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Results 1 to 10 of 22
  1. Default Multiple questions

    I didn't want to have to ask each question under a different sub-forum so here are the rest of my questions.
    How does cycling work? Specifically fishless cycling?


    What is the maximum size recommended for beginners?


    For beginners, is it a lot easier to have a freshwater verses a saltwater or brackish water aquarium?


    What kind of substrate is best for planted aquariums?



    I'll have more questions later for sure.

  2. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Captivated by Fish
    I didn't want to have to ask each question under a different sub-forum so here are the rest of my questions.
    How does cycling work? Specifically fishless cycling?


    What is the maximum size recommended for beginners?


    For beginners, is it a lot easier to have a freshwater verses a saltwater or brackish water aquarium?


    What kind of substrate is best for planted aquariums?



    I'll have more questions later for sure.
    1. All aspects of fishless cycling can be explained here : http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640

    2. There really is no "maximum size" when starting out. In fact, the bigger the tank the easier it will be to take care of in the aspect of water parameters. Larger tanks will take longer to build up harmful or even lethal levels of toxins.

    3. Freshwater is by far the best way to get into the hobby, its easier int he sense that it's less you have to check and worry about. I would ALWAYS recommend people start with freshwater first, then move on to Saltwater or brackish down he road.

    4. For a planted aquarium, most use a type of substrate that is rich in nutrients, such as Eco-Complete. They then top that off with sand or something as a full substrate bed of Ec0-Complete or something similar can get very pricey.


    Anything else, don't be afraid to ask :)
    Don't call it a comeback, I've been here for years.

  3. Default

    Thanks for the answers! Here are some more. I hope I'm not asking too many questions.


    What all do you need to test in the tank?

    What should the levels be?

    Which testers are the best and most accurate?

    What do you need to do daily, weekly and monthly?

    What percentage of the water should be changed when doing a partial water change?

    How often should a partial water change take place?

    When doing a partial water change, do the fish need taken out?

    Do you ever need to do a complete water change?

    Do you need to change the substrate at all? And if so, how often?


    ETA-Another question I just remembered.
    What is Co2 for?
    Last edited by Captivated by Fish; 04-08-2009 at 09:20 PM.

  4. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Captivated by Fish
    Thanks for the answers! Here are some more. I hope I'm not asking too many questions.


    What all do you need to test in the tank?
    Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH are the main ones, liquid test kits recommended
    What should the levels be?
    Ammonia 0, Nitrite 0, Nitrate under 20 (cycled)
    Which testers are the best and most accurate?
    API is a good brand
    What do you need to do daily, weekly and monthly?
    Check temps daily, feed, count fish, weekly water changes test pH, nitrate, monthly check to make sure all equipment is fine and working
    What percentage of the water should be changed when doing a partial water change?
    Most people do 15% to 50% Changes depending how heavily stocked your tank is
    How often should a partial water change take place?
    Should be weekly
    When doing a partial water change, do the fish need taken out?
    Nope just vacuum gravel and refill and treat water
    Do you ever need to do a complete water change?
    In most cases NO, unless something got contaminated in the tank
    Do you need to change the substrate at all? And if so, how often?
    Not usually unless your using supplemental substrate which takes a while to go bad

    ETA-Another question I just remembered.
    What is Co2 for?
    Its for plants, to help them grow faster

    Answers are in red
    In my 29 gal:
    4 serpae tetras
    1 Flame tetras
    1 Zebra Danio
    1 German Blue Ram

    In my 55 gal:
    Trigun's 55g Tropical Community!
    6 Glo-lite Tetras
    4 Emerald Corys
    1 Dwarf Gourami
    4 Peppered Corys
    25 Neon Tetras

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Captivated by Fish
    Thanks for the answers! Here are some more. I hope I'm not asking too many questions.


    What all do you need to test in the tank?

    What should the levels be?

    Which testers are the best and most accurate?

    What do you need to do daily, weekly and monthly?

    What percentage of the water should be changed when doing a partial water change?

    How often should a partial water change take place?

    When doing a partial water change, do the fish need taken out?

    Do you ever need to do a complete water change?

    Do you need to change the substrate at all? And if so, how often?


    ETA-Another question I just remembered.
    What is Co2 for?
    1. General testing for Freshwater will be for Ammonia, NitrItes, and NitrAtes. P.H is another thing you will want to keep an eye on.

    2. The ammonia and nitrIte levels should always be 0 in a cycled tank, while the Nitrate level will be 20ppm or less. This will be kept down by your water changes.

    3. ApI is a popular test kit. Try to stay away from the strips as they tend to not be too accurate.

    4. Daily- Check fish for signs of stress, aggression, etc. Remove uneaten food and plant parts that may have died. Feeding (of course)

    Weekly- I do a 30% water change weekly, as well as checking for algae build-up on the glass and removing that with a scraper. Every 5-6 days i also do a water test, just to confirm that the tank is healthy.

    Monthly- Check filter media, replace 1/2 of whatever may need to replaced.

    5. I do 30%, but it may depend on your nitrAte levels, if your nitrAte is high, a larger water change will be in order.

    6. I do Mine Weekly :) however, sometimes I'll do one after testing if the nitrAte level is undesirable.

    7. No, they can be kept in the tank, however depending on the water level, you will want to unplug your heater and possibly your filters if removing the water takes the water line below where it needs to be on the Units.

    8. A complete Water change? Not as part of your regular tank duties. There are some cases where one would be needed, but that's only in the case of a serious problem.

    9. No, you shouldn't have to change your substrate, however with each water change its recommended to stir up the substrate if it is sand, to loosen and remove and air pockets that could develop to be toxic. If you have gravel, its best to use a gravel vac to vacuum the substrate with each water change. This removes uneaten food and fish waste that may get stuck.

    10. Co2, in a tank with only fish is not needed. Co2 only needs to be introduced to the tank in the case of a planted tank where the plants require it as part of their cycle.
    Don't call it a comeback, I've been here for years.

  6. Default

    I want to do a planted tank when I start one. How much Co2 would need to be used, and how often?

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    westminster. SC
    Posts
    3,401

    Awards Showcase

    For your generosity! - Sir Tristen Thanks! - Wild Turkey Because your cool :) LOL - lovleeko Thought you could use some good algae. Is there such a thing. LOL - lovleeko stocking Rams - Algenco 
    reducing my stock - Algenco don't want to be overstocked - Algenco More algae for your BN's - toddnbecka Something for your tank,  and for being a good sport. - Brookfish Congratulations on your awards - Celtic Fins 
    Happy Easter! - Northernguy thanks for the help and the encouragement - mommy1 have a happy easter banana - mommy1 thanks for the rep, sorry it's late! - lucyinthesky You need another! lol - Northernguy 
    Congrats on your award! - Brookfish for all the encouragment - mommy1 Glad the surgery went well!!! - Gayle No Message - mommy1 Glad you came through the op ok mate! - Brookfish 
    Breast Cancer - Birth Parents - bushwhacker 

    Default

    you really need to start off with low light low tech plants starting right off with a pressurized co2 system is just gonna confuse you ... you would need to have much higher lighting and understand the ferts and balancing everything java ferns, java moss, crypts and anubias are all good plants to start with
    The only substitute for good manners is fast reflexes.
    RIP Roscoe. We will meet again Bug.

  8. Default

    Could you explain it to me? It may not confuse me. I'm really curious about co2.
    I have heard of those plants before.
    How hard are Sword plants to grow? I really like the Red Rubin Sword, Narrow Leaf Chain Sword and Amazon Sword plants.
    Do the type of plants you grow depend on what fish you keep?
    Last edited by Captivated by Fish; 04-08-2009 at 10:33 PM.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    westminster. SC
    Posts
    3,401

    Awards Showcase

    For your generosity! - Sir Tristen Thanks! - Wild Turkey Because your cool :) LOL - lovleeko Thought you could use some good algae. Is there such a thing. LOL - lovleeko stocking Rams - Algenco 
    reducing my stock - Algenco don't want to be overstocked - Algenco More algae for your BN's - toddnbecka Something for your tank,  and for being a good sport. - Brookfish Congratulations on your awards - Celtic Fins 
    Happy Easter! - Northernguy thanks for the help and the encouragement - mommy1 have a happy easter banana - mommy1 thanks for the rep, sorry it's late! - lucyinthesky You need another! lol - Northernguy 
    Congrats on your award! - Brookfish for all the encouragment - mommy1 Glad the surgery went well!!! - Gayle No Message - mommy1 Glad you came through the op ok mate! - Brookfish 
    Breast Cancer - Birth Parents - bushwhacker 

    Default

    i cant really explain co2 to you as i dont use it on my tanks but it is a complicated and fairly expensive thing to start up... swords arent that hard to grow they are heavy root feeders so you need to get root tabs to help them out... there are a lot of people here on the forums that can help you out on co2 if thats what you decide to do... you can post in the plants section and you'll get all the info you need.. as for plants and fish remember one thing any cichlid is going to rearrange your tank to his liking so that really neat aquascape that you spent all day arranging probably wont be there tomorrow
    The only substitute for good manners is fast reflexes.
    RIP Roscoe. We will meet again Bug.

  10. Default

    Okay, I'll post in the plant section. I don't think I want to get cichlids, at least to begin with.

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