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  1. #21

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Southeast Texas
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    Here's to good games tomorrow ;-) - steeler58   Thanks for the rep ;-) - steeler58   My fish say Thank You - KoryKat   Thanks for the Rep ;-) - steeler58   Enjoy your weekend my friend - Taurus   
    Troop and Military Support - Amber Alert - Bladder Cancer - Endometriosis - Equality - Liver Cancer - Liver Disease - Missing Children - POW/MIA - Spina Bifida - Suicide - steeler58   Breast Cancer - Birth Parents - steeler58   Cancer - Epilepsy - Foster Care - Gynecological Cancer - Rett Syndrome - aquariumlover10   Cancer - Epilepsy - Foster Care - Gynecological Cancer - Rett Syndrome - gronlaura   Breast Cancer - Birth Parents - SeaLady   

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    0 Not allowed!
    Knowing absolutely zilch about SW fishkeeping, I'm assuming that one of these things coming into contact with human flesh would be a most unfortunate experience, correct?

    Can it harm other creatures in the tank?...about how big is it now?...is it best to remove these things when you see them?...how big can it get?
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal
    40 Gallon Breeder: ... Journal
    29 Gallon: ... Journal

    “If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went” - Will Rogers

  2. #22

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Tampa, FL
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

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    1 Not allowed!
    Yes, contact with the bristles of this one wouldn't be fun. I've gotten 'bristled' before by the smaller variety (their bristles are about 1mm) and at worse those caused minor skin irritation/itchiness for perhaps a day. The bristles on this one appear to be just under 7mm-8mm. I don't think it is a fireworm (which toxic bristles inflict a painful sting and nausea).

    It seems to be able to contract and expand its length. It looks to be 7"-8" as a minimum/~9" max (most, but not all, of its length can be seen in the 2nd photo with black ruler for rough comparison), but it can contract down to 5", which was the length it assumed beneath the shell the other day; it's about a half-inch thick. Apparently more bio-mass than my fish which are 2.5"-3.5".

    Like most other bristleworms, it seems to be a detritivore/scavenger. It appears to be harmless (as long as I don't come in contact with it); were it the harmful type/fireworm (which can eat corals & other invertebrates) there would have been signs of that long ago.
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Southeast Texas
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    Latest gifts & ribbons:

    Here's to good games tomorrow ;-) - steeler58   Thanks for the rep ;-) - steeler58   My fish say Thank You - KoryKat   Thanks for the Rep ;-) - steeler58   Enjoy your weekend my friend - Taurus   
    Troop and Military Support - Amber Alert - Bladder Cancer - Endometriosis - Equality - Liver Cancer - Liver Disease - Missing Children - POW/MIA - Spina Bifida - Suicide - steeler58   Breast Cancer - Birth Parents - steeler58   Cancer - Epilepsy - Foster Care - Gynecological Cancer - Rett Syndrome - aquariumlover10   Cancer - Epilepsy - Foster Care - Gynecological Cancer - Rett Syndrome - gronlaura   Breast Cancer - Birth Parents - SeaLady   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    So, live and let live, I guess...thanks for the info
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal
    40 Gallon Breeder: ... Journal
    29 Gallon: ... Journal

    “If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went” - Will Rogers

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Tampa, FL
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

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    1 Not allowed!
    This update will fall into the category (further exacerbated by the fact that due to photobucket's policy change all of my previous pics are no longer visible); so this is just a data update.

    I entered the saltwater/reefing side of the hobby in the summer of 2006 (45gal) and upgraded to a 65gal in the autumn of that same year; I started this thread back in 2011, but never kept up with it.

    Changes to my sump-less 65gal reef since 2011:

    LIGHTING
    In 2012 I transitioned from the Aquactinics TX5 T5HO/198-watt unit (five 39 watt T5HO bulbs) to a Maxspect Razor/R420R 160-watt 16000K LED fixture in 2012, which is bracketed 6" above the tank top.

    Photo-period: 12:30-23:00 (peak illumination period 15:00-20:30)

    Channel A (daylight spectrums) 13:30-21:30 (ramp-up from 1% 13:30-15:00; max 55% from 15:00-20:30; ramp-down from 55% to 0% 20:30-21:30).

    Channel B (blue spectrums) 12:30-23:00 (ramp-up from 1% 12:30-15:00; max 74% from 15:00-20:30; ramp-down from 74% to 0% 20:30-23:00).
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

  5. #25

    Join Date
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

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    0 Not allowed!
    FILTRATION: Only change over the years was that I ditched the canister and changed protein skimmer model.

    Protein Skimmer: In 2013, I replaced the Reef Octopus BH-800S Hang on Back (HOB) protein skimmer with the BH-2000 HOB model, (rated for 100-200gal tank). Wasn't really a big fan of the pump-inside-the-skimmer configuration of the BH-800S. Maintenance was a pain.

    Chemical Filtration: I still use Dual Phosban Reactors (HOB). With a Cobalt MJ1200 powerhead/pump, water is drawn from the tank and through Reactor 1, which contains granular ferric oxide (GFO) (I'm currently using Rowaphos, but am not picky on the brand) for phosphate adsorption. The outflow of Reactor 1 then feeds into Reactor 2 (which contains high grade small particle lignite carbon to enhance water quality and counter the effect of allelopathy (coral chemical warfare)). The water is then returned into the tank. I have about a 2" depth of media in each reactor. (I previously used a larger quantity of media but have scaled back on the amount of media.

    Mechanical filtration: None. I no longer use the Filstar XP2 Canister filter with 50-micron filter pads.

    Biologic Filtration:
    Live Rock (~60-80+lbs of live rock, I can't recall exact amount. Little to no change here.
    Live sand bed (depth 3"-4") (no change).

    Sump-less configuration:
    No change. Overflow intake box still magnetically attached inside the tank for surface skimming. Positioned in this overflow intake box are:
    - HOB protein skimmer in-take
    - APEX controller temperature and pH probes
    - reactor out put
    - alkalinity doser out put
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

  6. #26

    Join Date
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    Tampa, FL
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Water Parameters and Properties (Part 1):

    Phosphate: Consistently at undetectable levels. Tested bi-monthly/~quarterly with a Martini Mi-412 Phosphate/(Low Range) photometer (measurement range: 0.00-2.50ppm).

    Nitrate: Consistently at undetectable levels. I test with a API Nitrate test kit no more than once or twice a year. An established colony of third-stage marine beneficial bacteria within the live rock and sand bed converts nitrate into nitrogen. Tank has small bioload (65gal tank with three small fish, small pinch of food once a day, corals fed every week or two).

    Nitrite & Ammonia: Never test for.

    Alkalinity: (solution comprised of about 1.125 cup of baking soda/sodium bicarbonate to 1 gal of RO/DI water). 40ml of this alkalinity solution added daily using a doser. About 0.83ml automatically dosed every 30min (at a slow a 1.8ml/per min dose rate) to keep up with carbonate consumption by the stony corals. dkH maintained in 7.5-9 range. Tested every 7-10 days with Salifert Alkalinity test kit.

    Calcium: (solution comprised of about 2.5 cups of calcium chloride to 1 gal of RO/DI water). I manually add 1/3 cup about every 3 days. Calcium maintained in the 420-450ppm range. Tested every 7-10 days with Salifert Calcium test kit.

    Magnesium: (solution comprised 5 cups magnesium chloride & 3 cups magnesium sulfate to 1 gal of RO/DI water). I manually add 1/4 cup of this week. Magnesium maintained 1300-1350ppm, keeping up with coral consumption. Tested every 7-10 days with Salifert Magnesium test kit.

    Potassium: Tested at irregular intervals with Salifert Potassium Test kit, 400ppm.

    Auto Top-Off (ATO) with Kalkwasser: 8 gal ATO reservoir. 1 gal kalkwasser ('kalk') comprise of 2 tsp of calcium hydroxide per 1 gal of RO/DI water. Sometimes I go as low as 5gal of kalk with the remaining 3gal being RO/DI. I use an Avast pressure-switch controlled ATO using an Air-Lifter pump to keep up with water lost from evaporation. The kalk delivers additional calcium, alkalinity and pH to the reef.
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

  7. #27

    Join Date
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

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    0 Not allowed!
    Water Parameters and Properties (Part 2):


    Temperature Control: I still a fan (6" Air King) for evaporative cooling which streams air across the water surface of this uncovered tank. Using an Apex Controller, the fan is configured to engage when the water temperature reaches 78F/26C and disengage when it reaches 76.5F/25C. In the summer months, I tend to lose 1 gal per day due to evaporative cooling. I do not use a heater.

    Circulation: The Koralia 3 (850 gph) and a Koralia Evolution 1050 (1050gph) which I had in 2011 where eventually replaced by two Sicce Voyager 3 (each 1200 gph) Stream Pumps; both configurations were augmented by the aforementioned XP2 canister (~250gph). All of this was replaced with a Maxijet Gyre/XF-230 (max 2300 gph). The gyre presents a entirely different type of flow to the tank when compared to the powerheads/stream pumps I used, as it moves all of the water in the tank.

    The flow patterns that I am currently using range between 20%-60%, and alternate between various pulse/wave and random flow, alternating every hour, incremental flow ramp up from 20% (midnight) 60% at around 4pm for the incremental ramp down. When I first set it up I initially had it set to 30%; at that setting for the first couple of days the Gyre evicted all sorts of detritus from the sandbed and rocks in the water column; the amount of matter surprised me since the two Voyager 3's and XP2 2650gph of flow.

    Interestingly, after switching to the Gyre, all of my mushroom corals for some reason (excluding my elephant ear) have significantly expanded in size. While they're all not uniformly sized, the average surface area increased from, say, a medicine or tylenol container cap, to that of a dental floss container (hard to put in words since those are standardized; I wish I had some before and after shots). Essentially, they 'shrink' down to their old sizes at night.

    Water Changes: Previously, for years I used to do fairly large water changes...anywhere from one-third every 3 weeks to 45-50% every month and a half. (I think 10% weekly is the 'general' norm for reef tanks).

    Starting last summer I have switched to doing daily micro-water changes: 1 gallon daily of a 65gal tank. I'm primarily doing this as a measure against essential and/or trace element depletion, not for waste exportation. In three months of doing this the coloration of my euphyllia polyps, pocillopora tissue bounced back. The coloration of my trachyphyllia intensified as well (it appeared to be in the early stages of bleaching or something which I contributed to light deprivation due shaded position under my frogspawn colony.

    The shift to daily micro-water change regimen was initially an experiment before resorting to chemical additives, particularly since there is no way (from my understanding) to overdose anything with a tiny water change. With some additives there can be a thin line between meeting and overdosing the requirement (or fueling nuisance algae, etc).

    Salinity: Target salinity: 1.027 specific gravity; checked with a refractometer aperiodically.

    Water preparation:
    RO/DI: I use multi-staged Reverse Osmosis/De-Ionized (RO/DI) water system for the production of salt water and ATO; as well as for making the calcium, alkalinity, magnesium solutions and kalk. I make and store salt water using Instant Ocean's Reef Crystals in a 44 gallon brute container and two powerheads for mixing and circulation.
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

  8. #28

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Tampa, FL
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Fish:
    No change from the first post, these same fish have been in the tank since the beginning in 2006: 1x royal gramma, 2x azure damsels. Still feeding New Life Spectrum pellets (Small Fish formula); though I feed them practically now rather than once every 3 days.

    Clean Up Crew (CUC):
    Over the years I let my CUC dwindle away in number. I didn't replace snails or hermits for some years. I was down to about 1 or 2 hermit crabs which survived the years. In 2016, in a last ditch effort in my fight against dinoflagelletes I revamped by CUC population. (I'll write about my multi-year battle with dinoflagelletes and the affect CUC may have had on it in a later post). Currently I am down to a handful of hermits and a lesser quantity of algae eating snails, and perhaps a single nassarius snail (tackles detritus and left overs).

    Corals:
    (bold=10+ years in my tank)

    Soft Corals: zoanthids, palythoa's (of the hitch hiking variety), pulsating xenia, tubipora, green star polyps, various mushrooms, green elephant ear mushroom, toadstool leathers; clove polyps.

    LPS Corals: candy cane, torch, frogspawn, blastomussa, war coral, leptastrea, trachyphyllia, lobophyllia, acanathastrea, possible euphylia hybrid (frogspawn x hammer), pectinia).

    SPS Corals (hydnophora, plating and encrusting montipora, birdnest, pocillopora; stylophora, acropora).

    Corals are fed every 1-3 weeks a liquid soup comprised of a mixture of: reef roids, reef chili, vitamin c, amino acids, reef snow, multi-size zoo plankton; food applied manually to as many polyps as possible with an eye dropper.
    Last edited by kaybee; 03-18-2018 at 06:16 PM.
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

  9. #29

    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Tampa, FL
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    My tank reef tank over the years.

    August 2006
    45gal27aug06.jpg

    Not yet a reef, this was my first saltwater tank, picture probably taken soon after being set up.
    45gal tank with live rock and live sand acquired from a fellow hobbyist exiting the hobby.

    Illuminated by PC lighting, two maxjijet 1200 powerheads for circulation. The red objects at the far right and left-center were macro algae which came with the rocks. The macro-algae didn't last long as my first clean up crew (specifically the emerald crabs) made short work of it). The brownish object at the far left on the rocks is an aiptasia, a pest anemone, which I removed from the tank before it had a chance to reproduce
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

  10. #30

    Join Date
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    for a fellow front lover - sailor   All the saltwater help! - squirt_12   Thanks! - squirt_12   For the million fish man - Lady Hobbs   Excellent puffer advice. - Brookfish   

    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    November 2006
    45gal17nov06.jpg

    Because my live rock and live sand came from an established tank, the tank was pretty much cycled, I added fish in September 2006 and some 'starter corals' (zoanthids, candy cane coral, mushrooms, and ricordea from what I can see). Officially a reef!

    There is also a euphyllia sp. (which I thought was e. cristata but remains unknown 'til this day) and frogspawn. I ended up losing the frogspawn probably due to inexperience at maintaining proper water parameters. Belonging to the same genus, the euphylia sp. is still in my tank.

    The royal gramma and azure damsel in this shot are are also in my tank today.

    It looks like I added a remora HOB protein skimmer and an HOB filter (???). The pump at top center was part of a HOB refugium that I had at the time. Green nuisance algae started to appear as it often does in newly set up tanks.
    Last edited by kaybee; 08-02-2018 at 12:34 AM.
    African cichlid and saltwater aquariums

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