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  1. #1

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    Default Any mechanics on here???


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm fairly handy around a car, but this is driving me nuts! Rather than re-explain everything here...I will just post a link to the Auto forum that I joined. You would think they would know something about a car and it's electrical components??? Guess not?

    Either way I think I have it narrowed down to either the alternator/regulator (they are one untit on my car) or the battery. I have a suspicion that the alternator is overcharging the battery causing it to fail as well. It's going to get tested this afternoon.

    Any thoughts guys/gals?

    http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.ph...55676&t=155676

    Thanks!
    -Jordan
    Gar connaisseur

    Predatory Tank:
    20" Tropical Gar, 18" Florida Gar, 20" Longnose Gar,
    17" Ornate Bichir, 25" Silver Arowana, 16" Bowfin, 15" Giant Gourami

    16" Male Dovii

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2010
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Go to bobistheoilguy.com in the Mechanical /Maintenance Forum and ask there That is where I find most of my imfo But it sounds like bad connections or to small of diameter wires Good luck
    http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...oard=23&page=1

  3. #3

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm a vehicle electrician bud and I can easily see why you've struggled to get an answer.

    Without knowing what voltages you are getting and at what points it would be impossible to say whats going on.

    My gut instinct is that you have a bad earth though.

    Can you get or have you got a cheap volt meter or multi meter?

    chris
    Used to try and keep track of my fish here.....

    Ran out of room and time!!!

    Instead I'll tell you the best piece of fishkeeping equipment ever....... Algae Scrubber :)

  4. #4

    Join Date
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Do you have a voltmeter on that car? or have a voltmeter at your place?

    why do you think its overcharging the battery when it clicks at start up?
    thats low voltage and id replace the alternator before the battery. Everything sounds like a low voltage issue. if the battery was overcharging and leaking you would have a hole in your trunk where the battery used to me.

    I do not hold the title anymore but was an ASE certified master mechanic from 03-06, previously worked on combat vehicles 10K and under for the Us army.

    Replace your serp belt while you are at it.

    also why do you not have a sealed battery back there? do you have a firewall between the trunk and rear seat?

  5. #5

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    the alternator can overcharge the battery, but IIRC it takes a while with a bad alternator for that to happen

    if in doubt, just get a junkyard alternator and swap it with yours and see what happens. should be cheap and most junkyards will let you get credit for anything you take back so if its not the alternator you can still get credit. then it can be narrowed down, it could be the ignition switch as well.

    didnt have time to read everything but does it not start more often on hot starts? if so it could be the distributor as well

  6. #6

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Heavy duty mechanic for over 12 years

    the clicking could indicate a loose connection at your battery positive terminal or it could indicate a crappy ground.
    pull all grounding straps off and clean the mating surfaces of the strap and the body/block.

    if You moved the battery to the trunk you may also have A. used the wrong gauge wire and Amperage cannot flow B. the wire itself may have internal resistances inside it causing it to not fire full Amps from battery to the starter motor C. because the wire is now longer than normal you could be losing voltage to carry amperage to the starter.
    alternators play no part in the starting, only charging and maintaining, if the battery were overcharging you would have a really strong smell in there due to gassing, you would also have very low battery fluid levels over a period of time
    you do need to check the diode pack on the back of the Alternator and the voltage regulator, also do a current draw test, if you have a multimeter i can pm you details how to do this, all you need is a couple of cheap multimeters.

    just an addition, you may have a cell gone down in the battery which will not show up in a test unless you have a drop tester, testing specific gravity wont work as your testing the capacity of the plates not the over-all battery
    Last edited by promise; 10-12-2010 at 04:56 PM.
    16 tanks and counting

    The more i look at your tank the more i want your tank in my tank!
    Chris

  7. #7

    Join Date
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    The battery is unsealed because that is what was sold to me for this model car as a replacement. Also...why would it burn a hole in the trunk if it's in an appropriate battery box? A firewall? All of the new cobalts come with the battery in the trunk - stock. To my knowledge they have the same back seats I have and no firewall.

    The car starts, but it acts funny and it is slow turning over. When the car has not been run and is cool...It starts much faster. The battery in the car now is just over a year old and when i checked the levels it was down about an inch or more (w/ about 1/4" of the coils being exposed). There was fluid on the sides of the battery and in the battery box. To me...there must be something linked to the battery causing it to overcharge?

    The alternator and battery are only my guess. I am having them tested at the parts store in a couple of hours. If they check out ok, then I will look at my power and grounds for a third time. The ground connection was my original concern too, but I cleaned it and reconnected it with a new cable just like it was for the last 4-5 years. never had a problem before this.

    Thanks for the input so far guys. I will be sure to post the test results.
    -Jordan
    Gar connaisseur

    Predatory Tank:
    20" Tropical Gar, 18" Florida Gar, 20" Longnose Gar,
    17" Ornate Bichir, 25" Silver Arowana, 16" Bowfin, 15" Giant Gourami

    16" Male Dovii

  8. #8

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    If it is slow to crank when cold i would be looking at the cables, any corrosion in the length of wire from battery to starter will cause an internal resistance, did you check the tightness of the cable at the starter positive terminal aswell as the ground there??

    sorry to ask silly questions as im sure you have checked these but to me it sounds as the above and what i would look for on any of my customers vehicles.
    16 tanks and counting

    The more i look at your tank the more i want your tank in my tank!
    Chris

  9. #9

    Join Date
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    thought you needed a gift :) - arkie   for a fellow front lover - sailor   this is the biggest fish they have!! - The Red Severum   For making me smile with your Arow story. - Brookfish   Happy Holidays! - Northernguy   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by promise
    Heavy duty mechanic for over 12 years

    the clicking could indicate a loose connection at your battery positive terminal or it could indicate a crappy ground.
    pull all grounding straps off and clean the mating surfaces of the strap and the body/block.

    if You moved the battery to the trunk you may also have A. used the wrong gauge wire and Amperage cannot flow B. the wire itself may have internal resistances inside it causing it to not fire full Amps from battery to the starter motor C. because the wire is now longer than normal you could be losing voltage to carry amperage to the starter.
    alternators play no part in the starting, only charging and maintaining, if the battery were overcharging you would have a really strong smell in there due to gassing, you would also have very low battery fluid levels over a period of time
    you do need to check the diode pack on the back of the Alternator and the voltage regulator, also do a current draw test, if you have a multimeter i can pm you details how to do this, all you need is a couple of cheap multimeters.

    just an addition, you may have a cell gone down in the battery which will not show up in a test unless you have a drop tester, testing specific gravity wont work as your testing the capacity of the plates not the over-all battery
    Thanks Promise.

    I have had the battery relocated to the trunk for about 4-5 years now (since the first year I had the car...brand new) and have never had a problem linked to that. The car starts fine...when It has enough juice. When the car is at idle things seem fine. As I increase rpms I begin getting error messages and lights/guages begin to flicker and go crazy. this is what leads me to believe that my regulator is not working correctly causing the battery to be overcharged by the alternator. Would this be a reasonable thought?

    Thanks again!
    -Jordan
    Gar connaisseur

    Predatory Tank:
    20" Tropical Gar, 18" Florida Gar, 20" Longnose Gar,
    17" Ornate Bichir, 25" Silver Arowana, 16" Bowfin, 15" Giant Gourami

    16" Male Dovii

  10. #10

    Join Date
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    thought you needed a gift :) - arkie   for a fellow front lover - sailor   this is the biggest fish they have!! - The Red Severum   For making me smile with your Arow story. - Brookfish   Happy Holidays! - Northernguy   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by promise
    If it is slow to crank when cold i would be looking at the cables, any corrosion in the length of wire from battery to starter will cause an internal resistance, did you check the tightness of the cable at the starter positive terminal aswell as the ground there??

    sorry to ask silly questions as im sure you have checked these but to me it sounds as the above and what i would look for on any of my customers vehicles.
    It is slow to start when warm and starts normally when cold.

    I have checked all connections and runs of wire associated with the relocation. The inconsistency of the problem is what is so baffling. I can drive it fo 20 minutes with no issues, then it will completely throw a fit backing out of the stall.
    -Jordan
    Gar connaisseur

    Predatory Tank:
    20" Tropical Gar, 18" Florida Gar, 20" Longnose Gar,
    17" Ornate Bichir, 25" Silver Arowana, 16" Bowfin, 15" Giant Gourami

    16" Male Dovii

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