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  1. #21

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    Penguin is absolutely correct, although I don't quite agree with the Hydrogren peroxide thing. Thats just a temporary fix, but to actually get rid of algae you'll need to balance everything out or it will just keep coming back.


    NOT fertilizing creates far more algae than regular fertilization.
    Its a misconception that fertilizers cause algae. Nutrients in the water do not cause algae, inbalance of nutrients cause algae.
    If you bring all your nutrients up to their proper levels you will have far less algae, because the plants will outcompete the algae. Dosing erratically and without knowledge of what you are putting in the water will cause algae. Proper balanced dosing will not cause algae, just the opposite. Algaes only need simple nutrients, they can survive on anything. Plants require a greater range of nutrients, and when their needs are met they will easily outcompete the algae.

    I personally dose every nutrient in existence, but all you really need to dose is micros and potassium.

    Fish product nitrates and phosphates, all you need is a micro solution like Flourish or CSM+B (the dry equivalent), and a potassium solution like Flourish Potassium or Mono Potassium sulphate (KHSO4) to bring the potassium levels up to match. You'll have to experiement a bit to find the ideal balance.

    Nutrients don't cause algae. Inbalance of nutrients causes algae.
    Bringing up CO2 can also help to keep down certain algaes.
    Last edited by NickFish; 06-27-2009 at 03:39 PM.

  2. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by NickFish
    Penguin is absolutely correct, although I don't quite agree with the Hydrogren peroxide thing. Thats just a temporary fix, but to actually get rid of algae you'll need to balance everything out or it will just keep coming back.
    I agree with peroxide only being a treatment not a fix. I am using it because I let my 29g get out of balance and I have an outbreak of BBA. I have since brought the tank into balance and it has done wonders.
    55g: Future home of a green terror and 2 convicts
    29g: Convicts, tiger barbs, corys, snails
    29g: 3 fancy goldfish
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  3. #23

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    Quote Originally Posted by PostalPenguin
    I agree with peroxide only being a treatment not a fix. I am using it because I let my 29g get out of balance and I have an outbreak of BBA. I have since brought the tank into balance and it has done wonders.
    If you follow through with balanced nutrients than yes, it would be a good method of controlling algae. But only with you do follow through with balancing it.

  4. #24

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    You've gotten excellent advice here. Follow through with it if you want to get your plants growing well and the algae under control. In our 20 long, our growth was minimal, and I had to take a toothbrush to the thread algae pretty often before I added DIY CO2 and started fertilizing. I've been using the Seachem line of ferts in conjunction with their calculator and it's been working great. I dose everything in the calculator except Trace. Good luck!

    Seachem dosing calculator:
    http://www.seachem.com/Library/Calculators.html
    Last edited by Anomaly; 06-28-2009 at 12:28 AM.
    36 gallon bowfront - "Hector" the Dwarf Gourami, 3 Peppered Corydoras, "Big Eric" the Rubberlip Pleco, "Killwillie" the German Blue Ram, and 9 Rummynose Tetras, 1 true Siamese Algae Eater

    20 gallon long; Planted & Aquascaped (Dwarf Hairgrass, Scarlet Temple, Lace Java Fern, Red Ludwigia) - Female German Blue Ram, 4 Oto's, 11 Neon Tetras

  5. #25

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    Well went to the LFS today and picked up the Seachem Flouish and flouish root tabs. Hopefully things will start to pick up soon. They had some light timers but I think I can pick one up off craigslist for much cheaper. Going to see how the ferts and cut back on lighting works out before I invest in more.

    While at the LFS I talked to the owner for over an hour lol. Really cool guy and he told me for planted tanks that surface agitation is not recommended because it lets all the CO2 out that the fish produce or that is put in by a system. For his tanks he is using an internal canister filter with a spray bar attached to the output pointed down a long the back wall to keep good tank circulation without surface agitation. Any thoughts on this? He said he read about it in a book by Preston? who was one of the creators of the modern day planted aquarium.
    10g- 5 diamond tetra, 1 oto, 1 albino BN pleco, 1 assassin snail and 2 blue shrimp. Heavily planted tank.

  6. #26

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    Agreed, surface agitation drives off co2...but you want circulation threwout the tank. I would recommend a Tom Rapids little hang on canister for it...theyre like $20-25 online and would offer excellent filtration and they have a spraybar which does pretty well on a tank of that size for water circulation. You can also pick a light timer up from the light section of walmart for about $5.
    3x75 gallons|1x55 gallon|2x40 gallons


  7. #27

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    The no surface agitation is both true and false. It is true if you have CO2 injection because it will just out-gas all the CO2 you are trying to inject.

    However, in a non-CO2 tank, more surface agitation is better. This is because the atmosphere has a decent amount of CO2 in it, much higher than in your tank since the plants are rapidly depleting it. So the more agitation, the more CO2 from the atmosphere that gets dissolved into the water. If you have no CO2(DIY or pressurized) you'd do best by having as much surface agitation as possible.
    55g: Future home of a green terror and 2 convicts
    29g: Convicts, tiger barbs, corys, snails
    29g: 3 fancy goldfish
    5g: Betta

  8. #28

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    Thanks for the recommendations and clarification Killer and Penguin. I might go with a filter like the one you suggested if I end up getting a c02 system int he future. Might make a walmart trip this weekend.
    10g- 5 diamond tetra, 1 oto, 1 albino BN pleco, 1 assassin snail and 2 blue shrimp. Heavily planted tank.

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