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Thread: 18 months....
06-16-2012, 05:52 AM #1
Here is the fish when she arrived Dec. 16th 2010
Here is the fish March 2011 following a 3.5 month long battle with Hexamita...fish did not feed at all for at-least 4 weeks.
Here is the fish September 2011...really starting to get her bee pattern
06-16-2012, 05:52 AM #2
Here is the fish now
Last edited by MCHRKiller; 06-16-2012 at 05:55 AM.75G|75G|56G|55G|50G|50G|29G|20G|20G
06-16-2012, 06:34 AM #3
beautiful pictures! I want an oscar so badly, and this isn't helping...300 gallon mega tank: sailfin pleco, clown loaches, silver dollars, roseline sharks, congo tetras, new world cichlids
75 gallon community tank: bolivian rams, black skirt tetras, danios, bronze corys, harlequin rasboras, otos, bristlenose and bulldog plecos, assassin snails, various shrimp
60 gallon goldfish tank: fancy goldfish
06-16-2012, 06:47 AM #4
Oh she's sooo pretty!
I want an Oscar too, but I just haven't quite wrapped my mind around such a large aquarium for a single fish. I'm not implying that they should be in smaller tanks, but that I can't imagine myself wanting a single fish more than a large community.~Manna
10 gallon live planted aquarium with 6 neons
90 gallon fw community in progress
06-16-2012, 06:53 AM #5
These A.orbicularis are extremely deep bodied fish, I would never suggest one in less than a 90-100G tank. If the tank were at least 5ft some tank-mates would be possible so you wouldnt have just a single fish. Typical A.ocellatus dont reach the mass these do so you can get away with a 75G tank. But with any tank with an O....all other fish are just filler, they are worth the investment and tank size75G|75G|56G|55G|50G|50G|29G|20G|20G
06-16-2012, 06:56 AM #6
07-21-2012, 02:09 AM #7
0Originally Posted by MCHRKillerfishguy420
06-17-2012, 03:58 PM #8
I have read that if people would de-worm their fish, that the HITH problem would be eradicated and a thing of the past. Do you agree with any part of that statement?
I don't have these big fish but just the thought of them having internal worms, perhaps for years, "bugs" (pun) me so much that mine all get treated regardless. Not sure why people wait until worms are falling out of them and the fish is on it's last leg.
What did you use on this Oscar to bring him back from where he was? He looked so bad in the first photo and even had white areas on his belly. Not sure it is was more pits forming or fungus be he sure was a sick puppy.
06-17-2012, 06:34 PM #9
Actually the white is coloration...these things go through multiple color-phases. She came in with some white marble coloration this led to a solid black phase then that lightened to give way to the bee pattern.
This fish came from Jeff Rapps, he de-worms the fish upon arrival and has a very sophisticated QT system. When I received the fish I only used a little Prazi-Pro laced in their first feeding, I was out of meds and really did not thing it was an issue given their source. I QT'd the fish for a while to let them recover from shipping and put them in the 150G. Well all hell broke loose and this fish claimed the whole tank for her territory and killed the other. I put them in one night and came home from work the next evening and one was dead and this one was mauled. None of the other fish were bothered so I can only venture to say this is what happened since this fish was not being pestered by the other fish at the time. I suspect the stress associated with the brawl was what put the Hexamita into motion in my case.
I think many people confuse Hexamita/HITH/HLLE. Pretty much any pitting of the head and a thin appearance is dubbed HITH. True Hexamita is a parasite which robs the fish of nutritional value, the symptoms are also much more severe. With Hexamita infestation you will see white slimy fecal matter, buoyancy issues, lethargic behavior, total loss of appetite, thickening slime coat to the point the fish has a grey cast...as well as the common weight loss and pits on the head. Typical "HITH" is more of a symptom of poor water conditions and nutritional deficiency. Oscars like a lot of cichlids require higher levels of vitamin C which is a factor to what is generally known as "HITH". Improving all factors does help....but with any case of pitting and weight loss I would treat for Hexamita just to be cautious.
For treatment on this fish I tossed everything I could at her...I initially used General Cure...because it was all I had available. It did not do much, once I was able to get my shipment of appropriate meds in the mail I used a combo of Prazi Pro and Metro+. This did a little but still noting remarkable. I did daily WCs and kept the water well aerated...the fish did not do a turn around until I kind of gave up and went into a cure or kill mindset. The fish would not feed so I decided to force feed her Metro+. I got some aquarium water and mixed with some Metro+ in a syringe(minus the needle of course). I removed the fish to a shallow bowl and pried her mouth open to inject the Metro+solution. I did this once a day for 3 days. The next day following the treatment I did another WC and offered some bloodworms soaked in garlic...she ate all I gave her. I completed the treatment by soaking food in Metro+ for another week and gave her another round of Prazi Pro before moving her back to the 150G. I also treated the 150G for precaution...no fish has been affected since. I am convinced the fish would not be alive if it weren't for force feeding her Metro+, it was a last ditch effort that thankfully worked.
I do fully advocate strict QT practices even if your fish come from an amazing source, but be aware even pre-treating fish and deworming them is not always 100% affective and with cichlids (especially wild cichlids) you may have something go wrong if the fish is subjected to periods of stress.
Last edited by MCHRKiller; 06-17-2012 at 06:39 PM.75G|75G|56G|55G|50G|50G|29G|20G|20G
06-17-2012, 06:53 PM #10
She looks amazing Jenn!Originally Posted by i_am_511