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Results 41 to 50 of 96
  1. #41

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    0 Not allowed!
    ...that's why you'd need a dedicated fridge...set to the proper temperature...

    Hibernating a tortoise in among the salad fixings likely isn't a good idea...

    I'd be paranoid about oxygen...opening the door all the time for air flow doesn't seem very restful for a hibernating animal...or having unstable O2 levels...
    55 g Goldfish Tank - 3 Fancies, 2 Comets
    25 g Tropical Tank - Celestial Pearl Danio/Mixed

  2. #42

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rue
    ...that's why you'd need a dedicated fridge...set to the proper temperature...

    Hibernating a tortoise in among the salad fixings likely isn't a good idea...

    I'd be paranoid about oxygen...opening the door all the time for air flow doesn't seem very restful for a hibernating animal...or having unstable O2 levels...

    Yes exactly... You need to keep the animal cold but also allow for airflow but you can't provide both at the same time consistently... seems like a dilemma to me.

  3. #43

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    0 Not allowed!
    You just use a box with holes in it, in their vivarium, with the thermostat set at the lower temperature. And if your house is warm you just pop it in the garage :)
    My therapist says I need a bigger tank . . . . .

  4. #44

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    0 Not allowed!
    Maybe that works well in Scotland...

    ...but, we have no garage...and when it get -40C, it gets that cold out in the barn too...

    I suppose the chicken coop might work...but I think the temp. fluctuates too much in there...
    55 g Goldfish Tank - 3 Fancies, 2 Comets
    25 g Tropical Tank - Celestial Pearl Danio/Mixed

  5. #45

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    0 Not allowed!
    Done some reading to help us all out here.

    To hibernate a tortoise.

    Gradually reduce feeding over several weeks, then stop feeding altogether 2 weeks prior to hibernating. This cleans out their digestive tract as when in a state of hibernation their digestion stops completely, so if theres food in their stomachs it will rot and cause problems.

    You check with your vet if your tort is healthy enough to hibernate, if so weigh him/her and put them in a small cardboard box with newspaper, makes holes for ventilation, then place that box in a slightly bigger one with holes.

    Temperature (for hermanns, not sure exact numbers for others) they need to hibernate between 3C-7C. They CANNOT reach temperatures below this, if temp hits 0C they will probably die, if not then there is a high chance of them being blinded from the fluid in their eyes freezing. (How sad is that!!! thats a common newbie mistake supposedly ) This is why fidges are a no no. We all know that fridges sometimes hit 0C.

    In the wild torts hibernate by digging into the ground where the temp stays in the safe range. Do wake your tortoise up increase the temp to 10C, this stimulates spring. During the hibernation period you weigh your tort every other day and gentley touch their legs, they should retract in.

    So if your home is above 10C its a good idea to put the whole vivarium in the garage. A heat mat attached to a thermostat will ensure the temperature never drops below 5C.

    There will be more info in greater detail but that is the very basics Rue, hope it helped slightly.
    My therapist says I need a bigger tank . . . . .

  6. #46

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    0 Not allowed!
    It helps. Thanks.

    The chicken coop is definately out. I try not to let it get below 0...but it does on very cold nights.
    55 g Goldfish Tank - 3 Fancies, 2 Comets
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  7. #47

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    0 Not allowed!
    I honestly see no issue with not hibernating an animal in captivity (in most cases). Some will say that they need this down time to fast and help control body weight, but I think if you dropped your temps a bit and fed a little less, you would be fine. If there are so many riskes involved...Why do it?

    As humans we are not able to provide the exact conditions for this animal to properly hibernate. In the wild this animal will seek out the best possible spot to hibernate...He does not have this option in captivity. He gets what we give him. I'm sure you can be successful if researched enough (which you do seem to be doing). Just my 2 cents.
    -Jordan
    Gar connaisseur

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  8. #48

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    0 Not allowed!
    Good point demjor, in keeping a pet we are trying to mimic there natural environment but that is very hard to do in some cases. I will continue reading up on it anyway, got the whole summer to decide anyway so do you think I would just have a more sluggish tort if it didn't hibernate? Over the winter that is :)
    My therapist says I need a bigger tank . . . . .

  9. #49

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    0 Not allowed!
    I really don't think you or it would notice a difference as long as the temps don't drop significantly. Any reptile will "hibernate" or brumate once the temps drop below a certain temp. The only two good reasons I've ever heard for brumating a reptile are 1.) to help control body weight and 2.) for follicular developement and breeding purposes.
    -Jordan
    Gar connaisseur

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    20" Tropical Gar, 18" Florida Gar, 20" Longnose Gar,
    17" Ornate Bichir, 25" Silver Arowana, 16" Bowfin, 15" Giant Gourami

    16" Male Dovii

  10. #50

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    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks for the advice Demjor! I think I will go for the option of just reducing feeding and temerature over the winter. My temperature is set at 32c, there is a slightly hotter basking are and a cooler end. Are these tmeps ok?
    My therapist says I need a bigger tank . . . . .

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