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Results 11 to 20 of 44
  1. #11

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    0 Not allowed!
    Yeah it could be an over voltage to the ECM as these work on milli-volts an overcharging alternator or malfunctioning diode trio and voltage regulator could cause this.

    get them to do a ground test and an output test when you go to the dealer today this will tell you if indeed it is the alternator.
    16 tanks and counting

    The more i look at your tank the more i want your tank in my tank!
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  2. #12

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Demjor19
    The battery is unsealed because that is what was sold to me for this model car as a replacement. Also...why would it burn a hole in the trunk if it's in an appropriate battery box? A firewall? All of the new cobalts come with the battery in the trunk - stock. To my knowledge they have the same back seats I have and no firewall.

    The car starts, but it acts funny and it is slow turning over. When the car has not been run and is cool...It starts much faster. The battery in the car now is just over a year old and when i checked the levels it was down about an inch or more (w/ about 1/4" of the coils being exposed). There was fluid on the sides of the battery and in the battery box. To me...there must be something linked to the battery causing it to overcharge?

    The alternator and battery are only my guess. I am having them tested at the parts store in a couple of hours. If they check out ok, then I will look at my power and grounds for a third time. The ground connection was my original concern too, but I cleaned it and reconnected it with a new cable just like it was for the last 4-5 years. never had a problem before this.

    Thanks for the input so far guys. I will be sure to post the test results.
    Because of the acidity, I had a lexus SC400 in the shop a few years back, someway somehow the battery exploded and caused the front half of the car to pretty much go bye bye, all electrical and plastic was gone, insulation(carpet and underlayment), lights ect.

    this happened on my drag car as well. battery like yours was leaking (it was in the back, firewalled,boxed NHRA safety certified) and obviously rarely checked the battery, it ate thru the box, the rhino liner and down thru the truck bed floor itself. it was not fun.

    Im not sure why they sold you a battery like that, your cavi should have come stock with a maintenance free battery.

    If you removed the gear and checked your grounds and it still does the same crap, replace the alternator,battery and serp belt. take it to autozone or something and see if they can pull any codes.

    what stereo gear are you talking about? what power was it/is it? Batteries are often the #1 issue followed by #2 issue of charging system failure when you overload the system.

  3. #13

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    0 Not allowed!
    It certainly sounds like a charging fault.

    when you are at idle the voltage regulator will allow a certain amount of current back to the battery to start the charging process this happens many times per second, it should be around 14.3v when you rev the engine you should not get over 14.5v if it does it is a clear indication that the voltage regulator is faulty.

    it is easier to replace the alt then it is to replace the regulator, you also get a warranty with a new alternator and don't have to mess around with nylon washers and screws with replacing the regulator.
    16 tanks and counting

    The more i look at your tank the more i want your tank in my tank!
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  4. #14

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    0 Not allowed!
    if it was grounds then there would be times where no electricity works at all. just get a new alty, replacing the guts is very best left to the pro's. I cant even rebuild one. there are alot of things involved with rebuilding.

  5. #15

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Demjor19
    It is slow to start when warm and starts normally when cold.
    i'm thinking distributor, someone in the family had a 3rd gen Prelude that would start fine most of the time cold, but when warm it wouldnt start and you would have to sit for 10-15 minutes before it would barely start, it was the distributor.

    change the alternator before anything though

  6. #16

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    0 Not allowed!
    Well...the battery and alt. tested fine. He did notice a higher drain on the battery that what would normally be seen. I guess it has to be a short somewhere?

    Edit: I did notice the ground from the engine to the fire wall is corroded pretty badly onthe firewall side. I'm going to rework that ground after I get home tonight.

    Any other thoughts guys?
    Last edited by Demjor19; 10-13-2010 at 01:38 PM.
    -Jordan
    Gar connaisseur

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    17" Ornate Bichir, 25" Silver Arowana, 16" Bowfin, 15" Giant Gourami

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  7. #17

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    0 Not allowed!
    That ground will more than likely be your issue, clean it up really well aswell as the firewall mating surface and re-fit it, the problem im going to say will be gone.
    16 tanks and counting

    The more i look at your tank the more i want your tank in my tank!
    Chris

  8. #18

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    0 Not allowed!
    What I used to do on my older vehicles with grounds like that was sand them both down to bare metal, reattach, make sure everything works right, then spray a light coating of undercarriage rubberized spray on that point, this waterproofs it thus inturn it wont rust up or foul again at that point.

  9. #19

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    0 Not allowed!
    No mechanic here but sounds like an issue I had with my car last year. It would start fine for a couple weeks then a dead battery. Jump it and it would be fine for a bit. Then be dead again. The battery checked out OK so I had the alternater replaced. Same problem a month later. I finally bought a new battery and problem solved.

    I also had that clicking when it was trying to turn over.

    I have a Grand Prix and guess where my battery is? UNDER the washer fluid plastic thingie. I can't even see the battery. Never again will I buy a car that hides the battery!!!!!!
    Last edited by Lady Hobbs; 10-13-2010 at 03:45 PM.

  10. #20

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Lady Hobbs
    No mechanic here but sounds like an issue I had with my car last year. It would start fine for a couple weeks then a dead battery. Jump it and it would be fine for a bit. Then be dead again. The battery checked out OK so I had the alternater replaced. Same problem a month later. I finally bought a new battery and problem solved.

    I also had that clicking when it was trying to turn over.
    the issues with battery testing is they do not load test them, its a stagnant reading they get from a neutral source(no load).

    Load test the alt and battery and I can almost for certain say you will be replacing both. even a dirty corroded connection wont cause these issues as its not a loose connection.

    The clicking is not enough cranking amps to turn over the starter. the solenoid is what you hear clicking trying to push the armature gear out to grab the flywheel to spin the engine.

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