Moisture would be a bad thing for the hardwood. Another reason to make sure all seams and corners are taped really well. I think clear shipping tape would work best. I've never tried to lift the stuff back up before, but you could give it a try. Better idea instead of the dremel. (too messy) Put small 1/8" dowels under the plastic about 3 to 4 inches apart. Then just pop them out after.
But I would think that you may not get that perfect fit when you go to lay it back down. Any bump that doesn't fit back into place, will most likely cause it to crack.
If it's an old house, chances are the subfloor has gaps that might provide enough air flow if it's exposed underneath.
Who knew it could get so involved just to set up a fish tank.
Take pictures as you go. I'd really like to know how it comes out.
I spoke to an experienced contractor who knows all about floors and just about everything else related to home building and maintenance.
He said that when you use a leveler, it's important that the subfloor or whatever is below the leveling compound be absolutely stable and not move at all. This is because generally speaking, the leveling compound will have plenty of compressive strength and can bear weight, but will not be able to withstand any shifting of the surface below it without beginning to crumble away fairly quickly.
And a hardwood floor is famous for moving around just a bit with temperature and humidity fluctuations. This is due to the fact that wood expands and contracts, and that is exacerbated by the fact that hw flooring consists of long pieces with gaps between them - perfect for expanding and contracting.
He said that I would want to put some kind of very rigid but thin surface over the wood (like vinyl) to accommodate for this motion, but it could get tricky.
This is getting more complicated by the minute!! :)
Soon I'll have NASA at the house helping me level my tank...
Its one of those things that you could easily over-do. Just take the easy route cut a thick piece of hard plywood and shim shim shim. I also cut a thin weather proof door matt to size and put it under the plywood I have hardwood also. I used to work in the building trades, so if I thought for a second it wouldnt work I would never of done it. As I said before I went mat shims plywood metal blanks and it took about two hours and I was standing on top of the stand jumping and the thing didnt budge.
Its one of those things that you could easily over-do. Just take the easy route cut a thick piece of hard plywood and shim shim shim. I also cut a thin weather proof door matt to size and put it under the plywood I have hardwood also. I used to work in the building trades, so if I thought for a second it wouldnt work I would never of done it. As I said before I went mat shims plywood metal blanks and it took about two hours and I was standing on top of the stand jumping and the thing didnt budge.
What makes me nervous about shimming is that the shims are so small - usually just a few inches. Are you talking about putting literally 50 or 60 of them under the edges to try and distribute the weight? Seems cumbersome but maybe it's fine. Plywood isn't all that rigid so I'm not sure how much that would help with the distribution.
Buy a sheet on 1" plywood.Cut it an inch larger then then the perimeter of the tank stand.There should easily be enough there to cut two or three that can be stacked and screwed together.
This will give you a more then solid base for any tank that will fit that stand.
I have this stand about 900lbs,standing on less then you do.All I did was add one support under the floor as described before.There is also a 135 right next to it. My 32" sony weighs 200lbs and that is in between them.
Its only an aquarium and Rocket science is not necessary.
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Buy a sheet on 1" plywood.Cut it an inch larger then then the perimeter of the tank stand.There should easily be enough there to cut two or three that can be stacked and screwed together.
This will give you a more then solid base for any tank that will fit that stand.
I have this stand about 900lbs,standing on less then you do.All I did was add one support under the floor as described before.There is also a 135 right next to it. My 32" sony weighs 200lbs and that is in between them.
Its only an aquarium and Rocket science is not necessary.
I agree that simple is good. Making a plywood base seems easy enough, but what about the leveling?
Cedar shims work great in house construction.I am sure they will hold a tank.
I just shimmed my tank stand but carpet hides them.
Try it empty and see how it looks.
You are aware that most every house only has 5/8 plywood for the floors eh? You have hardwood on top of that.With a plywood base and a few shims you should not have a worry.
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I'd have to agree with the cedar shims. Keep it simple. Wait until you get the stand. You may find out that it has little feet on the bottom that you could just shim with a small piece of plywood and/or metal washers, cedar shim, etc.... or maybe they're adjustable.
I've decided to hire a team of engineers to help solve this problem. Of course, we need a lab with computers and simulators before we can propose a plan. After that ,we'll do a full size proof of concept then offer the idea to the public for feedback. Finally, we'll build the solution in China, dismantle it, have it shipped here, then hire a team to assemble and install it.
Cost to make my tank level: 2.2 million!
Either that or I'll wait till the stand comes (tomorrow) and seek the simplest possible solution that will work well.