Aquarium Forum
 


Menu
  · Tropical Fish Home
· Fish News
· Aquarium Forum
· Buy & Sell
· Calculators
· Equipment reviews
· Free Aquarium Ebook
· Feedback
· Link to us
· Photo gallery
· Plant species
· Tropica Plant DB
Tropical fish species
· By Common name
· By Scientific name
Tropical Marine fish
· By Common name
· By Scientific name

_________________
 
      
        Via paypal

  AC news is a part of
      Nature Blog Network

      Reef Aquarium Blog

Privacy & Ad Policy

Articles
  · African Cichlids
· Algae Control
· Aquarium Decoration
· Aquarium Resources
· Aquatic Plants
· Barb Fish
· Betta Fish
· Breeding Fish
· Catfish
· Central American Cichlids
· Cichlids
· Clownfish
· Corals
· Corydoras Catfish
· Discus Fish
· Dwarf Cichlids
· Fish Diseases
· Frogs and Turtles
· Goby Fish
· Goldfish
· Gourami
· Invertebrates
· Jellyfish
· Killiefish
· Lake Victoria Cichlids
· Livebearers
· Malawi Cichlids
· Marine Aquariums
· Marine Aquarium Fish
· Other Fish
· Pleco
· Predatory Fish
· Photography
· Pond Fish
· Responsible Fish Keeping
· Rainbow Fish
· Shark Fish
· South American Cichlids
· Tanganyika Cichlids
· Tetra Fish
· Tropical Fish Food
Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 29
  1. #1

    Default Quarantining Marine Fish


    0 Not allowed!
    Lately Iíve been researching quarantine process a lot for marine fish, mostly to make sure the process that I have used is a good one. Almost all of this I got from other people and a few things I found on the internet. I want to describe the process that Iím using in hopes of getting some feedback or suggestions for improvement.

    During my research I was kind of shocked to learn that a large number of people that donít even perform a quarantine process. I never have really understood that. From my point of view, you want to QT fish because of: (just to name a few of the reasons):

    1) Protect / prevent the introduction of a disease into your main display tank
    2) Allow you time to observe and identify and potential diseases and treat it;
    3) Give the fish a chance to recover from any condition or disease
    4) Get the new fish on the right foods and nutrients, not all stores feed the best foods;
    5) Further acclimate wild caught fish to aquarium life without being bothered;
    6) Allow the fish to eat without having other tank mates taking the food away from them so they can build up their strength; and
    7) Allowing the fish to get over the stress of removal from the wild and/or shipping as well as any potential injures from those activities


    Equipment need for a marine quarantine tank (in no particular order)

    1)A proper sized tank. I read a lot of info that suggests a rule of thumb to use a tank that is about 3 or 4 gallons per inch of fish. As I typically buy younger, small fish, Iíve never had to worry about this yet.
    2)Filtration. The easiest (and likely the best) is to keep a sponge filter running on your main tank that you can just transfer over to the QT tank when needed. The sponge filter should be running on the main tank for about 3 weeks before being ready to be used in your QT tank
    3)A test kit, your standard one for: ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and PH
    4)A refactometer for testing salinity. I would stay away from the hydrometers with the plastic swing arm in them (I have found those to be inaccurate)
    5)A heater and thermometer
    6)Just enough lighting for your fish to find its food
    7)Some cave like structures for fish to hide in when they feel stressed
    8)Some decorations similar to your main tank to help the fish adapt after you transfer it to the main tank
    9)A appropriate sized powerhead for some gentile water movement.
    10)A on-hand supply of mixed, ready to use, salt water
    11) Some medications describe below

    If you are in the same situation as me, having only one SW LFS in town which is closed two days a week, you might want to keep some medications on hand to treat the more common problems. If you have access to a store that would carry these and be open at least 6 days a week, I would not bother to keep any meds on hand.

    Stress Guard: This will help to repair or replace the fish's mucous coating from damage that can sometimes occur when they are netted out of the holding tanks, or damage due to other injuries or diseases.

    Praziquantel: This can be added to regular fish food used for de-worming

    Beta Glucan: You can use this like a food additive. It will help boost the fishís immune system. It can be found at most people health food store

    Maracyn Two: This is used to treat many different types of bacterial infections. As this has a shelf life to consider, you have to be careful to make sure the amount you keep on hand is not expired.

    Cupramine: This is one of the best copper treatment medications. This can be used to treat either marine inch or marine velvet. This even can be used on the more sensitive marine fish and can be effective in half doses.

    Starting the QT

    1) Ensure all equipment is washed and cleaned (except for the sponge filter) before setting up the QT tank
    2) Fill the QT tank with water from your main tank
    3) Place the filter and all equipment in the tank
    4) Wait a hour and test all the parameters to make sure the tank is ready to go
    5) Keep the salinity, temperature, and PH the same as your main tank.
    6) If the fish going in the QT tank is a sand sifting fish, add a bowl of silica sand to the bottom of the tank
    7) Drip accumulate the new fish to the tank just like you would for fresh water fish
    8) Add your fish within 12 to 18 hours of setting up the tank provided the parameters are all in line

    While the QT tank is in use:

    1) Test the water parameters often. Some meds can affect the biological filtration in the QT tank
    2) When treating with copper, carefully watch your ammonia and nitrite levels for spikes. Copper can kill off the beneficial bacteria
    3) Add any de-wormers or other food additives you may want to use on the fish food you will be using
    4) Remove any un-eaten food a short while after feeding
    5) Complete weekly 50% (or more) water changes with newly made saltwater ( unless you have meds in the tank)
    6) Follow the water changing instructions on any meds when they are being used.
    7) Complete water changes to keep all levels in line (unless you have meds in the tank)
    8) Carefully observe your fish every day looking for signs of illness / disease or odd behavior
    9) Start any required treatments as soon as the symptoms are identified
    10) If no symptoms are noticed in your fish after 3 weeks or longer, you can add them to your main tank after dip acclimating them.
    11) If your fish was treated for any disease or sickness, wait until three weeks after all symptoms have cleared up before adding the fish to your main tank.
    12) Do not allow any of the water from the QT tank to be added to the main tank.
    13) Only use silica sand so it will not potentially interfere with any meds

    After Use

    1) if you are going to use the QT tank in the near future, you can keep it set-up and running by adding a few drops of ammonia daily or adding some food day (between 0.3 to 0.5 grams of frozen food pre 20 gallons of water). Just complete a 1005 water change with water from the main tank before adding your fish
    2) if you did not add many meds, you can return you sponge filter to the main tank. If you did use meds it would be best to dispose of the sponge and replace it in the main tank
    3) Wash all equipment
    4) Never return anything to your main tank if copper was used in any treatments in your QT tank

    Things you should not do:

    1) Donít assume you water parameters are OK, test often
    2) Donít use products in a QT tank that claim to instantly cycle a tank. Only Mother Nature can do that for you.
    3) Donít use live rock for filtration in the QT tank. Meds will get into the rock and be transferred into your main tank.
    4) Donít use carbon in a QT tank. It will remove any meds that are used
    5) Donít use products in a QT tank that claim to instantly cycle a tank. Only Mother Nature can do that for you.
    6) Donít place too many fish at once in your QT tank. Your biological filtration may not be able to keep up with a larger stocking at once, and you donít want to treat a lot of fish if only one of them is sick
    7) Don not allow any water or equipment from your QT to be returned to your display tank if a copper treatment was used.
    Last edited by Cliff; 04-13-2011 at 01:54 AM.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Awesome write-up Cliff. Just one thing I'm not understanding:

    10) If no symptoms are noticed in your fish after 3 weeks or longer, you can add them to your QT tank after dip acclimating them to the main tank.

    Did you mean "you can add them to the main tank after drip acclimating them"?

  3. #3

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Yup, just a typo

    I did this last night when I was having trouble sleeping (Wish I could use that excuse for the rest of my typing and spelling )
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  4. #4

    Smile Good write up


    0 Not allowed!
    Once again, thanks for the useful information. I copied and pasted into my documents for easy access if I ever need it!!
    Life is tough, it's even tougher if your stupid.

    If your not angry, your not paying attention...

    150G FWLR (Morays) 75G Fresh (Assrtd) 24G Cube (Reef/Goby) 10G Fresh (Beta)

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    11,694

    Awards Showcase

    for posting that article, I laughed so much!!!!!!!! - ScottishFish Kick back and enjoy the day when your done your painting - Cliff thanks for the rep! - EowynShieldmaiden Otis thanks you for the rep - Cliff This one will have a longer life span, sorry to hear about your fish - Cliff 
    For being a smarty pants and figuring out my riddle so fast! :) - escamosa The last one of these Ill ever give! Enjoy the AC bucks Rue! - smaug Yes, there is still a place in today's world for the  Darwin Awarads - Cliff Thanks for the Rep!!! :) - C-Dub Merry Christmas - Cliff 
    Merry Christmas Rue - jeffs99dime Holiday Ham has come today from the eve until Boxing Day! - Trillianne Merry Cristmas and Happy Holidays Rue. - Strider199 It's a Christmas Bunny, Merry Christmas. - gadget228 lol, thanks for the rep.  Have one on me! =] - KevinVA 
    Merry Christmas - Cliff Thanks!  You have a great holiday season as well! - sheamurai Merry Christmas - gadget228 What is a good Holiday Ham to do, but bring some cheer to my good friend Rue! - Trillianne Just Because - Surfdog 
    Aphasia - Asthma/Allergies - Brain Cancer - Brain Tumors - Diabetes - Mental Illness - Rue Eating Disorders - Esophageal Cancer - Gastroesophageal Reflux Disease - Irritable Bowel Syndrome - Pulmonary Hypertension - Rue 

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Excellent! Very thorough!
    55 g Goldfish Tank - 5 Fancies, 2 Dojos
    25 g Tropical Tank - Celestial Pearl Danio/Mixed

  6. #6

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Awesome write up Cliff

    Now correct me if I'm wrong, but I always heard there are a few fish you shouldn't QT, either due to their diets or other things. The biggest ones that come to mind are mandarins, because of their pod diet they may starve in qt. They also have a pretty thick slime coat which protects them from most parasites and illness

    29 gallon-planted community

    20 long frag tank
    75 gal-planted goldfish

    75 gallon mixed reef with 20 gallon sump






  7. #7

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    That's a good point. I've never had a mandarin (yet ) so I didn't think of that.

    I havenít really looked into mandarins too much yet as I know they need a well seasoned tank as most of them need a lot of pods in the tank for their diet. I wanted to wait a few months before giving a mandarin some serious thought. My tank has only been up and running for around 6 months now so a few more months would be playing it safe. Mandarins would not do well in a QT tank at all

    I have read a lot of conflicting information about certain tangs, like the hippo and achilles tangs. A lot of people say they are very prone to ick and the stress of the move into and out of a QT tank will cause more problems than it will prevent. Most say itís better just to add them directly to the display tank but Iím not sold on that idea yet. I believe as long as they have some hiding places to go when they feel stressed, they should be OK. But I donít know that for a fact yet.

    I havenít been able to sort through the BS from the fact on that yet so Iíve been playing it safe and stayed away from those tangs until I could research those fish in more detail.

    Was there any other fish that should not be QTíd that you are aware of ?
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I think most people locally avoid quarantining wrasses too since they also have a thick slime coat

    29 gallon-planted community

    20 long frag tank
    75 gal-planted goldfish

    75 gallon mixed reef with 20 gallon sump






  9. #9

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    For many fish I have kept over the years which do have a thicker slime coat and special diet requirements I do a dip on them. Usually I mix up a dose of Prazi/Metro and use it while I drip acclimate them to the tank. I leave them in the medicated water full strength for about an hour before starting to drip tank water, this lowers the concentration until they are in pure tank water. It will give you some prevention against internal parasites before adding them to the tank without compromising a fish that is probably healthy anyway. Marines typically show signs of illness much faster than freshwater fish, if anything is off for a marine they typically wont eat. I also dont buy a marine fish without seeing it eat at the shop

    Excellent write up!
    20G High-Tech Planted|50G High-Tech Planted|50G Goldfish Tank|56G Column Low-Tech Planted

    4x75Gs coming soon

  10. #10

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks guys

    MCHRKiller, Thanks for the pointers in treating in the bag before acclimating. That's a great idea if you cen't QT a fish. I also wait a day or two before taking a fish home form the store. I usally ask the store to feed them before I buy the fish as well.
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •