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Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. Default Parasites? or fungus? maybe both..?

    Hi all.
    I am a little stomped and need some input.
    10 gallon tank with two male bettas (with divider).
    All water parameters are well within normal.
    Treated about 2 weeks ago with maracyn-two for popeye, that is all better.
    Did water changes, all levels are still great.
    Shortly there after Seaweed's gills started to be constantly partually open and pumping faster, they are also a brighter red on the inside. That is still going on and in addition he has what I can only compare to looking like tiny mold spots on fins (like you would get on cheese, but not fluffy..), especially anal and dorsal. He doesn't seem to be rubbing up to anything to itch, doesn't hang out at bottom listless, or at top breathing hard/gasping. He is swimming around maybe in a little bit more of a jerky style then normal. Eats like a pig (normal)
    It is not ic. It is not fluffly and looking like cotton deases. It doesn't look like any of the pix I have been able to find of black spot. I don't see any anchor worms or flukes. But he does also have a hint of grey almost underneath/between some of the scales, it's so hard to see unless you get the perfect angle, sight. Mr Blue that is in the other half of the tank is fine. And yes, I did try to take pix to show, but he does not want to be a model today, and turns every time I try to take a pix
    :-(
    I (and Seaweed) appreciate all and any input and ideas that you all might have.
    Thanks from both of us.

  2. #2

    Default

    The most important question........what are the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates levels? You will always be asked that so may as well include it in the question.

    I see you used Maracyn. Antibiotics "can" destroy the bacteria in the filter causing you to loose your cycle. Your fish having red gills sounds as this is what has happened and he needs some relief from ammonia.
    Cycling With Fish?•• The Fishless Cycle••
    Goldfish Growth Expectancy••

    The single biggest problem with communication is the illusion that it has taken place. "
    George Bernard Shaw"

  3. Default

    Ammonia is well under.25, NO2 at 0 and NO3 at about 30. That is where the levels have stayed for weeks, and with the "mildew/mold" looking spots....? And I'm sorry, I should have made that clear that that's what I meant with
    "levels are still great"...:-)

  4. #4

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    Exclamation

    Quote Originally Posted by Alex5711
    Ammonia is well under.25, NO2 at 0 and NO3 at about 30. That is where the levels have stayed for weeks, and with the "mildew/mold" looking spots....? And I'm sorry, I should have made that clear that that's what I meant with
    "levels are still great"...:-)
    Ammonia not zero!? Your filter isn't cycled, bacteria was damaged or is overwhelmed. If overwhelmed than you either need a better/more filters or fewer fish. If not fully cylced (for which ever reason) than you need to read that section and finish cycling the tank.

    Since nitrates are rather high and due to the non-zero ammonia you need to do a 75% water change asap. Continue watching ammonia and keep it close to zero, not 'well under' 0.25 ppm. The fish are sick and need clean water.

    The fungus issues or parasites are most likely due to the non-zero ammonia and need clean water.
    Last edited by Cermet; 06-28-2012 at 12:43 PM.
    Knowledge is fun(damental)

    A 75 gal with eight Discus, fake plants, and a lot of wood also with sand substrate. Clean up crew is fifteen Sterba's Corys. Filters: canister w/UV, in-tank algae scrubber that removes phosphates and nitrates! Also, a highly dangerous commercial nitrate removal unit from hell

    For Stocking Questions see: http://aqadvisor.com/AqAdvisor.php?

    For Fishless cycling:http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640

  5. #5

    Default

    +1 with everything written before me - most fish don't show signs of illness unless their water conditions are not optimal. The popeye you just treated is an example.

    Good water parameters shouldn't "all be within normal" (I don't know what you definition is of this) - they should be 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites & 20 or less nitrates.

    Once there is ammonia in the water, you never know which fish will be affected by it so you need to remove it and check the capacity of your filter - it is best to have filtration for double the volume of your tank to handle the waste of those fish.
    46 gal fw tank with black skirt tetras, neon tetras, spotted cory catfish, cherry barbs, guppies, snails & 4 amano shrimp - plastic & live plants
    5 gal QT with green corys & 2 guppies

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