    Gouramis are labyrinth fishes and top dwellers. They can (also) breathe oxygen directly and being top dwellers its not surprising they stay closer to the water surface. I would be more worried if my mid or bottom dwellers started coming up to the surface. Here's something from the AC on gouramis -

    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/gourami/

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Hey - thanks for the input. I realize that they normally dwell toward the top as I've had these guys for almost 9 months. This behavior was excessive. Adjusting the spraybar and the power heads has helped. And thanks for the link. appreciate it.
    Last edited by Lady Hobbs; 10-08-2012 at 03:12 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by 850R
    "too much water" Please clarify this.
    I change out half the water from the 46 G tank. I called my store and they said my dissolved solids may be too low and to add aquarium salt. I did and half an hour later the fish stopped dying and looked more active. So I guess it worked. The store said no more than a 30 percent water change. ???

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Santiago
    I change out half the water from the 46 G tank. I called my store and they said my dissolved solids may be too low and to add aquarium salt. I did and half an hour later the fish stopped dying and looked more active. So I guess it worked. The store said no more than a 30 percent water change. ???
    Santiago - what are your water perimeters? Ammonia? Nitrites? Nitrates? Are you sure your tank is fully cycled?
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  8. #18

    Default I have to ask: You did dechlor the water right?


    0 Not allowed!
    So . . . They magically determined your TDS water parameters over the phone? Those people are good.

    Lets be perfectly clear: Considering the pH and filter issues you have been having, Unless your source water is SERIOUSLY out of whack . . . Something else was going on.

    I seriously suspect that the 50% WC had more to do with the improvement of your fish than anything else mentioned in the scenario above.

    I never do less than 40% each week and many people here change >%50 weekly.

    Many also [Myself included] use no salt whatsoever in fresh water tanks on a regular basis, It's commonly only used as a treatment.
    Gas mileage isn't everything OIIIIIIIO
    Lack of planning on your part does not constitute an emergency on my part.
    Why pretend there are no stupid questions? Actually, There are many stupid questions: "Should I drink this bleach?" Is just one example.
    Having said that, Just because it's a stupid question doesn't mean that it shouldn't be asked. It's better to know.

    A warm beer is better than a cold beer. Because nothing is better than a cold beer, and a warm beer is better than nothing.

  9. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yes it's a mystery. Zero on amonia nitrates nitrites and 6.6 PH
    Aquarium has been established 3 years. Was not temperature shock because they kept dying 2 days after the change. Hmmm...

  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Santiago
    Yes it's a mystery. Zero on amonia nitrates nitrites and 6.6 PH
    Aquarium has been established 3 years. Was not temperature shock because they kept dying 2 days after the change. Hmmm...
    Zero nitrAtes? that's odd. An established tank should show some nitrates. What kind of a test kit do you use? API liquid would be the best.
    Any chance you forgot to use water conditioner?
    Did you clean your filter media in tap water and possibly lose your cycle?
    Just reaching for ideas here.
    Also - I read back to your first post. it appears you set up a new filter on this tank? Are you still using the old one while this new filter gets seeded? If not, that could be your problem. You no longer have an established tank. You're starting from scratch and doing a brand new cycle.
    And if your water is reading 0 on everything ... was that before or after a W/C. If after, you're still cycling...

    BUT - none of that is applicable if you're still using a fully seeded filter along with your new one.

    Can you tell us your filter situation?
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •