Quarantine/Hospital Tanks...?

[kel]

Question,

Soon I will be adding some new fish to my 55g aquarium and was wondering how you all keep your quarantine/hospital tanks set up.

1.Do you keep them filled and running all the time?

2.If so how do you keep them cycled?

3.Do you just keep a quarantine/hospital filter in one of your established tanks just for emergencies?

4.Is having it cycled even an issue?

5.How big should it be min?

6.Decorated or not?

Sorry about all the questions, just a little curious and want to do this right this time.. My first and only fish purchase trip to my LFS ended up with THE WORST combination for a 28g community tank imaginable... was told it was perfectly fine

Thanks :)

[Sarkazmo]

Hospital/Q tanks are always advisable. Most keep a bare tank with a couple artificial decorations for fish cover so they're not any more stressed than necessary. Also many use sponge filters and just change the water every day. Others keep fish in the tank at all times for cycling reasons. The way one sets up a H/Q tank is really dependent on one's situation.

Sark

[Cliff]

Here’s what I do

I have a both a 20 and a 10 gallon for my quarantine tank. I keep it empty, no water substraight or decorations in it. I have a extra 200W heater that a I will use as well. The HOB filter I have for it is kept running on my 36 gallon tank so it remains filled with BB and ready when I need it. I have a timer for the light and low watt lighting. I’m lucky to have the two extra tanks. If I had to pick one, it would be the 20 gallon tank as my severums are going to get really big when their fully grown, I think most people have a 10 gallon tank for a quarantine tank.

When I need to use the quarantine tank, I fill it with water and move the filter to the 10 gallon. Instant cycled tank.

I had to recently use my quarantine tank. I moved my tetras out of their tank when I noticed the blue acaras had fry in there. The tetras have been in there for a week now and they are doing fine. My wife was testing the water every second day in the quarantine tank and everything is good there (ammonia = 0, nitrite, = 0, PH 7.6, nitrate = 5)

You could add something in a quarantine tank for fish to hind in if that would make them feel more comfortable. I’m going to add some pcs of slate to the bottom of mine tomorrow so there is less reflection off the bottom of the glass making it a little more natural, and real easy to add and remove as needed.

I hope this helps

[Northernguy]

Not sure if you have seen this or not but it may help.
QT tanks are easy to keep.


URL="http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/disease/quarantine.php"]http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/disease/quarantine.php[/URL]

[Lady Hobbs]

I run a sponge filter in one of my 55's and when I buy new fish, I set up the smaller tank, drop in that sponge filter and have an instant cycle.

[korith]

1.Do you keep them filled and running all the time?
Nope the tank sits empty, until its needed
2.If so how do you keep them cycled?
with a sponge filter from an existing tank
3.Do you just keep a quarantine/hospital filter in one of your established tanks just for emergencies?
I keep a spare sponge filter running in my 40g, when it is needed just move it over to the quarantine tank and fill it up with water.
4.Is having it cycled even an issue?
Should be fine with filter media/sponge from an an existing tank.
5.How big should it be min?
Doesn't need to be large. Depends on the size of your fish really, for me a 10g tank works. Big enough so your fish can fit in it and move around. Worst case scenario you have to treat the tank the fish for a disease, a smaller tank would need less medication. Remember to pull the carbon out of the filter media if you use any meds in the tank.
6.Decorated or not?
I keep the quarantine tank bare. I have the bottom and back of the tank painted black. Just has a heater, filter, and thermometer in it. Could keep a few decorations in the tank, to make the fish more comfortable. Remember it's only going to be a temporary tank, if a disease breaks out in the tank, you'll have to disinfect and clean everything in the tank before you use it again.

Sorry about all the questions, just a little curious and want to do this right this time.. My first and only fish purchase trip to my LFS ended up with THE WORST combination for a 28g community tank imaginable... was told it was perfectly fine

Thanks :)

Questions are good, we've all had them. I have a hard time trusting recommendations from some lfs, best to get the names of fish you like, and read up on them on the net or post up a note in the forum.

Think my quarantine tank a 10g, sponge filter, air pump, and heater, only cost me around $20 at most. Probably a bit more if I had to buy the heater.

[Dacotah7]

Question,

Soon I will be adding some new fish to my 55g aquarium and was wondering how you all keep your quarantine/hospital tanks set up.

1.Do you keep them filled and running all the time?

2.If so how do you keep them cycled?

3.Do you just keep a quarantine/hospital filter in one of your established tanks just for emergencies?

4.Is having it cycled even an issue?

5.How big should it be min?

6.Decorated or not?

Sorry about all the questions, just a little curious and want to do this right this time.. My first and only fish purchase trip to my LFS ended up with THE WORST combination for a 28g community tank imaginable... was told it was perfectly fine

Thanks :)

Fifteen years ago I always had 3-4 tanks of various sizes, from 10-55g. I got out of the hobby for a few years when I moved. When I restarted keeping fish I went big, bigger than I ever had before with the 125g. I never had a Q/H until recently, but someplace along the way I knew I should. A few months back I bought several new fish, (at least one of which had ich) and introduced them directly into my 125g which was already had a lot of fish in it. I should have known better; at the LFS I saw one sick fish in that tank that I bought three angels from. Now it is 20/20 hindsight but to late.

That was my turning point in deciding to get a Q/H. I had a very nice set-up, with good parameters, taking a long time and a lot of care to get it that way. A lot of effort was wasted as well as a big financial loss. That did not bother me as much as loosing my fish and disrupting their habitat, plus all the time and effort trying to stop the Ich.

My plan was to get a free (give-a-way) or cheap 5-10g and buy the missing parts, setting it up only when needed. What I ended up with was a 20g bare tank with a nice metal stand from Criag's List for $20. My plan was go cheap, inexpensive. That budget fell by the way side, with glazed eyes going for good media, substrate and lights.

It has been running for the past week, with Pond Matrix and Flourite Black sand substrate and a piece of driftwood in place, with some water borrowed from the 125g. As I have thousands of snails in the 125g I did not want to borrow media. Just yesterday I added the first plants, 6 Zebras and 2 catfish. The fish are as happy as could be and very active. I have 15 gallons of aged water in buckets standing by for water changes as needed until the tank is fully established. I am running a Aqua Clear 70 HOB with the large foam filter and the rest of the space filled with ceranic rings.

All new fish will pass through the Q/T before going into the 125g. Once I get my 125g re-stocked to where I want it, I intend to keep the 20g as an active tank, heavlily planted for it's size, and will serve as a grow out tank for plants (I think, as of now). I have plans to keep a few fish in it, but always bearing in mind, they may have to move to the 125g should I need a quarantine or hospital.

[kel]

Thanks for all the great information everyone

Looking around my house I seem to have most everything I need to get one in the bull pen so to speak.

I have an extra small HOB and hood just need a heater and small tank :)

Might go thrift storing this weekend and see what I can find as far as cheap tanks go.

[korith]

Thanks for all the great information everyone

Looking around my house I seem to have most everything I need to get one in the bull pen so to speak.

I have an extra small HOB and hood just need a heater and small tank :)

Might go thrift storing this weekend and see what I can find as far as cheap tanks go.

For the media, can just add some more to your current tank. Then pull it out and put into your small hob for q tank when you need it. For a cheap tank a 10g can be had for around $10-12 at petsmart/walmart. If you need a larger tank for cheap, I've used plastic storage bins from walmart. 20-40g bins for $5-10 isn't bad. Just don't melt the plastic with the heater hehe.

[tanks4thememories]

Question,

Soon I will be adding some new fish to my 55g aquarium and was wondering how you all keep your quarantine/hospital tanks set up.

1.Do you keep them filled and running all the time?

2.If so how do you keep them cycled?

3.Do you just keep a quarantine/hospital filter in one of your established tanks just for emergencies?

4.Is having it cycled even an issue?

5.How big should it be min?

6.Decorated or not?

Sorry about all the questions, just a little curious and want to do this right this time.. My first and only fish purchase trip to my LFS ended up with THE WORST combination for a 28g community tank imaginable... was told it was perfectly fine

Thanks :)

Here is my thoughts and actions on the subject.
Often I find when designing a system it is best to look at its purpose which will dictate its design.

General terms:
QT tank = Place to keep newly purchased fish for 4-6 weeks to make sure they are healthy before introducing them to main tank
HOSP Tank = Hospital sick tank for treating fish that have come down with illness.
Bio-Remediation - Providing an environment in which nitrafying bacteria can colonize in sufficient numbers to completely break down ammonia/nitrites that are produced within 8-12 hrs.
Chemical remediation - Using addatives to break down/remove amonia/nitrites.
Mechanical Remediation - Using physical means to remove ammonia/nitrites typically water changes...lol

General tools:
Seeded Media - I keep extra filter media in My FX5 so that it is at the ready to instantly cycle any filter that is needed. This allows me to keep my extra filters off and at the ready for use as needed.
Empty 10 gallon tank
Several containers of Ammo Chips - absorb ammonia
(2) sets of Nitrasorb - Absorbs nitrites (These are rechargeable and you can have one set recharging while the other set is in use)
HOB Filter - capable of remediating ammonia/nitrites in a 40 Gal tank.
Heater - capable rated for a 40 gal tank.
Empty 20 Gallon tank - Before my last assignment change I used to have a 20 gallon for feeders and quarantine of large fish if necessary. IE: if I had a fish too large to go into 10 gal I would be able to just empty the 20 sterilize it and set up with new filter and media from FX5. Now I just have the 10 gal but I will eventually get another 20 gal feeder tank.


Ok, here is how I use the tools and information above.

Since quarantine tanks are a temporary home smaller fish can go into 10 gallon tank with a hob and heater set up. I use my seeded media from the fx5 and poof instant cycle (Bio Remediation). I rarely buy more fish at a time than I can hold in 10 gal comfortably. It is also important that you have a good fitting lid as some fish when placed in a new environment feel the need to try to escape..lol It is also good to have regular scheduled lighting to help them adjust and no substrate in case you have to medicate. I find the key here is to make this temporary tank as comfortable as possible without making it difficult to medicate/clean if then need should arise.

If fish become sick or fish in my main tank get sick enough to require meds then the 10 gallon is now considered a Hospital tank. The key here is to have the smallest tank possible that still allows the sick fish room to turn around. The reason for small is so that you don't have to take out a second mortgage to treat 200 gallons of water with some million dollar per drop medication..lol I dump the media in the HOB and convert it to Chemical Remediation mode using the ammo chips and the nitrasorb, each placed in old pantyhose and stocked in the filter. Chemical filtration is best for Hospital tank because it allows you the freedom of worrying about your bio bacteria. Lets you keep meds in longer because you aren't worried about water changes.

As a last resort if needed you can always mechanically remove wastes by doing 100% WC (Mechanical Remediation). If it is the same temp and PH as water that was removed I have found it to have no stressful effect on fish whatsoever.

Hope this helps ya. Good Luck!!