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07-13-2008, 09:33 PM #11
You shouldn't have to adjust your heater to compensate for extra heat except maybe turn it up. Your heater should automatically shut off when at or above the set temperature. If pumps and lights add heat the heater should simply turn off, not be set any lower. Setting it lower allows it to drop when lights are off, allowing for temp instability. As stated stability is vital. So if your lights raise it two degrees, really you need to raise the heater temp two degrees so the temp stays stable. This way if the lights are adding heat, the heater will just turn off and the temp will remain stable.
07-13-2008, 09:43 PM #12
My lower heater temp doesn't really make a difference since I only have Power Compact lighting, I just keep it turned lower because it was higher and I picked 76. Powerheads and a return pump can add a lot of heat to the water.
If you are using metal halide lighting then the only way to avoid temp fluctuation from night to day is by using a chiller during the day to keep the temp down and the heaters during the night to keep it up.
07-13-2008, 09:49 PM #13
Yeah, I was thinking if the heat is bumping up that much cooling efforts are warranted, which may include a chiller if other cheaper methods fail (or a cooler lighting system).
07-13-2008, 09:52 PM #14
If you have the money to shell out for one, the new LED systems are incredible. Extremely energy efficient and 0 heat transfer. Even better than that, they can be used to accurately simulate a day/night cycle and the phases of the moon.
07-13-2008, 09:54 PM #15
No money for that, and I already ordered the Coralife T5 anyways. It will cost me about $35 or so.
07-13-2008, 09:56 PM #16
0Originally Posted by ILuvMyGoldBarb
Any links to these systems? I would love to check one out.
07-14-2008, 02:21 AM #17
My heater kicks on at 77.5 degrees and during the day the lights get me to a shade below 79 degrees.
BTW, I've done some reading (I can't remember where) that suggests temperature fluctuations on a reef are quite large varying 5-10 degrees in as little as an half an hour. So, I'm wondering where this notion of necessary consistency in our tanks came from? Or is my research just way off?
- Bill90G Reef Build Thread
90 Gallon Reef: Ocellaris Clowns, Midas Blenny, Ignitus Anthias, Various inverts
20 Gallon SW Quarantine: Exquisite Wrasse
10 Gallon SW Quarantine: Empty
55 Gallon Community: Neon Tetras, Gold Neon Tetras, GloFish, Corydoras (paleatus & trilineatus), Otocinclus, Mollies, Platies, Apple Snails
5 Gallon: Crowntail Betta, African Dwarf Frog
07-14-2008, 02:41 AM #18I am a Fish!! Wels catfish
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
Mine is at 82F but I might slowly notch it down to about 80F.
07-14-2008, 04:27 AM #19
0Originally Posted by spudbuds
Corals originating from reefs which routinely experience significant temperature fluctuations have adapted to those conditions, and are capable of adapting to even harsher conditions (such as being completely exposed to the air, tropical sun and even rain while out of the water for hours during low-tide conditions which occur on a routine basis). The effectiveness of these adaptions (including tolerance to temperature flucuation) tends to fade when those corals are removed from those environments.
Different types of corals have different types of tolerances, and even corals of the same species in different locales have different tolerances. As an example, the Australian Institute of Marine Science states, "corals at Magnetic Island in the central Great Barrier Reef can happily stand 30.5°C (87F) for 20 days, but just 90km away at Davies Reef, the same species of corals will bleach within a day and at Great Keppel Island in the southern Great Barrier Reef, they would be dead within a day."
Providing stable temperatures eliminates the possibility of temperature stress.
Last edited by kaybee; 07-14-2008 at 04:32 AM.African cichlid and saltwater aquariums
07-14-2008, 02:01 PM #20
0Originally Posted by oldhead