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Thread: Losing my neons
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05-17-2007, 03:04 PM #11
I agree, I use to run mine in 78-79F with no problem.
Originally Posted by Lady Hobbs
james
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05-17-2007, 03:59 PM #12
Hmm. I'm not sure what could be my issue then. I'm fairly certain my tank has cycled. I have had a spike in the nitrates and other than the tetras, I only lost 2 danios a month a part from each other, but there are still 5 other fish doing quite well in the tank. I do register some ammonia when I test it, but it is somewhere between 0ppm and .25ppm.
Originally Posted by jttt3
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05-17-2007, 04:07 PM #13
I've wondered about this. All the grief I've had with my neons was when the tank was 80-82. I couldn't get it any lower, with my lowest setting.
The second attempt of my tank I got the smallest heater I can find. It's actually rated for a 3-5g tank. It's also on the lowest setting. I got it down to 78 and this batch of neons has been much much better, although still some problems.
Then summer kicks in on the Gulf, and my hot humid bathroom that somehow missed my great AC, and I have 80 degrees again, and the white patches start coming back and deteriorating. Then I read on forums about the evaporation process and heat, so I see what happens if I leave the feed/filter lid off of my Eclipse 12. And I end up with near constant 76 degrees.
It's been about a week now... and they are looking their best! It doesn't look all that great to see the filter pads and everything, but who cares, the neons look a lot better.
Then I hear many many people keep neons just fine with their discus, notoriously high temps.
All I know is I hope to be sticking with my 76-78 degrees. I hear temps toward the lower range of the fish can do things like... inhibit bacteria infection (Columnaris loves summer temps) lower the fish metabolism, and prolong the life of the fish supposedly.
The other reason I wanted to try it, was because years ago in our old tank with only bimonthly water changes, we had it about 75 or something, and none of our fish got sick once.
I guess the jury's out... you just have to see what works best for your neons, and make gradual changes.
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05-17-2007, 04:41 PM #14
When the water gets hotter, it reduces the rate at which oxygen is dissolved into your tank. I would drop in an airstone to break the surface tension of the water and see if you can get more oxygen into the tank. That's why I was asking about the fish gasping for air.
That's all I can think of at this point.
james
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05-17-2007, 04:46 PM #15
I do have two airstones in the tank and a power filter that both add significant bubbles to the tank. You can easily see the tiny bubbles just floating around in the water. Although my tank is a hex tank, so my actual surface area at the top of the tank is signicantly less.
Originally Posted by jttt3
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05-17-2007, 04:49 PM #16
I agree with Lady Hobbs in that your tank is not cycled. The timeline of how your tank was cycled is not clear, but here is how I understand it.
Originally Posted by naiku
10 gallon tank
Added 3 goldfish
Goldfish go number 1 and 2 in your tank releasing ammonia and starting your cycle.
3 goldfish die -(ammonia High, not enough bacteria)
Test water at local fish store and the ammonia is high.
Let fish tank sit empty until ammonia is 0.
All of your bacteria ate the left over ammonia
no new sourceof ammonia for your bacteria and they die.
Added 8 tetras
Went number 1 and number 2 in the water
Ammonia rose because bacteria was all dead from being starved.
Fish died.
That is the timeline that I gleam from your post. If this is correct then Hobbs is correct in that the tank is not cycled. I would suggest checking out the fishless cycling sticky as to save other fish the horror of going through a cycle.Last edited by hungryhound; 05-17-2007 at 05:06 PM.
46g planted tank:
Pearl Gouramis, New Guinea Red Rainbowfish, Siamese algae eaters, Yoyo Loaches, Zebrafish, oto cats, L114 (aka Leopard cactus pleco)
30g planted tank:
Celestial Pearl Danios, Red Cherry Shrimp
20g long planted tank:
N strain Endlers Live bearers
5 gallon:
Half moon betta (blue body, Yellow fins)
Pictures and My Blog
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05-17-2007, 04:58 PM #17
If the tank is sitting empty then all of the bacteria will die as they will have no source of ammonia. You would be best to read the sticky on fishless cycling or add either 1 goldfish or 1 zebra danio and use them to cycle.
Originally Posted by naiku
Using more than one fish in a small ten gallon tank will cause the ammonia to build up quicker than your bacteria colony can grow. This will cause you to see lethal levels of ammonia and kill your fish.
Either way you have to have a constant supply of food for the bacteria. Without it they will die off.46g planted tank:
Pearl Gouramis, New Guinea Red Rainbowfish, Siamese algae eaters, Yoyo Loaches, Zebrafish, oto cats, L114 (aka Leopard cactus pleco)
30g planted tank:
Celestial Pearl Danios, Red Cherry Shrimp
20g long planted tank:
N strain Endlers Live bearers
5 gallon:
Half moon betta (blue body, Yellow fins)
Pictures and My Blog
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05-17-2007, 04:58 PM #18
Broken down like that, I agree.
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05-22-2007, 07:02 PM #19
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I'd say this is just about about spot on.
Originally Posted by hungryhound
That bacteria can't live forever without a food source!!!
Also, adding 8 fish all at once in a (now determined) uncycled tank will cause a large spike in ammonia--which is probably the culprit of your problems.
The smaller the tank, the more careful you have to be with keeping up with good water parameters! THIS IS IMPERATIVE!
Constant water changes (say 25%) will help dilute the ammonia levels to a less-toxic (but still deadly) level. Remember, the good bacteria don't float around in the water...they live in filter media and your substrate...so doing water changes is a good thing (use a good conditioner!)
My opinion would be COMPLETELY clean out your tank, gravel, etc, and start completely over.
Do a complete fishless cycle with PURE ammonia...
And when you are finally ready to add fish, only add a few at a time...





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