Results 11 to 20 of 22
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07-01-2012, 05:45 PM #11
i didnt realize it would take that long for the plants to get acclimated. That would explain those plants. but the other variety of swords (long stem and bulb shaped leaf) has been in the tank for 2 month and it still is getting random brown leaves...that is why this is just confusing. ha
Ya the lighting is kinda awkward with the bulbs only at 18inche long.
The tank is fairly bright-but in comparison to other tanks ive seen its not the best.
The only thing i can think of is the lack of lighting/nutrients.
but i change the water weekly, and since ive added enough plants now-i hardly touch the substrate when changing the water.
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07-01-2012, 08:44 PM #12
Member
Oscar
- Join Date
- Nov 2008
- Posts
- 524
I still think your lighting is medium to high light. A 40Br tank is only 16 inches tall. See this chart, second chart down:
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=105774
All T5HO lights put out the same light intensity so if you have 2 side by side (not axially) bulbs, you could very well have high light if the plants are located under the light.
I dont like API tabs. They are extremely fast dissolving and without a high CEC substrate, nutrients wont hang around the roots very long. If you're going to use pea gravel, I'd switch to a slow release tab like Seachem Flourish Tabs or RootMedic Complete capsules. Also, API tabs have plenty of NPK but are lacking in the micronutrients. Seachem tabs have micronutrients but little NPK. I cant find any composition specs to back this up though. So you could very well be lacking in some nutrients. You almost have to use both types of tabs :-) I've had good luck with Seachem tabs though.
Also, Petco is notorious for selling non-aquatic plants.
http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=179459
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07-01-2012, 09:35 PM #13
I have seen that chart and based that off of purchasing my bulbs. however that chart doesnt take into account the length of the bulbs. There is a noticeable shading going on because my bulbs do not span the entire way (or close enough)
I have plants all over the tank-this makes it difficult because the 40b is pretty darn deep. So some plants-the swords are under the light-and some compacta don't get as bright of light.
I'll go online and purchase the seachem tabs and try to just do one issue at a time to see if that solves it-if it doesn't then i'll explore the awesome light 850R found.
Petco is such a hit or miss place-but I'm sure mine are aquatic plants. I've done enough research to make sure the options at the store are aquatic.
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07-01-2012, 09:41 PM #14
Yup, That's what I was saying before about the spread of the light. I am sure it's bright where it is. The problem is that there are plants where is isn't [bright]
Petco and petsmart should both have the Flourish tabs - But call first if it's a trip.
These are commonly sold at petsmart and other Bigbox stores, None are aquatic plants:
Mondo grass:

Dracaena:

Lucky Bamboo:

Last edited by Goes to 11!; 07-01-2012 at 09:48 PM.
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07-11-2012, 11:29 PM #15
sorry for the late reply-took some vacation for the 4th.
I just ordered some flourish tabs-my petco only has api tabs (which is what i've used)-the flourish tabs will come in next week and we'll see what they'll do!
thanks again-those pics helped in the fake plants-helps in the future so i avoid purchasing them :)
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07-11-2012, 11:50 PM #16
I recommend getting t5ho as others have already stated, that leaves nutrients and CO2.
I say you should switch to a nutritious substrate or use perhaps RootMedic root tabs and the liquid ferts, though you said you don't want to mess with it ;p
CO2-Its either hope that there just won't be algae and that your plants will do fine, use flourish excel(liquid carbon fert. There is no way you will get algae with it, because sometimes people use it to kill algae!) or Pressurised CO2, perhaps through a full system, such as Greenleafaquariums Choice.
Compacta---> Correct me if I'm wrong, but theres a plant called Hygrophila compacta. https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&...NOio2wXp3LTkDwIts Phillip, not Origami.
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http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=184368
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07-12-2012, 12:03 AM #17
I agree with that recommendation. However, as with any problem with a lot of variables--I'm planning to try and test one at a time. I'll see if the new addition of tabs helps any/does anything, i'll explore the lights.
The reason i'm against the liquid ferts is b/c the api liquid fert I used just bloomed green hair algae. So I'm just afraid that'll happen again.
I've thought about the liquid CO2 stuff-but just can't do a full CO2 system-I travel to much for work to deal with that.
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07-12-2012, 12:21 AM #18
A pressurised CO2 system really isn't too much work. Assemble/diffuse/set pH controller. Just when the CO2 gets low(matter of months) re-fill it locally. On GLA you can get large 15lb cylinders that must take quite a bit of time to run out.
However, they are quite expensive.Its Phillip, not Origami.
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http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/sh...d.php?t=184368
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07-14-2012, 04:16 PM #19
tabs will take a while to start dissolving and mixing where the plants can start to absorb. have you tried any liquid nutrients such as tetra florapride? I had to use this to initiate the plants. once they stabilized they kinda take care of themselves.
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07-14-2012, 04:21 PM #20





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