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Thread: 20g FW to SW

  1. #21

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    0 Not allowed!
    Okay, so it would be worth investing the extra $20 to get that instead of a hyrgometer? I think the answer is yes, but I just want to be sure. And another question. Does the clown goby require pods?

  2. #22

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    hygrometer measures the humidity not the salinity

  3. #23

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by xximanoobxx
    hygrometer measures the humidity not the salinity
    lol. Sorry, I meant hydrometer. I'll have the plan up in a few minutes.

  4. #24

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    alot better investment, hydrometers arent always accurate

  5. #25

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    Okay, thanks for that info, still wondering about clown goby.
    And here comes the plan...

    Starting Plan

    Tank size: 20g
    Lighting: 2x65w PC
    Substrate: Sand with aragonite
    LR: 10 20lbs.
    Clean-up crew: Turbo snails x? Cleaner shrimp x?
    Fish: 2 oscellaris clowns and a clown goby



    QT:

    Tank size: 10g
    Lighting: 15w fluorescent
    Substrate: none
    LR: none
    Decor: plastic object(for hiding)
    EDIT- Filter: sponge filter


    Medicine Cabinet:

    Formalin
    Sodium Bicarbonate
    De-wormer
    Maracyn Two

  6. #26

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    0 Not allowed!
    the QT still needs LR, it's the most important thing in the SW aquarium...
    U also might want hermit crabs, astreas, nassarius, or cerith..
    U also need powerheads.. I recommend Koralia 1...
    Also protein skimmers are recommended but not required..
    U need a heater...
    U need a thermometer...
    U need a SW keeping book for research purposes....
    Aragonite is pretty much the sand... It's not sand with aragonite..
    it's pretty much aragonite crushed into pieces..
    U need to research more before getting into SW

  7. #27

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    IDK why I left out the heater and thermometer. I was also thinking a Koralia Nano powerhead(fits my budget better, although paying an extra couple bucks for a Kor. 1 isn't too bad).

  8. #28

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    What else do u need?

  9. #29

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    0 Not allowed!
    You may not want to rely on sodium bicarbonate entirely for your buffering. Something I just recently learned from a university professor about using it is that over a period of time, sodium bicarbonate actually will lower your salinity. The bicarbonate gets used great and does a wonderful job of buffering but the sodium ion has to go somewhere and it ends up lowering your salinity. You can fight against that without too much difficulty, but be aware that if you are going to use sodium bicarbonate as your buffer you need to periodically check your salinity and adjust it as necessary. I personally use it and I know Kaybee does as well, but I check my salinity everyso often, Just a heads up.

    You need to look into you CUC a bit more as well. Not all critters eat the same thing. If you can get you hands on a couple of back issues of Tropical Fish Hobbyist, there was a great pair of articles recently on reef CUCs. It explained what each snail and hermit ate and how they contributed to the clean up.

    Have a look at the Fission Nano Protein Skimmer. They are a good choice for a small tank.

    You also need to look into getting more live rock. 20 lbs would be the absolute bare minimum you should get. 30lbs would be better.
    Considering a Marine Aquarium? A Breakdown of the Components, Live Rock, Cycling a Marine Tank

    "The capacity to learn is a gift; The ability to learn is a skill; The WILLINGNESS to learn is a choice." - Unknown

  10. #30

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by ILuvMyGoldBarb
    You may not want to rely on sodium bicarbonate entirely for your buffering. Something I just recently learned from a university professor about using it is that over a period of time, sodium bicarbonate actually will lower your salinity. The bicarbonate gets used great and does a wonderful job of buffering but the sodium ion has to go somewhere and it ends up lowering your salinity. You can fight against that without too much difficulty, but be aware that if you are going to use sodium bicarbonate as your buffer you need to periodically check your salinity and adjust it as necessary. I personally use it and I know Kaybee does as well, but I check my salinity everyso often, Just a heads up.

    You need to look into you CUC a bit more as well. Not all critters eat the same thing. If you can get you hands on a couple of back issues of Tropical Fish Hobbyist, there was a great pair of articles recently on reef CUCs. It explained what each snail and hermit ate and how they contributed to the clean up.

    Have a look at the Fission Nano Protein Skimmer. They are a good choice for a small tank.

    You also need to look into getting more live rock. 20 lbs would be the absolute bare minimum you should get. 30lbs would be better.
    Lol, guess who used 9 lbs of dead rock, 10 lbs of live sand, waited 2 weeks, added 2 lbs of live rock a minute before acclimating his first fish who was only drip acclimated for 5 minutes, and was able to have a coral polyp grow under 15 watts of T8 light in a 20g/housed a tomato clown for nearly two months? Oh, also, my shrimp shedded twice since I got him, and he was only drip acclimated for 5 minutes.
    Written in red...
    Last edited by Tigerbarb; 10-05-2008 at 04:04 PM.
    "Everybody knows, you only live a day, but it's brilliant anyway..."
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    20g nano reef
    55g FOWLR saltwater
    29g planted freshwater
    10g planted freshwater

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