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  1. #1

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    Default Getting back into it with a 10 gallon


    0 Not allowed!
    Okay so let me start with apologizing for any out-dated, wrong, or kooky information I may have... it's been 10 years since I've been in the fish world, and that was when I was 15... so, I could use any help I can get x)
    I do work with a guy that's very into the fish world - he has many different sized tanks of shrimp, just plants, fish, etc and I've gotten a lot of information from him, but I just want a broad range and to also find out if anything has really changed in the last 10 years or not lol.

    So another coworker is giving me all of their supplies for a 10 gallon, everything except a stand, heater, and a fish net of all things haha. What 'everything' means, I'm not sure yet since I'm at work right now and everything is in bags in my car. Once I get home, I can probably put up a list of all of the things I have to see if anything needs changed. I do know that it was an established tank for over a year, but I don't know if that means anything for the equipment.

    I plan to keep the aquarium in a corner of my room now empty after losing my pigs, by a covered window. I know exposure to natural light in a glass tank can build algae, but I'm not concerned with that really.
    I'm going to get a stand this weekend and get the tank set up, but I've heard mixed information compared to what we used to do, so this is the start of my questions!

    Cycling
    We never really let our tanks cycle more than a day or two to let the dust settle from the gravel/sand, and even still, usually just put our fish right in after roughly 15 minutes to an hour of acclimation. We never lost a fish doing it this way, but now all of a sudden I'm reading things about cycling a tank for 6 weeks? Seems a bit extreme to me, but I know everyone has their own routine.

    Water Changes
    Again, we rarely changed the water in our tanks. I know the 100s got changed maybe once every year to year and a half, the smaller tanks maybe once every 6 to 8 months. We bred angels, frontosa's, and bolivian rams in a few of the tanks we had and they never suffered or passed from a lack of more regular changes. Now I'm reading smaller tanks need a water change once a week? The guy I work with only does 1/3 water changes every month in his smaller tanks and his seen fine.

    Fish Compatibility
    I've been told many things about compatibility with the fish I want to get and I know that at least two of the ones I want are going to be fine together - a male betta (probably a halfmoon) and a school of neon tetras. My coworker said that with a Betta being a top of the tank fish, the neons will be hanging around in the middle, that I could also have something like cories or a bristlenose. I definitely want some kind of bottom feeder/algae eater, so I was considering the siamese suckers since they're eat all kinds of algae and my tank is next to a window. My parents say that cories will harass the betta and neons, yet I see them on every list for compatibility with neons and betta. I know they can be feisty, but will they be a problem if I go that route? Also, I'll have gravel in my tank so I'm worried that if I get cories, will the gravel make their barbs sensitive? I really like cories and based on research, I really like the siamese too.

    Overcrowding
    This is the part I'm mostly concerned about. I'm familiar with the 1in per gallon rule, but I was also told by my coworker that it's flexible with smaller fish. He said that I could easily have the one betta, 8-10 neon tetras, and at least 5 cories or 2-3 siamese if the tank is heavily planted (which I plan on doing), but he keeps stressing a bristlenose (which I'd rather not have). I don't mind other suckers, I just don't want a bristlenose unless I can find a starlight for a reasonable price.

    Plants, Decorations, Etc
    I want the tank to look as natural as possible. The tank I was given has semi-natural looking gravel with what looks like blue gravel as well. Definitely not what I'm looking for, I'm more into the shades of brown gravel usually found in communities. I want a good amount of live plants, only supplementing with fake if I have to. We used to put fakes in the back and real in the front to cover most of the fake, but to also save some money on plants that aren't really seen. I'd love to put a piece of driftwood in there, as well. Mostly, I just want to make sure that the betta, neons, and whatever else will all be happy. I've done a fair amount of research on the fish on the internet, but I'm not wholly comfortable trusting an article over people's opinions and experience. I'm the most worried about using gravel with cories or anything with feelers as I don't want them to get injured from the gravel, but I'm definitely not interested in using sand unless it's better for the fish. I know that neons like to zoom around things and love things like moss balls and short grasses, but I also like not being able to see my fish 100% of the time, so some ideas on plants mostly would be amazing!

  2. #2

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    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    Cycling

    Amount of time for a total cycle hasn't changed. A fish in cycle still took at least 6 weeks. You just didn't plan on cycling your tank way back when.

    Water Changes

    You never really paid attention to the TDS (total dissolved solid) levels of the water. Look up old tank syndrome, the concept has been around for more than 10 years. Once folks realized that schooling fish can live up to 8 years, and larger fish up to 15 years (frontosas) as a result of regular water changes, their outlook changed. The cories that you are planning on can live up to at least 19 years with the right care.

    Fish compatibility

    If you have the right water chemistry, hardness, PH, TDS levels, the compatibility goes up. Less stress for the fish with the correct water parameters, the more likely they will be less aggressive.

    Cories do better with sand, about #20 mesh size like pool filter sand. Not too fine and not to rough. Lots of planted tanks use sand with cories.

    Overcrowding

    1" per gallon rule is an old wives tale. The more water for the fish the better. Even in a heavily planted tank, the less fish you have the better. The amount of waste that a single fish puts out doesn't get negated by 1 plant. So for a 10g tank, you're better off sticking with less than 10 fish total. Decide if you want a well planted tank or a fish tank with plants.

    You're better off with a 20g long than a 10g. The more water you have, the more diluted pollution will be.

  3. #3

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    Default


    3 Not allowed!
    Good advice above.

    Read as much as you can in the Beginner section of the forum, especially the Cycling stickies...a fishless cycle is my preferred method, no water changes, less stress on you and the fish...my fishless cycles took right at 3 weeks to complete, then you can add all of your fish at once

    With a 10G, your options are limited with the amount of fish yoiu can have, obviously...one betta and some neons would be fine...regular corys get too large for a tank that size, and they are social fish that need to be in groups...pygmy corys would work, however...plecos and SAE's are a no-go with a 10G tank, they get too big and have huge bioloads

    Many here perform water changes once a week, the amount of water changed depends on the tank and it's inhabitants, and planted vs. non-planted...I change about 50% of the water in all of my tanks weekly
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  4. #4

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Apologies to the OP in advance.

    Does ANYONE here have the ability to view this post as "new"?
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  5. #5

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Slaphppy7 View Post
    Apologies to the OP in advance.

    Does ANYONE here have the ability to view this post as "new"?
    It came up in 'New Posts' for me. But that feature doesn't always work for me.
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  6. #6

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I agree with above, but I wanted to comment on using sand as a substrate. I used to prefer gravel, wouldn't have thought about sand until I found Pool Filter Sand. It has a larger grain than play sand and doesn't tend to get sucked up with the siphon. The stuff I get is either grey or off white. It's great for plants to root in and keeps waste on top to siphon up instead of falling thru the gravel, getting caught and becoming a breeding ground for pathogenic bacteria. Because I like the look of gravel, I add a fine layer sprinkle of pea gravel as a final substrate layer. That way I still get a natural look and detritus doesn't get stuck.
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  7. #7

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    0 Not allowed!
    If you use gravel, just make sure it is smooth and rounded if cories are added. They can do well but if you have the option, sand would be preferable. And choose a smaller cory - maybe habrosus cory, one of the dwarfs. Definitely stay away from the pleco or SAE. Otocinclus can be an option to these, but keep in mind, 10g is really limiting as far as total stocking. It can definitely be a fun tank to create if you're smart with your choices.

    Your lighting will have an impact on the plants you can keep, but some easier, lower light ones to look at are: Java fern and anubias (attach to rock or driftwood) and crypts (many species - look at Wendtii, green or bronze). Water wisteria (Hydrophila difformis) is a stem plant that is easy to grow but will need some maintenance. It's great as a background plant as it grows tall. You'll have to cut them down from time to time, but the tops can then be replanted, increasing the density of this grouping.

    Depending on the type of filter you have, if your fishkeeper co-worker is willing to give you some of his already seeded filter media, that will help with cycling the tank. Just don't let it dry out between his tank and yours.

  8. #8

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    It came up in 'New Posts' for me. But that feature doesn't always work for me.
    Thanks Kat....with the issues we are having with the new server, I'm afraid new members may be having problems viewing new posts on their threads
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal
    40 Gallon Breeder: ... Journal
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    “If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went” - Will Rogers

  9. #9

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Slaphppy7 View Post
    Thanks Kat....with the issues we are having with the new server, I'm afraid new members may be having problems viewing new posts on their threads
    I found that the most reliable way to circumvent the New Posts page fiasco is to either tag the member or quote part of their question in your reply. This way the new members can simply click on their new notifications alert when they visit the site and be taken directly to their discussions. Kind of relies on the assumption that they know how to find their notifications, of course, but I do it out of habit just to help increase the odds of the OPs finding a way back to their threads.

  10. #10

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Slaphppy7 View Post
    Thanks Kat....with the issues we are having with the new server, I'm afraid new members may be having problems viewing new posts on their threads
    I fixed the problem by making the thread not be moderated. It was looking for all posts to be approved first before showing up as a new post. Not sure how the thread was created to be moderated.

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