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Thread: Lab_Rat's first SW experience
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06-10-2010, 02:09 AM #11
It's been interesting so far. I'll be sure to document my mistakes so others can avoid them. First one...don't use old substrate. Second...wait 24 hours after mixing to test the sg otherwise it's not accurate.
Originally Posted by domjd05
Honestly, I need to do a lot more reading. I hadn't planned on getting a sw tank for another year, but this deal was so good I couldn't pass it up.
One thing that's really cool is seeing the creatures coming out of the live rock. A bunch of bright red tube worms have started emerging. I'm thinking of getting another piece of live rock from the lfs just to introduce some new life into the tank for diversity. The tank is cycling anyway, I figure it can't hurt.
Originally Posted by i_am_511
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06-10-2010, 02:22 AM #12
Now is definitely the time to do it - once you put fish/corals in there you will be too scared of introducing baddies into the tank to want to add any more lr! At least I am. I am only putting in dead rock anymore, if I come across a peice I like.
Originally Posted by Lab_Rat
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06-10-2010, 06:18 AM #13
Won't the tube worms be dying slowly in the cycling process? I saw a bunch of little ones pop up in a display tank at the lfs once. Apprently they can/will reproduce successfully in aquariums. There were tiny tubes and feather dusters all over the tank for a while, but eventually something ate them.
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06-10-2010, 11:18 PM #14
The way you're increasing salinity is a good way to do it.
Someting to think about: LIGHTING
Originally Posted by Lab_Rat
In regards to your current lighting period, I would recommend keeping the lights OFF until the tank recycles and stablizes a bit.
The reason being, right now the system is 'nutrient rich' and IDEAL for fueling cyanobacteria and nuisance algae. At this point in time it hasn't shown up yet. Keeping the lights on now grants cyano and nuisance algae a great opportunity to establish an initial strong hold.
While cyano and nuisance algae typically assail many newly set up tanks, I think that by denying the tank light from the very beginning the cyano (when it appears) will be milder and the nuisance algae stage may even be bypassed.
It's easier to tackle the stuff when it when it has a harder time developing in the tank in the first place (e.g. after the tank has recycled and conditions have improved a bit) rather than dealing with it after it's been essentially been 'powered' up from being (taking advantage of the excess nutrients and light).
Think of it like this: The newly set up tank is an empty house filled with lots of old food. Cyano and nuisance algae are pests (which are attracted to the old food). Light is symbolized by open doors and windows. In this scenario pests can only enter the house when the doors or windows are open.
It's better to gradually remove the old food (which represents the improvement of water quality and reduction in excess nutrients), and start opening the windows and doors AFTER all the old food has been removed. Pests will be less likely to enter the house and when they do it will be in smaller numbers and easier to eliminate.
Compare that to a different house in which trash is also being gradually removed however the windows and doors are opened from day one which allows an infestation of pests. Pest eradication will eventually come but it will come faster and easier in the first scenario than in this one.
My take on lighting in a newly set up SW tank: unnecessary until the tank is completely re-cycled, stabilized a bit and has undergone its first water change. Basically lights-off until fish (or desireable photosynthetic livestock) are added.Last edited by kaybee; 06-10-2010 at 11:21 PM.
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06-11-2010, 12:58 AM #15
I hope they don't, but I can't exactly remove them from the tank since they're on/in the live rock.
Originally Posted by toddnbecka
Kaybee, thanks for that info. I've turned the lights off and will leave them off until the cycle completes. Would it be better off to black out the tank with a blanket until then?
Originally Posted by i_am_511
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06-12-2010, 01:48 AM #16
Day 6, ammonia is still around 4ppm, though I think it's slightly lighter than 2 days ago. Should I do a wc to drop the ammonia a bit?
Also added a couple more pounds of live rock. Some of it had a bright orange colored algae on it, hopefully that's a good algae.
Originally Posted by i_am_511
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06-12-2010, 06:14 AM #17
Pics


Originally Posted by i_am_511
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06-12-2010, 07:10 PM #18
Got my poly-filter in today. Should I go ahead and add it to reduce the ammonia or am I better off letting the tank continue with it's cycle?
Originally Posted by i_am_511
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06-12-2010, 08:45 PM #19
Not sure...I think you could leave the tank be...or add your poly-filter...don't think it will make a huge difference either way.
Nice pics!
I was in our reef store today (only buying water, nothing exciting...I have to control my BTA population before I can do anything at all with my tank)...and I actually thought of you! Some gorgeous corals...some I'd like for myself too, if I didn't have 200 million anemones...55 g Goldfish Tank - 5 Fancies, 2 Dojos
25 g Tropical Tank - Celestial Pearl Danio/Mixed
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06-17-2010, 11:08 PM #20
Thanks Rue!
Tank is nearing the end of the cycle.
Today's readings:
Ammonia 0 ppm (yesterday was 4 ppm, day before was 8 ppm)
Nitrite 0 ppm
Nitrate 20 ppm
pH 7.8
Tank is also entering the diatom phase and I've seen some of the hair algae too. I got a koralia nano pump to help with circulation and added it to the right side of the tank.
Originally Posted by i_am_511





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