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  1. Default how do you lower ammonia

    i have ammonia and i use tap water and i just did a big water change which
    killed a lot of filter bacteria and hence rasied the ammonia my tap has clorine
    and i dont have de clorinators

  2. #2

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    Default

    why are you starting a new thread to address a question we're answering in your previous thread?

    You need to go out and get a water conditioning product. There are plenty to chose from. They're not expensive. Go get one ASAP. Do water changes with conditioned water to lower your ammonia and allow your beneficial bacteria to recover.
    300 gallon mega tank: build in progress
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  3. #3

    Default

    Go to store if you have the cash and buy Tetra AquaSafe for about 2.99-3.99
    Then do large water change of 50%

    Can't get around it, water change is your best solution.

  4. Default

    WATER CHANGES!!! that is pretty much the only solution, take it from me.

    *~Don't find fault. Find a remedy~*
    *~"Fish are friends...NOT FOOD" :) ~*
    *~When in doubt, do a water change!~*


    R.I.P. Tigger


  5. #5

    Default Best ammonia remover

    The best ammonia REMOVER!, not neutralizer on the market is Aqua Sciences ChlorAm-X.(available as a liquid or a powder, I buy the powder) It removes chlorine/chloramines and ammonia. It is far superior to SeaChems Prime. Believe me I found out the hard way, I recently moved from a town that had wonderful artesian well water, a little high in pH and hardness but manageable. Did water changes for 40+ years never a problem, never had to check water, or add anything, then moved to a nearby town served by United Water Co(NNJ) with surface reservoirs. When my prized angelfish of all sizes started dying especially after large water changes, I discovered that my tap water had ammonia readings of, on a good day(rarely) 0.50ppm ammonia, to a more typical 1.0-1.5ppm to an outrageous level on some days of 4.0-5.0ppm, and pH levels of sometimes 8.8-9.0 which makes ammonia especially toxic I now have 160gl of pretreat vessels(32gl rubbermaid garbage pails) for my 22 tanks. I lost over $2000 of breeder angels and other various sizes. obviously you can treat a pail of water at a time if you so choose. I swear by this particular product(and it's sister product Ultimate). No I do not work for the Co! Hope this helps relaying my unfortunate story.Also looking in to RO units for the future.

  6. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by hollysangels
    The best ammonia REMOVER!, not neutralizer on the market is Aqua Sciences ChlorAm-X.(available as a liquid or a powder, I buy the powder) It removes chlorine/chloramines and ammonia. It is far superior to SeaChems Prime. Believe me I found out the hard way, I recently moved from a town that had wonderful artesian well water, a little high in pH and hardness but manageable. Did water changes for 40+ years never a problem, never had to check water, or add anything, then moved to a nearby town served by United Water Co(NNJ) with surface reservoirs. When my prized angelfish of all sizes started dying especially after large water changes, I discovered that my tap water had ammonia readings of, on a good day(rarely) 0.50ppm ammonia, to a more typical 1.0-1.5ppm to an outrageous level on some days of 4.0-5.0ppm, and pH levels of sometimes 8.8-9.0 which makes ammonia especially toxic I now have 160gl of pretreat vessels(32gl rubbermaid garbage pails) for my 22 tanks.
    You need something to neutralize, not remove, or your tank will never cycle.

    Odds are your water has chloramine which will read as ammonia on most test kits. Even if it is ammonia you still only want to neutralize it not completely remove it.
    Don't ask the question if you don't really want to know the answer
    Goldfish get HOW big?
    Cycling WITH Fish
    Cycling WITHOUT Fish

  7. Default

    so i think im gonna get the aquasafe would a place like walmart have that
    i never buy fish thier but i somtimes get food or gravel

  8. #8

    Default

    Prime is another good product to use. Its a dechlorinater and it will also make your ammoina less topic for your fish while still leaving it for your cycle
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  9. #9

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    Default

    Why are you doing water changes if you don't have any dechlorinator?
    Now that you've added water without treating it first, you have basically sent your tank back into cycling, if it was finished cycling at all.
    Make sure you start testing it for ammonia and nitrites every day and be prepared to do a lot more water changes while if finishes cycling or re-cycling, what ever the case may be. And don't forget to add dechlorinator to every water change!
    If it's called tourist season why can't I shoot them?
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.

    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.



  10. #10

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by fish4me98
    so i think im gonna get the aquasafe would a place like walmart have that
    i never buy fish thier but i somtimes get food or gravel
    Walmart should have Tetra AquaSafe. Yes.
    http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tetra-Aqua...38-oz/16935660
    Just found it on their site. So, definitely is on their shelves normally.

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