chloramine

**fishlessintx** · 03-01-2011, 02:20 AM

So, while I'm waiting for my tank to cycle, I'll try to learn more. :)

So, I have chloramine in my water and I have API water conditioner. The directions re me how to dose to break the bond. I assume the chlorine will then evaporate but what about the ammonia. Do I just let the BB take care of it? Looks like I'll have between. 5 and 1ppm after I do a water change just from my tap water.

Am I understanding this stuff right?

**mermaidwannabe** · 03-01-2011, 02:44 AM

As a water conditioner, I would assume the API brand would neutralize both chlorine and chloramine. Any decent water conditioner will take care of both.

As for ammonia, your tank is still cycling. The BB will eventually convert the ammonia to nitrite, and then to nitrate. When BB is sufficient to convert it to nitrate, and your nitrates drop to zero or near-zero, you tank will have cycled. This usually takes several weeks.

-- mermaidwannabe

**funkman262** · 03-01-2011, 05:07 AM

You could always just use Kordon's Amquel+ which detoxifies both chlorine and chloramine as well as all nitrogenous compounds, making the water safe for fish while leaving the ammonia available for the bacteria to consume.

**jetajockey** · 03-01-2011, 05:16 AM

Prime is another good water conditioner to use. Note that these water conditioners just temporarily detoxify ammonia, after about 48 hours they revert back. This is why its important to do frequent water changes during the cycling period.

**Honey Badger 1** · 03-01-2011, 06:04 AM

i think she is doing a fishless cycle, so no water changes will be needed.
my tap water often has ammonia in it, i have tested up to 1ppm at certain times of the year. during these times i change my water change schedule from one large change a week, to two smaller ones each week. since my tank is fully cycled and mature, any ammonia i put in with the tap water is quickly converted. but i don't want to add too much at any given time as it will stress the fish.

**Lady Hobbs** · 03-01-2011, 10:34 AM

I'm not seeing if you are cycling with fish in the tank or doing a fishless cycle.

Please read the links in my signature and that may clear up some questions for you on cycling.

All the conditioners I have found on the market now remove chlorine and chloramines but if in doubt, read the label.

**Honey Badger 1** · 03-01-2011, 11:30 AM

i was basing my fishless cycle comment on this thread, http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=74250

**dbosman** · 03-01-2011, 08:57 PM

Seachem Prime is a better bargain.
API makes two water conditioners for removing chlorine and chloramines.

Here is their boiler plate.

Ammo Lock instantly detoxifies ammonia and removes chlorine and chloramine in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. By eliminating ammonia stress, this product protects healthy gill function in fish. One dose will instantly detoxify 3.0 ppm of ammonia and remove 4.0 ppm of chlorine or 2.0 ppm of chloramine. Ammo lock doesn't remove ammonia. In converts ammonia to a non-toxic form. So test kits will still show positive for ammonia. A positive ammonia test after 7 days may indicate overfeeding or overstocking. The biological filter of the aquarium will consume the non-toxic form of ammonia, converting it first to nitrite than to nitrate. For aquarium use only. API Stress Coat: Stress Coat forms a synthetic slime coating on the skin of fish, replacing the natural secretion of slime that is lost during netting, handling, shipping, fighting and other forms of stress. Stress Coat is a water conditioner suitable for fresh and salt water aquariums, water gardens and ponds. Stress Coat contains Aloe Vera, which acts as a liquid bandage, to protect and heal damaged fish tissue. Stress Coat instantly removes chlorine and heavy metals such as copper and zinc from tap water. Stress Coat also removes chloramines by breaking the chlorine-ammonia bond.