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Results 11 to 20 of 52
  1. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by kingkarter
    LPG is lumens pre gallon. Most ppl still go by WPG but like the one inch per gallon rule the WPG rule is wrong to. Here this will explane it better then i can http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/fo...ad.php?t=73446 yes ik it by mfk but its something they did get right lol.
    LPG would be ever more useless than WPG maybe you mean PPG (which is par per gallon but even then par depends on depth so it doesnt work, plants use par not lumens.)

    there have been a few discussions about this exact thing and comparing WPG to the one inch rule is apples to oranges. and it always ends in there is not an exact rule to tell you what you need because everytank is different and there is too many factors. getting to the core of it if the light grows plants, its a good light and WPG or PAR dont matter as long as somethings growing, but WPG is a good rule to approximate the lighting you may need rather than trial and error

  2. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by flydustydawg
    Hey I have the light I was supposed to give u with the tank. It's only 36 long though and is just the single bulb. It wouldn't be good for planted. If u still want it pick it up next time you come. I can bring it home too.

    I had a two bulb t 8 light on it. It worked well for low light plants. You are going to want to test your water often if u let that filter dry out. I know u put Tue sand and stuff from your other tank, but u still might have some spikes in your water parameters.
    I din't use the sand from the othere tank because im going to keep it set up so i can get anothere betta. I did use every thing else though. Ive been watching the water parameter and no spikes so far but im still going test often for the next week or so


    Quote Originally Posted by flydustydawg
    You should have your other HOB filter running along with the new one to help cycle the tank.
    I put it on last night

    Quote Originally Posted by Brhino
    how confident are you feeling about that table? Granted I can't see the bottom of it what I can see doesn't look like the beefiest structure ever made.
    It's works pretty good
    Last edited by kingkarter; 01-18-2011 at 09:40 PM.

  3. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by KatzeSlaugen
    LPG would be ever more useless than WPG maybe you mean PPG (which is par per gallon but even then par depends on depth so it doesnt work, plants use par not lumens.)

    there have been a few discussions about this exact thing and comparing WPG to the one inch rule is apples to oranges. and it always ends in there is not an exact rule to tell you what you need because everytank is different and there is too many factors. getting to the core of it if the light grows plants, its a good light and WPG or PAR dont matter as long as somethings growing, but WPG is a good rule to approximate the lighting you may need rather than trial and error
    I guess i got confused when i read it.

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Brhino
    how confident are you feeling about that table? Granted I can't see the bottom of it what I can see doesn't look like the beefiest structure ever made.
    I built the stand and it is pretty sturdy. It is sturdier than it looks. I had the tank on there for about 3 months.

    I would really worry about the cycle in this tank. You might not have saved enough of the BB to keep it stable. If the filter I sold you dried out it would have lost a lot of BB. Also if you dont have a filter or any ammonia source on your other tank it will lose its cycle any way.

    I know I did my 125 similar to what you are doing, but I saved a lot more of the BB. I put both the HOB filters from my 55 on it and mixed the old media with the new media in the new canister filters. Also I used all the water from my 55 and all the rock from my 65 (witch is well over 100lbs). I also used all the sand from my 55. So have the substrate is from the 55.

    Just keep a very close eye on your water levels. Test them at least every other day. If you start having problems test everyday. I would also suggest getting an API master test kit. It works better and saves you $$$ in the long run. Dont add any more fish for a couple weeks at least with out any ammonia, NO2 or NO3 spikes.
    Empty 10g
    20g figure 8 puffer
    65g FW Community
    125g African Cichlid community

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Here are my water parmeter stats since ive had it set

    NO3 about 10 or 15 ppm

    NO2 0 ppm

    PH about 8.2 ppm

    They have been the same every day i have tested so far.

    The test kit i have atm does not test ammonia so i orderd a API mast test kit to day.

  6. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I'd be very worried about that stand to be honest. It needs some sort of bracing around the middle of the legs to stop them splitting outwards. Very scary stand!
    Fiiiiiiiiiiissssshhhhhh!

  7. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    It wouldn't be a bad idea to add a brace on both ends from leg to leg. I have extra stain u can use. It would only take about a half hour. I could do it for u if u wanted. I'm going to be wrapping my stand soon Ill just make the pieces for it then.
    Empty 10g
    20g figure 8 puffer
    65g FW Community
    125g African Cichlid community

  8. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Ok thats would be fine. I was planning on wrapping mine soon to. If you Want to make the pieces That would be great.

  9. Default Load Warning


    0 Not allowed!
    My tank is cycled now so i went to are lfs and bought some fish by some i mean 13 . But dont worry i din't put them all in the my 55g. They will be going in there though but not yet.


    Pic time







  10. Default


    0 Not allowed!








    I finley got some BGRS!!!!

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