My 10 G NANO project
i am starting a 10G nano for my first time, this should be a great adventure. the nano will only consist of inverts and corals.
10 gallon tank with a Acrylic top with cut outs for air
IO mix-i heard that this brand causes algea problems but its all the store had at the moment.
160gph ebay power head- will replace with korilla nano soon
5 gu10 led lights 3 blue 2 white- on order
Aragonite sand- 10lbs
for live rock im getting some from a guy on craigslist $3/lbs or 44/lbs for purple liverock- this im getting tonight roughly 7-10lbs to start
here is the link for the live rock- please do tell if you think its worth it or not :)
my lights for cycling till i get my GU10's wire and delivered
Last edited by Hpimichael02; 11-05-2011 at 06:02 PM.
I'm not too sure about that live rock in the link. You have to look closely at it. If it is porous, than it should be OK for $3/lb.
When you get your live rock, I would suggest cycling your tank with the lights off and even cover the tank to make it completelty dark. As your live rock cures the algae and most all bad hitch hikers will die off that way. It will not effect your cycle and will help you aviod nasty algae outbreaks
If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
"Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info
so i got my live rock from a SW store cost more but worth it , it was tan with allot of light green so it looked better than the other, i have only 5 pounds in there now i will add 5 pounds of dry rock next month once its done curing.
he is the pic with my home made 32 5mm LED set up
i had an issue with my salt, it would completely dissolve all the way and i mean i shook the heck out of the 5 gallon jar let it sit for an hour and it did dissolve more, but there was still salt in the bottom, any ideas why? im using instant ocean and it was like a brick when i opened the bag.???
also my cheap power head has a air suction feature as it suck air from above tank and through the water stream , should i have this active so it blows bubbles to help aerate the water???
I wouldn't run air into the tank. No need for it. I would strongly recommend getting a cheap powerhead to stick in your bucket for mixing your salt. You really should mix your salt for 24hours before using it in your tank.
thanks for the advice i stopped the air, and i turned the lights off. im just worried about the salt level. :(
keep a close eye on it. Also, if I recall correctly you have a hydrometer, you need to have someone with a refractometer test your water, or they need to test a sample at a known salinity to find out how much that hydrometer is off so you know how to accurately read it. Swing-arm hydrometers are not very accurate at all, and need to be "calibrated" by the method I just mentioned. So, if you test a sample of water that is known to be 1.025, then whatever your hydrometer reads, you will know by just how much it is off. So, for example, if your hydrometer reads that sample as being 1.028, then you know you will have to subtract 0.003 from every reading you take with it to ensure you have an accurate reading.
yes, i only bought the hydro meter for budget buy but wasn't a good idea, how would you recommend the eBay ones? or what would you recommend?
Refractometers are not really that big a deal. Don't waste your money on the $200 models. The average $40-$50 model will be just as good. Just be sure you get one that can be calibrated.
that's next on my shopping list lol, but i called my LFS and they said they could test it with their refractometer (saltwater only shop), so im gonna take it their tonight. currently specs are
18hrs after setup
salinity:1.028- 7 gallons- going to add 2 gallons to it to try to dilute it if not, ill then do a water change, but i think the 2 gallons would off set it to get it to 1.023-.026- after i come back from the shop to see how far mine is off.
water temp is currently 76F its a bit low but, im placing a water heater in there to raise it to about 78f-80f- or is 76 good to cycle with?
my water is now clear so i think im heading in the right direction. but time will tell
76 is ok for cycling, but not ideal. You probably should get it up a couple of degrees.
2 gal of FW in that tank will drop the salinity more than you think. You add just 2 gal of FW to that tank and you will likely drop your salinity to below 1.020. As you said, have your hydrometer tested before you make any changes to the salinity.