Am I doing it right?

**toysrus** · 02-07-2010, 02:43 PM

Can someone tell me the correct way to test ph levels,if I'm doing this wrong?
If the low range test always shows 7.6 but a high range test range shows 7.8 which one is the most accurate?

I am using C0 2 during the day. And shut off usually at dusk because that's when the ph range is lowered to neutral.

It probably don't matter using DIY CO 2 as long as I keep monitoring the PH,right?

I'm curious about this because my API master test kit low range chart tops off at 7.6 and the high range chart starts at "7.4" and tops off at 8.8.

Without the CO 2 fertilizer going the PH is never lower than 7.6 on the regular chart range. And it is testable with the high range test also.
I've tried keeping it neutral but it cornered me and I gave up trying.

Actually an article for lowering PH may help.

**jcarr71** · 02-07-2010, 03:14 PM

To some this may seem like a sin, but I don't even test for PH. I see it is as not mattering. I know some fish do better in some conditions, so I test it once in a blue moon to make sure it is still its default relatively soft around 6 PH level, but that is a rarity. Why? Well, fish can generally adjust to different PHs. Some can't, and I wouldn't reccomend putting fish in wildly different PH levels either (the main reason I haven't bothered with African lake cichlids yet). What is truly damaging is rapid changes in PH. Yes you can buy chemicals to change it, but they wear off. That rapid snap back and forth unless you are absolutely perfect is more damaging than the "wrong" PH.

I focus my efforts on the nitrogen cycle and let the PH run its own natural course. I'd reccomend most everyone else do the same, though I am sure there are exceptions who have figured out how to master it. Given the stocking listed in your sig, I don't understand why'd you'd worry about it so much. Those are hardy, very used to aquaria fish who won't mind any PH but the extremes.

**smaug** · 02-07-2010, 03:45 PM

Unless you really want to get into ph adjusting it sounds to me like you have a good water condition for most fish.mid 7s are fine,its an issue when you get over 7.7 [arbitrary number] even then ph adjustment is best left to experienced keepers who are looking for the "best conditions" for there chosen fish.I did it for years with good results but decided it simply wasn't worth the time it took to test all the time and keep the numbers at a so called perfect number.Good results are obtainable by using natural buffers such as lots of driftwood and peat pellets in the filter,those 2 things would bring you down at least a half point and keep it there without danger.You are testing correctly but have water which is right in the middle between the 2 levels which makes it difficult.If you test once a week and it doesn't waver you are fine and can continue testing just once a week.

**toysrus** · 02-07-2010, 03:58 PM

I didn't like the quote in parenthesis about African cichlids, which I don't have any of,in this case. But a good example anyway,if I wanted to worry about cichlids. Then the rapid PH snap that's more damaging than the wrong PH I'm not too sure about! And "that" more or less is my question and issue.
I was hoping to better my chances of the dwarf catfish spawning by lowering the PH a tad,while at the same time letting the CO 2 and PH run it's natural PH course.But, you explained keeping it there is another thing.{chemicals wear off}
I don't know how you can own fish without following the rule of thumb and test for ph,nitrite, and nitrates.And where do you get water at a default level... lol and call it a soft 6 level,which sounds like an ideal water parameter for African cichlids,not my stock!
Not to sound like a wise guy but,At any rate you understand what I'm trying to do and don't have any real interest,.

Originally Posted by jcarr71

To some this may seem like a sin, but I don't even test for PH. I see it is as not mattering. I know some fish do better in some conditions, so I test it once in a blue moon to make sure it is still its default relatively soft around 6 PH level, but that is a rarity. Why? Well, fish can generally adjust to different PHs. Some can't, and I wouldn't reccomend putting fish in wildly different PH levels either (the main reason I haven't bothered with African lake cichlids yet). What is truly damaging is rapid changes in PH. Yes you can buy chemicals to change it, but they wear off. That rapid snap back and forth unless you are absolutely perfect is more damaging than the "wrong" PH.

I focus my efforts on the nitrogen cycle and let the PH run its own natural course. I'd reccomend most everyone else do the same, though I am sure there are exceptions who have figured out how to master it. Given the stocking listed in your sig, I don't understand why'd you'd worry about it so much. Those are hardy, very used to aquaria fish who won't mind any PH but the extremes.

**toysrus** · 02-07-2010, 04:03 PM

Thanks Smaug,

Originally Posted by smaug

Unless you really want to get into ph adjusting it sounds to me like you have a good water condition for most fish.mid 7s are fine,its an issue when you get over 7.7 [arbitrary number] even then ph adjustment is best left to experienced keepers who are looking for the "best conditions" for there chosen fish.I did it for years with good results but decided it simply wasn't worth the time it took to test all the time and keep the numbers at a so called perfect number.Good results are obtainable by using natural buffers such as lots of driftwood and peat pellets in the filter,those 2 things would bring you down at least a half point and keep it there without danger.You are testing correctly but have water which is right in the middle between the 2 levels which makes it difficult.If you test once a week and it doesn't waver you are fine and can continue testing just once a week.

**smaug** · 02-07-2010, 04:18 PM

Im glad you appreciated my post but it was not the only helpful reply you got.In the future I hope you will understand that all the members here have helpful things to relay in there replys.

**toysrus** · 02-07-2010, 06:18 PM

I'm starting to get a grasp on tap water condition types.
Softwater: Low PH
Hardwater:Low PH
Hardwater: High PH
I'm still trying.
If I add driftwood, my PH will ranges from neutral to 7.5 area.Doing a weekly water change.

I wish water changes would neutralize the ph but it makes water harder and raises my PH,so my first instinct was to lower the PH with a chemical.I tried that and the chemicals don't bind because the water is so hard and the PH goes right back where it was.

CO 2 will lower it even more.Not too risky if I monitor it closely.
I do it routinely once a day now.

I don't want to do more water changes than one per week,but I might have to if I got driftwood in combination with CO 2. And that sounds like to much to me,Unless the water changes are small.
Or I could cut back on CO 2 use,and get out of so many frequent water changes.
I think that's what what I should do,but I could do it either way.

So I think my tap water is in the middle range:Hardwater Low PH?

Would someone care to tell me if they think my water is Hard "low ph" or Hard "High ph"?

**smaug** · 02-07-2010, 06:28 PM

To answer your questions better I need a few more parameters from you.
GH.
Kh.
well water or city provided tap water.
nitrates.
PH as close as possible.
Exact fish load and species you have now.
We need these numbers from your tank water and tap water.
what chems have you used so far to lower your ph?

**Bristley** · 02-07-2010, 06:32 PM

Originally Posted by toysrus

Would someone care to tell me if they think my water is Hard "low ph" or Hard "High ph"?

Since you are testing your aquarium for pH you must have something to test it with. (Can't remember if you said it before so I'll ask) Are you using a liquid test kit?

Anyway, the main point is, that you have something to test pH for your tanks, therefore you can also test pH for your tap water and answer the question you posted easily that way.

Also, it would make sense that the pH of you tank goes up when you do a WC if the pH of your tap water is higher.

It also sounds like from an earlier post you had on here...

I don't know how you can own fish without following the rule of thumb and test for ph,nitrite, and nitrates.

That you may have pH and ammonia confused somehow. The things that you need to test for to determine tank cycling are ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. pH, while being good to know, is not as important a value to monitor as ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Like others have said, unless you really want to start getting into water chemistry, AND have special needs fish, it is best to not mess with pH.

That's just my 2 cents.

**lowlight** · 02-07-2010, 07:49 PM

I don't know anything about running CO2. My water has a Ph of 7.5-7.6 and a little on the alkaline side and a hardness of somewhere around 120 to 150 Gh. My fish and plants are all healthy. The more alkaline your water the better the buffering capacity which will make it more difficult to lower Ph. If you want to change the Ph of your water I would experiment with tap water to start, in an empty tank or bucket. I personally don't mess with it since none of the fish I have require anything special and I only test for Nitrates every now and then. I figure my tap water is what it is it works so I don't mess with it.