***My ambitious project explained!! ***

**Pawlu** · 08-02-2008, 05:09 PM

Hello everybody,

I'm a newbie to the forum, I'm currently in the planning stages of a new project which I hope to complete by the end of the year, I'm restricted with time and money so I have allowed myself plenty of time. It would be great to have more experienced people follow me through with this project as I describe my goals. I will supplement my project with pictures and schematics, so for those ambitious folks please jump on:

Summary of project:

Set up a 75 Gallon freshwater cichlid tank on the first floor of my house, create a 46 gallon sump/trickle filter in the basement (below the aquarium) and run the plumbing through the floor. I will also have a semi-automated system that will allow me to perform a water change from the first floor with the use of bypass valves. I already have a cold water line and drain pipe in the basement just below the tanks future spot. I will have control of the plumbing and electric water pump from inside the tank cabinet. The end result I'm hoping for is:

1)Super quick water changes in 6 steps without getting my hands wet. (10min max)
2)Super silent operation all equipment will be located below the floor.
3)Super efficient filtration with a monster 46 gallon sump/filter.

I will work on drawing out a diagram and posting it here, the best way to describe this plan is visually.

In the meantime I'm looking for help on how to build a freshwater sump and how to prevent sump overflow in the event of pump failure.

Once again thank you.

**Drip Loop** · 08-02-2008, 05:56 PM

Hell, if thats your plan than why not just go for a larger tank. Perhaps a 125 :P

**Pawlu** · 08-02-2008, 06:05 PM

I already have both tanks, and cannot afford a larger tank, keep in mind that weight apart from expense is also another factor. 75 Gallons is the largest tank I can safely have on the first floor, I'm probably going to support the floor with a steel post anyway. Anything heavier then a 75 gallon is going to stress the floor joists.

**bushwhacker** · 08-02-2008, 11:25 PM

i cant imagine any home built in the last 50 years not having the strength to support a 125 gallon tank (30 years in construction) but if your worried 2 screw jacks and a header under your floor joists will support anything you want to put in there

**ILuvMyGoldBarb** · 08-02-2008, 11:32 PM

Originally Posted by bushwhacker

i cant imagine any home built in the last 50 years not having the strength to support a 125 gallon tank (30 years in construction) but if your worried 2 screw jacks and a header under your floor joists will support anything you want to put in there

Agreed. I have a 125 gallon reef tank sitting on my floor.

Anyway, since you already have the tanks it really is a moot point to talk about support. As for setup, I have a friend in WI that has his reef setup that way. The biggest thing you need to be concerned about is the max head height of the pump you plan to use. With the sump in the basement and the tank on top, you are looking at somewhere around 10 feet from the pump to the actual return nozzle. A lot of pumps will have an auto-shutoff feature at a set height. The back pressure created by the weight of the column of water will shut down the pump. I would highly recommend you look into using an inline pump by Little Giant or Iwaki(sp?).

**Pawlu** · 08-03-2008, 12:28 AM

Bushwhacker you are probably right about the weight, I wish I could afford at least a 125 gallon but that's out of the question for now. So you don't think I should even bother with screw jacks, the house is 2 years old?

ILuvMyGoldBarb: Yes I'm aware about the pump head height, at my LFS the guy was showing me a couple of models capable of 14 to 18 feet head height, they were both external inline pumps.

With regards to the sump filter which is going to be a baffle filter similar to this one: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Baffle_filter.JPG do you think that the flow of water coming from approx 7 feet will be too much? My concern is the height, although I can control this with the thicknes of the pipe correct, no matter the height water can only flow as thick as the pipe will allow it to?

Another question I have is do I need to drill my main tank, is there really need to in this kind of a set up? What are the advantages are there to drilling a tank?

Finally I did some research on overflow boxes, again is there a need for one if my output tube will be towards the top of the tank, in the event of power failure the tank will only drain till the level of the output tube?

Thank you everybody for your help, once I gather enough info I will start the project and start posting pictures.

**C-Dub** · 08-03-2008, 04:03 PM

Isolated sumps are awesome, but do get a bit tricky as most situations are very unique to the setting. My sump is right under my tank and it took a lot of playing around to get my water flow right. Each situation is unique because just a few more inches pumping up and everything is different. Just remember that Ball Valve's are your best friend and you can oversize your pump to reduce stress by adding a bypass line directly back into your sump. This is an old thread That I threw a few pics in, I know the situations ar very different but it explains the bypass pretty well... http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ight=sump+pump

**Pawlu** · 08-04-2008, 07:29 PM

C-Dub, I was unable to see any pics of your sump model with bypass valves, I would like to see how you are using a Ball valve and Bypass Valve to control your water flow.

**C-Dub** · 08-05-2008, 08:29 PM

oh i'm sorry here is a pic.

I know the picture isn't the greatest so bare with me.

Looking towards the bottom right is my pond master 950 water pump. Coming up from the top of the pump I have a 3/4" Barbed-to-Threaded Female adapter. Out of that is clear {3/4"} tubing which leads to a "barbed pvc T-type fitting".

Going off to the left is my bypass line which leads directly back into the sump. I have also added a "3/4"Ball Valve" with 2 "Barbed-to-threaded male pvc adapter fittings". The valve allows me to adjust the water moving up towards the tank, hence giving me ideal water movement. Also I have used a 1" PVC 2-hole strap to hold the Ball Valve out of the water in the sump.

The tubing going up is the feed back into the main tank which is then separated up top into two adjustable jets pushing the water in opposite directions.

**Pawlu** · 08-06-2008, 11:11 AM

So you open and close your bypass valve (On the left) to reduce the flow going up to the tank? And I'm guessing the thick white meshed tube is your return?