hospital/quarantine tank set up

[AquaB]

hi all,

i am just about to set up a quarantine tank. Should i use the water from my existing tank so i dont need to cycle or should i start over. if so, i have never done a no fish cycle. is this best for what i want or should i use a different set up method.

i will use the tank for hospital/quarantine/breeding ( i have a matched pair of german rams)

thanks,

Al

p.s. does anyone know if gold rams are more sensitive than german blues?
i have had a pair of gold which have died over a two week period, whilst my german blues are thrivving and laying eggs all over the show!!?

[SunSchein89]

Taking the water from your tank that is already running will not aid it in cycling at all. You'll really just be putting "dirty" water in there. Your best bet to have a quarantine tank ready is to run a small filter in parallel with your main filtration in your display tank so the bacteria can culture on that. That way whenever you would need to use the quarantine tank, you can just move the filter over and the tank should be instantly cycled, assuming the filter has been running in your main tank long enough.

Not sure about the rams, so I'll let someone with more knowledge on them chime in about that.

[AquaB]

thanks,

but im a tad confused. if my quarantine tank has no filter in it, wont the water go stagnant? if i leave it still with heater running wont that cause problems?

[Lady Hobbs]

Fish must have a filter and heater. Having a quarantine tank does not change that. Many get a sponge filter, run it in our main tank and then transfer it to a quarantine tank when it's needed.

[SkipW]

Most of the BB in the tank is located in the filter media (sponge and bio-media, not the carbon/charcoal inserts). In order to set up another tank for what ever reason, you need cycled (or seeded) filter media. This can be done by using a portion of media from your current tank and put it into your new filter or by adding a second filter to your current tank and move it to your quarantine tank when you need to.

Sounds like you are looking to set up a second tank that will always have fish in it. Keep in mind that while it's used as a breeding tank, that should be its only purpose. And when you don't have fish in the tank, you'll want to keep that filter cycled in your main tank until you need it again.

If you use it for a hospital tank, you should clean and sterilize everything in it once your fish are out of it. And replace all of the filter media to be sure nothing was left behind.

[Sasquatch]

If you're certain that your main tank has no diseases in it, you can just keep the filter running on the main tank and have the QT+heater in the closet for when you need it. If you're not sure ... fishless cycle it. No point having a QT that makes your fish sick.

If you want it running permanantly ... keep a few small fish in it to keep the BB alive.

IMO though, a QT/hospital tank should not be used except to treat fish, that way there's no need to move other fish around when one of yours gets sick or you want to add other fish to the main tank.

[jaysee]

Quarantine/hospital tanks are a very important component to long term success in the hobby. It may not seem so at first, but as more and more fish go in the tank, the risk of something upsetting the balance also goes up. There is nothing more frustrating than adding that LAST fish to the tank, the fish that completes the tank, only to have it infect the others and undo all the time and energy (and $) that's been spent. If propperly done, a quarantine tank can be set up and be ready for fish in a matter of minutes and can be broken down just as quickly. It DOES NOT have to be a perminantly running tank (unless you have a lot of fish to buy ).

A QT does not need to be expensive - bare minimums will do fine, as long as those minimums are well covered.

Tank - For most applications, a 10 gallon tank is good. However, if you plan on getting larger fish, a larger QT is needed. A 20 Long is a terrific tank for larger fish, or for active fish. Of course, if you keep small fish, a 5 gallon will do.

Filter - There are a few ways to go. First (and cheapest) is to get a sponge filter and leave it in the main tank. After a few weeks, it'll be seeded well enough to support fish in a QT. So, when the time comes all you need to do is move it from the main tank to the QT. A little more expensive is the HOB filter, which like the sponge can be set up and running on the main tank so that it is ready for the QT when you need it. A third option is to get a HOB, but rather than run it on the main tank, put some media in the main tank's filter so that all you have to do is transfer it to the QT filter (best option IMO). All that's needed is charcoal free media, so either a plain filter pad, ceramics, or whatever.

Heater - definitely needed, but doesn't need to break the bank. Make sure it's adjustable and a fixed temp heater.

Lights/hood - Lights are not needed, and the tank is best kept in a dark quiet place to let the fish adjust. A hood will be needed, but can be a DIY. Fish in quarantine can be easily spooked, and some take to the air when that happens.

Substrate - generally, bare bottom is the way to go. It is easiest to set up and break down. Also, it is easier to keep the tank clean. Some fish need a substrate, even in a QT, because they are streesed without it. Bichirs are a good example, as they use their fins to dig in and stay put. Most fish will be fine without substrate.

Decor - It's important to have SOMETHING to put in the tank for the fish to hide in - Even if it's a terra cotta pot. I like to put multiple caves in the tank. IME it encourages the fish to move about the tank as it goes from cave to cave. Also, backgrounds are very important to making fish feel safe, even if it's just construction paper.

Food - Fish in quarantine should be fed minimally. There are far more issues that can arrise from overfeeding than from underfeeding. Also, since the fish are new it is likely they won't eat right away. I generally don't feed the fish until they are out and about, looking for food. Minimal feedings will also ensure you don't overload the transfered bacteria and cause a minicycle. This is especially important when putting a group of fish in quarantine, rather than a single fish.

Products - stress coat +, or similar products are designed to minimize stress. It also is a good idea as fish can lose scales from being netted.

Water changes - There are lots of variables involved in this, but they are needed. It is important to maintain excellent water quality. Often, fish that look healthy may exibit signs of sickness once they are in your tank. The stress of being caught and moved and all can depress the immune system such that an ICH spot may show up, for example. IME, minimizing the stress and providing good clean water is all that's needed for the fish to make a recovery on their own.

Medications - Before turning to meds, frequent water changes should be employed. However, if that does not turn things around in a few days, it may be neccessary to medicate. Make sure the carbon is removed from the filter, if it's being used, and follow directions. Just like humans, if treatment is not carried out to completion, the ailments can return.

Duration - Minimum of 2 weeks. Species with known issues should be kept in quarantine for longer. Also, species that are very difficult to remove from the tank ought to be quarantined for longer....just to be sure. Also, by keeping the fish in QT for at least 2 weeks, the main tank's biofilter will be able to keep up with the new additions.

Tips - Once your seeded QT media is moved to the QT, replace it with a new piece of media. If there is an issue with the new fish, you can just toss the media and you have another piece of seeded media for next time.

-When filling up the QT, let the filter turn the water over a few times before putting the media in to make sure the water has been completely detoxified.

-Know how to acclimate the fish. There are several methods.

-Those plastic storage bins make cheap, easy QTs (and come with a lid) and work very well with sponge filters. HOBs may not fit.....

[Mith]

Jaysee! YOU da man!

[Meenu]

Nice write up, Jaysee. :D

[AquaB]

Thanks Jay!