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Results 31 to 40 of 41
  1. #31

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
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    Hi everyone,

    I want to thank you all for your time in considering my problem and trying to help me come up with a solution. And especially thank you to Lady Hobbs and Rocksor who both suggested what seems to be the solution to my problem.

    My water was starting to clarify (as usual when it gets nearer to the next water change), and after my first water change with Prime, the water didn't become cloudy again! The tank is so clear now that you can't even tell there's water in it.

    Thanks again!
    Joseph Granata
    My decommissioned 37gal freshwater community tank journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...d.php?t=116054
    My current 37gal FOWLR tank journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...42#post1214342

  2. #32

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    first thing i notice is you pull all your stuff out when doing a water change.. bad move they dont need to be cleaned... doing anything less than a 50% change is useless as far as im concerend.. the bene bacteria is all over that stuff. most water conditioners are useless get a test kit and check your water right out of the tap and we can help you from there.
    The only substitute for good manners is fast reflexes.
    RIP Roscoe. We will meet again Bug.

  3. #33

    Join Date
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    Bushwacker, why a water change less than 50 percent useless? I use to do a 20 to 25 percent on a 20 gallon and had serpae tetras spawn and I wasn't even trying to get them to. I agree if your bioload is towards the high side but any water change is better than none if done regularly. The key is to be consistant.

  4. #34

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    I've mentioned that a 50% water change is dangerous. The experts here don't seem to agree. The fact is this, I am a plumbing contractor and I do sterilant testing on water on a daily basis as I also install drinking water filtration units.

    The amounts of sterilants ( chlorine and chloramine) are at high levels due to the elevated temperatures of the source waters at this time due to high temperatures and drought. Higher temperatures cause more bacterial activity and increases coliform water borne virus and other pathogens in the drinking water. In order to make the water a safe for human consumption product the amounts of sterilants and or their specific chemistry are changed to combat these water borne nuisances.

    It is therefore not the same dose of sterilant most are used to in their water changes. Sterilants burn gill tissue and inhibit oxygen uptake. They burn the slime coat, this opens the fish to invasives. I recommend doing only 35% water changes during these warm months and until the source waters cool to a lower temperature. Multiple 35% water changes in a week are just as effective without the danger of burning the fish.

    I run a dual canister of 5000 gallon carbon matrix filters to pull my chlorine, I have them on a 2000 gallon duty cycle due to the added sterilants.

    I know the exact amount of chlorine in my water down to the part per million. I advise the 35% maximum change.

  5. #35

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    There is a reason why I use water conditioners like Seachem Prime. If it is true that large water changes kill fish, then my fish should be dead by now (or within days), especially when I quarantine them for 4-6 weeks with just an airstone and daily water changes of 50-75%, with 100% water change once a week.

  6. #36

    Join Date
    Nov 2011
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    Red Deer, AB, Canada
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    +100 rocksor. If 50%+ water changes are bad, then all the fish of the senior members here are all supposed to be dead by now.

    As i told you IWA, stop overcomplicating things.

    As to bushwacker, IMO, 25% water change is better than none.
    Da name's Paul. Not Dave. ROFL

    Learn to give and take. That's how things should always work.

  7. #37

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indian Woods Angels
    I've mentioned that a 50% water change is dangerous. The experts here don't seem to agree. The fact is this, I am a plumbing contractor and I do sterilant testing on water on a daily basis as I also install drinking water filtration units.

    The amounts of sterilants ( chlorine and chloramine) are at high levels due to the elevated temperatures of the source waters at this time due to high temperatures and drought. Higher temperatures cause more bacterial activity and increases coliform water borne virus and other pathogens in the drinking water. In order to make the water a safe for human consumption product the amounts of sterilants and or their specific chemistry are changed to combat these water borne nuisances.

    It is therefore not the same dose of sterilant most are used to in their water changes. Sterilants burn gill tissue and inhibit oxygen uptake. They burn the slime coat, this opens the fish to invasives. I recommend doing only 35% water changes during these warm months and until the source waters cool to a lower temperature. Multiple 35% water changes in a week are just as effective without the danger of burning the fish.

    I run a dual canister of 5000 gallon carbon matrix filters to pull my chlorine, I have them on a 2000 gallon duty cycle due to the added sterilants.

    I know the exact amount of chlorine in my water down to the part per million. I advise the 35% maximum change.
    Sir, I respect what you do for your tank and living. It is good you know all that about the water aspect for fishkeeping. But to be brief, I have an extensive scientific background that I care not to say as to not get into a "job competition" But the fact is, the bacteria we care about does not live in the water, it has to attach itself to something in order to live. Therefore, all the filters now a days, cannester/hob all have certain "media grabbers" so that the bacteria can attach itself to and grow. So when members, and myself do such massive water changes, we are just removing the elevated harmful chemical compounds to the fish. I personally do 50% pwc weekly at a minimum, just depends what mood I'm in.
    Back to your recommendation of anything greater than 35% is dangerous, then how come my fish play in the new water being poured in? or how come all my fish are still alive?
    test kits for fishkeeping is to keep the fish healthy and happy. it makes things much much more simple for people to understand the science happening in their tank.
    Gotta walk before you can run.

  8. #38

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    Quote Originally Posted by pjaldave
    +100 rocksor. If 50%+ water changes are bad, then all the fish of the senior members here are all supposed to be dead by now.

    As i told you IWA, stop overcomplicating things.

    As to bushwacker, IMO, 25% water change is better than none.
    I told you why. Sometimes you have to change things a bit due to environment.

  9. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by mizzoutank
    Sir, I respect what you do for your tank and living. It is good you know all that about the water aspect for fishkeeping. But to be brief, I have an extensive scientific background that I care not to say as to not get into a "job competition" But the fact is, the bacteria we care about does not live in the water, it has to attach itself to something in order to live. Therefore, all the filters now a days, cannester/hob all have certain "media grabbers" so that the bacteria can attach itself to and grow. So when members, and myself do such massive water changes, we are just removing the elevated harmful chemical compounds to the fish. I personally do 50% pwc weekly at a minimum, just depends what mood I'm in.
    Back to your recommendation of anything greater than 35% is dangerous, then how come my fish play in the new water being poured in? or how come all my fish are still alive?
    test kits for fishkeeping is to keep the fish healthy and happy. it makes things much much more simple for people to understand the science happening in their tank.
    Gotta walk before you can run.
    You sir did not read my post.

  10. #40

    Join Date
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    Jackson, MI
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    I did read your post and I am curious...

    Would putting in more dechlorinator counteract this problem? I have heard that the chlorine levels fluctuate, but I hear most people OD on dechlor anyway...would that fix it or is there a special byproduct/way too much chlorine to fix?
    20 gallon with a male betta, neons, glowlights, and red cherry shrimp. (work in progess) Recently added a few LIVE plants and driftwood, Woooohoooo!

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