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Results 11 to 20 of 24
  1. #11

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    I do plan on getting CO2 in the future but like you its not in my budget right now. Actually no aquarium equipment is in my budget but having an aquarium is more important than being financially responsible : )

    With this fixture I can just use the 2 65 watt bublbs for now and then buy some more when i get CO2.

    I am new to planted tanks and lighting. Will the 2 non-blue bulbs that it comes with work well for a planted tank?

    Thanks for the input.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by octopus44
    I do plan on getting CO2 in the future but like you its not in my budget right now. Actually no aquarium equipment is in my budget but having an aquarium is more important than being financially responsible : )

    With this fixture I can just use the 2 65 watt bublbs for now and then buy some more when i get CO2.

    I am new to planted tanks and lighting. Will the 2 non-blue bulbs that it comes with work well for a planted tank?

    Thanks for the input.
    That would work. You could just run the two 65 watt 12,000 K bulbs until you got CO2. You still may want to invest in a DIY CO2 system that can be made for 20 to 30 bucks.

    The problem with the actinic blue lights is that the light they produce is in the Blue spectrum (go figure), which plants do not have receptors to harness for photosynthesis. Most photosynthetic receptors on plants are for the red and yellow light waves, which your 12,000 K bulbs should provide nicely.

    Eventually when they need to be replaced you may want to get 10,000 K bulbs as they are more of a normal fresh water plant bulb, but the 12,000 K should work.

    The light should work though, but without any form of co2 going into it you will have to worry about algae. The big mistake I made was that i did not have enough fast growing stem plants at the beginning. This will go a long way in keeping your chances of an algae outbreak down.
    46g planted tank:
    Pearl Gouramis, New Guinea Red Rainbowfish, Siamese algae eaters, Yoyo Loaches, Zebrafish, oto cats, L114 (aka Leopard cactus pleco)

    30g planted tank:
    Celestial Pearl Danios, Red Cherry Shrimp

    20g long planted tank:
    N strain Endlers Live bearers

    5 gallon:
    Half moon betta (blue body, Yellow fins)

    Pictures and My Blog

  3. #13

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by hungryhound
    That would work. You could just run the two 65 watt 12,000 K bulbs until you got CO2. You still may want to invest in a DIY CO2 system that can be made for 20 to 30 bucks.

    The problem with the actinic blue lights is that the light they produce is in the Blue spectrum (go figure), which plants do not have receptors to harness for photosynthesis. Most photosynthetic receptors on plants are for the red and yellow light waves, which your 12,000 K bulbs should provide nicely.

    Eventually when they need to be replaced you may want to get 10,000 K bulbs as they are more of a normal fresh water plant bulb, but the 12,000 K should work.

    The light should work though, but without any form of co2 going into it you will have to worry about algae. The big mistake I made was that i did not have enough fast growing stem plants at the beginning. This will go a long way in keeping your chances of an algae outbreak down.
    Plants do use blue light for photosynthesis. It is the green light which they do not use.

    Are there any good articles you recommend for making a CO2 system?

    I donít plan on having any fast growing stem plants in my aquarium is this going to create big algae problems? I am going to have java moss, java fern, some tall and short grasses, clovers for ground cover and maybe something else.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by sergo
    use a thin sheet of lexan (plexiglass) and cut just enough out for the feet to attach and for filter clearance.

    lol, lexan is "bullet proof glass". Dont think fish can get through that!
    Money can't buy happiness, but it sure can pay the rent.

  5. #15

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    To get your tank properly started as a planted tank you fisrt need those fast growing stuff to eat up all the nitrates, phosphates and whatever you will have in abundance in your water while the tank is setting up the chemical balance.

    If you start with those much more slower growing plants, you will get an algae problem.

    After some weeks you can start changing the fast growing stuff for the slower ones, but not too quickly.

    In some months you may have all the plants you want, and only here and there some algae.

    If I remember correctly it took me about 3 or 4 months going from fast growers to Nymphaea lotus to Java fern and Echinodorus.

    My plants grow nicely, even though I dont use CO2 and dont know how much Kelvin my bulbs produce

    Andrea

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by octopus44
    Plants do use blue light for photosynthesis. It is the green light which they do not use.
    I doubt that 10 percent of all the light used for photosynthesis is blue light. They might use some, but if you used only actinic your plants would die.

    Quote Originally Posted by octopus44
    Are there any good articles you recommend for making a CO2 system?
    I no longer have links for any of the ones that I used. But check the DIY section, there are a couple of threads in there and if you get stuck ask questions.

    Quote Originally Posted by octopus44
    I donít plan on having any fast growing stem plants in my aquarium is this going to create big algae problems? I am going to have java moss, java fern, some tall and short grasses, clovers for ground cover and maybe something else.
    nanaglen2001 pretty much answered this question.
    46g planted tank:
    Pearl Gouramis, New Guinea Red Rainbowfish, Siamese algae eaters, Yoyo Loaches, Zebrafish, oto cats, L114 (aka Leopard cactus pleco)

    30g planted tank:
    Celestial Pearl Danios, Red Cherry Shrimp

    20g long planted tank:
    N strain Endlers Live bearers

    5 gallon:
    Half moon betta (blue body, Yellow fins)

    Pictures and My Blog

  7. #17

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    Up to you if you want to try the light. I have heard of issues with ballasts breaking on cheaper fixtures, but your mileage may vary. 260 watts is also way too much light without a pressurized CO2 system. Even 130 will be borderline and it's highly recommended you either make a large DIY system or go pressurized.

    http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Produc...&N=2004+113345

    30 bucks more, and comes with the bulbs you need already. Coralife is a good company with great customer service. You can probably find this particular fixture for cheaper elsewhere too.

    Plants do benefit from actinic lights, but only as supplements once main lighting needs are met. Sure it provides blue light, and technically, if you look at the light spectrum absorption charts for chloropyhyll A and B, you'll see that one of the peaks is right about 460nm. However, the issue is that actinic lights are not very bright, meaning they do not have sufficient intensity to really even factor into the w/g rule.

    The K rating is not really that important. All it does is give you a general idea of what the bulb spectrum is (6700-10000k are usually full spectrum, which is why those bulbs are usually recommended) and have no significant bearing on the actual wavelengths of light produced. A mix of 6700k and 10000k is generally thought to look the best.

    Nanaglen is right, with a high tech setup, you pack the tank with fast growers at the beginning to avoid algae. Also run carbon and ammonia removing filter media. The fast stem plants come out later on slowly as you replace more and more of them with slower growing plants.

    Imo glass tops are better. They don't scratch as easily as acrylic. Since I intern at a polycarbonates company, it was easier for me to get one cut out of it though :P
    Foshizzle.

  8. #18

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    Thanks for the link Chrona. That looks like it may be a better fixture to buy. Will 2.3 wpg be enough light to grow a ground cover of clovers or something similar?

    What is a good fast growing stem plant that can be pruned liberally?

    This hobby is really teaching me to be patient. I want my tank to look how I want it to look now, but I guess i have to accept the fact that thats not going to happen.

    Thanks for all the great advice everyone.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by octopus44
    Thanks for the link Chrona. That looks like it may be a better fixture to buy. Will 2.3 wpg be enough light to grow a ground cover of clovers or something similar?

    What is a good fast growing stem plant that can be pruned liberally?

    This hobby is really teaching me to be patient. I want my tank to look how I want it to look now, but I guess i have to accept the fact that thats not going to happen.

    Thanks for all the great advice everyone.
    Depends on what kind of clover you are referring to. If it's the marsilea sp, then yes. Marsilea grow even in low light. Marsilea minuta and hirsuta in particular, stays low in low light. Bear in mind it grows pretty slowly, so you want to add it after the whole algae phase. Groundcovers like glosso and dwarf hairgrass require fairly high lighting to stay compact and to spread.

    Most varieties of hygrophila will do fine. Also water sprite. Just get a big bundle of the stuff from a fellow hobbyists over at the swap and shop section of plantedtank.net

    Actually that ideal tank can happen very quickly, like within 3 weeks or so, but it all requires a decent financial investment :)
    Foshizzle.

  10. #20

    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrona
    Depends on what kind of clover you are referring to. If it's the marsilea sp, then yes. Marsilea grow even in low light. Marsilea minuta and hirsuta in particular, stays low in low light. Bear in mind it grows pretty slowly, so you want to add it after the whole algae phase. Groundcovers like glosso and dwarf hairgrass require fairly high lighting to stay compact and to spread.
    I much prefer the glosso over marsilea. How many WPG do you think I will need to grow that?

    As far as getting the tank started should I only put fast growing stem plants in and then put the slower plants in later? Or can I Put the slower growing plants in along with the stem plants? I plan on having some grasses, java fern, java moss, glosso and maybe one stem plant.

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