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Results 11 to 15 of 15
  1. #11

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    to AC!
    Sil's 2nd Time Around 75G...Journal
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  2. #12

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    0 Not allowed!
    Perhaps that is the case...it would be nice to hear back from the OP, to confirm that he/she is able to view the new posts.
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal
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  3. #13

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rocksor View Post
    I fixed the problem by making the thread not be moderated. It was looking for all posts to be approved first before showing up as a new post. Not sure how the thread was created to be moderated.
    If that was the case then why were the rest of us able to see the new posts in the thread?

  4. #14

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    2 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by doggone_dizzy View Post
    Okay so let me start with apologizing for any out-dated, wrong, or kooky information I may have... it's been 10 years since I've been in the fish world, and that was when I was 15... so, I could use any help I can get x)
    I do work with a guy that's very into the fish world - he has many different sized tanks of shrimp, just plants, fish, etc and I've gotten a lot of information from him, but I just want a broad range and to also find out if anything has really changed in the last 10 years or not lol.

    So another coworker is giving me all of their supplies for a 10 gallon, everything except a stand, heater, and a fish net of all things haha. What 'everything' means, I'm not sure yet since I'm at work right now and everything is in bags in my car. Once I get home, I can probably put up a list of all of the things I have to see if anything needs changed. I do know that it was an established tank for over a year, but I don't know if that means anything for the equipment.

    I plan to keep the aquarium in a corner of my room now empty after losing my pigs, by a covered window. I know exposure to natural light in a glass tank can build algae, but I'm not concerned with that really.
    I'm going to get a stand this weekend and get the tank set up, but I've heard mixed information compared to what we used to do, so this is the start of my questions!

    Cycling
    We never really let our tanks cycle more than a day or two to let the dust settle from the gravel/sand, and even still, usually just put our fish right in after roughly 15 minutes to an hour of acclimation. We never lost a fish doing it this way, but now all of a sudden I'm reading things about cycling a tank for 6 weeks? Seems a bit extreme to me, but I know everyone has their own routine.

    Water Changes
    Again, we rarely changed the water in our tanks. I know the 100s got changed maybe once every year to year and a half, the smaller tanks maybe once every 6 to 8 months. We bred angels, frontosa's, and bolivian rams in a few of the tanks we had and they never suffered or passed from a lack of more regular changes. Now I'm reading smaller tanks need a water change once a week? The guy I work with only does 1/3 water changes every month in his smaller tanks and his seen fine.

    Fish Compatibility
    I've been told many things about compatibility with the fish I want to get and I know that at least two of the ones I want are going to be fine together - a male betta (probably a halfmoon) and a school of neon tetras. My coworker said that with a Betta being a top of the tank fish, the neons will be hanging around in the middle, that I could also have something like cories or a bristlenose. I definitely want some kind of bottom feeder/algae eater, so I was considering the siamese suckers since they're eat all kinds of algae and my tank is next to a window. My parents say that cories will harass the betta and neons, yet I see them on every list for compatibility with neons and betta. I know they can be feisty, but will they be a problem if I go that route? Also, I'll have gravel in my tank so I'm worried that if I get cories, will the gravel make their barbs sensitive? I really like cories and based on research, I really like the siamese too.

    Overcrowding
    This is the part I'm mostly concerned about. I'm familiar with the 1in per gallon rule, but I was also told by my coworker that it's flexible with smaller fish. He said that I could easily have the one betta, 8-10 neon tetras, and at least 5 cories or 2-3 siamese if the tank is heavily planted (which I plan on doing), but he keeps stressing a bristlenose (which I'd rather not have). I don't mind other suckers, I just don't want a bristlenose unless I can find a starlight for a reasonable price.

    Plants, Decorations, Etc
    I want the tank to look as natural as possible. The tank I was given has semi-natural looking gravel with what looks like blue gravel as well. Definitely not what I'm looking for, I'm more into the shades of brown gravel usually found in communities. I want a good amount of live plants, only supplementing with fake if I have to. We used to put fakes in the back and real in the front to cover most of the fake, but to also save some money on plants that aren't really seen. I'd love to put a piece of driftwood in there, as well. Mostly, I just want to make sure that the betta, neons, and whatever else will all be happy. I've done a fair amount of research on the fish on the internet, but I'm not wholly comfortable trusting an article over people's opinions and experience. I'm the most worried about using gravel with cories or anything with feelers as I don't want them to get injured from the gravel, but I'm definitely not interested in using sand unless it's better for the fish. I know that neons like to zoom around things and love things like moss balls and short grasses, but I also like not being able to see my fish 100% of the time, so some ideas on plants mostly would be amazing!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rocksor View Post
    Cycling

    Amount of time for a total cycle hasn't changed. A fish in cycle still took at least 6 weeks. You just didn't plan on cycling your tank way back when.

    Water Changes

    You never really paid attention to the TDS (total dissolved solid) levels of the water. Look up old tank syndrome, the concept has been around for more than 10 years. Once folks realized that schooling fish can live up to 8 years, and larger fish up to 15 years (frontosas) as a result of regular water changes, their outlook changed. The cories that you are planning on can live up to at least 19 years with the right care.

    Fish compatibility

    If you have the right water chemistry, hardness, PH, TDS levels, the compatibility goes up. Less stress for the fish with the correct water parameters, the more likely they will be less aggressive.

    Cories do better with sand, about #20 mesh size like pool filter sand. Not too fine and not to rough. Lots of planted tanks use sand with cories.

    Overcrowding

    1" per gallon rule is an old wives tale. The more water for the fish the better. Even in a heavily planted tank, the less fish you have the better. The amount of waste that a single fish puts out doesn't get negated by 1 plant. So for a 10g tank, you're better off sticking with less than 10 fish total. Decide if you want a well planted tank or a fish tank with plants.

    You're better off with a 20g long than a 10g. The more water you have, the more diluted pollution will be.
    Quote Originally Posted by Slaphppy7 View Post
    Good advice above.

    Read as much as you can in the Beginner section of the forum, especially the Cycling stickies...a fishless cycle is my preferred method, no water changes, less stress on you and the fish...my fishless cycles took right at 3 weeks to complete, then you can add all of your fish at once

    With a 10G, your options are limited with the amount of fish yoiu can have, obviously...one betta and some neons would be fine...regular corys get too large for a tank that size, and they are social fish that need to be in groups...pygmy corys would work, however...plecos and SAE's are a no-go with a 10G tank, they get too big and have huge bioloads

    Many here perform water changes once a week, the amount of water changed depends on the tank and it's inhabitants, and planted vs. non-planted...I change about 50% of the water in all of my tanks weekly
    Agree with all of the above comments. The 10 is too small for plecos and SAE can get to be 6" and very thick bodied. A nerite snail or 2 would be better for algae duty. If you can fit it, get the biggest size tank you can. 20 long is better than a 10, 29 is better than a 20 long, 40 breeder tanks are awesme sized tank. Just because everyone sell a beta in a spit of water doesn't mean they don't love to be in big bodies of water. I have had many betas that lived their lives in a 75 gallon, I currently have one in a 40 gallon tub that will finish her life in a 125 gallon tank once I finish the background on the tank.

    Sand is hands down the best substrate; 1. its easy on the corys, 2. its easy to clean and keeps "gunk" on top, 3. plants do well growing in it. Gravel is harder to keep clean and corys need clean water, its also easier for a cory to scavenge off sand then to try and get into all the nooks and crannies associated with gravel. Sand also isn't coated with epoxy-so many "natural" aquarium gravels today are.

    As for cycling and water changes, it will depend on your stocking. Did you fill the tank to the gills (so to speak) after the "acclimation" period, or did you slowly stock your tank over a period of time? If the latter then you were cycling with fish and didn't know it.

    Water changes also depend on stocking. If the tanks had a breeding pair and nothing much else (substrate wise) and were fed highly efficient foods (=little waste) then not doing water changes for a month is a possibility. However I always ask people if they would like to be stick in a 8'x10' room for a month breathing re-circulated air? I know I wouldn't, open that window and let some fresh air in! Doing a water change is the same. I do weekly water changes from 25% to 80% depending on my stock (the 75 gallon with minimal plants and goldfish get 80%). My tanks with shrimp that is almost 80% plants get a water change monthly-because the shrimp get fed once a week. Again you can get a feel for what your tank needs.

    Unfortunately the tank being by a window will ensure you will be fighting algae from the start so you will be looking for some nutrient hogs for plants; stem plants like watersprite, hornwort, foxtail, elodea/anarchis are some aquatic plants that take up a lot of nutrients in the water column and could compete with algae. Floating plants like water lettuce or frogbit would work too, I would not recommend duckweed as your betta will need to go up for air and duckweed will be a problem with covering the surface sooner rather than later. Its also a PITA to remove and just one will make thousands in a short period of time. Rooted plants like swords and crypts absorb more nutrients from the substrate so wouldn't bee efficient in out competing the algae.

    Of course you could paint the back and/or sides of the tank black or another dark color to limit the sunlight somewhat, it will make the fish and plant colors stand out as well.

    Fish compatibility comes down to multiple things; the fish water parameters (pH, GH, temp), natural environment; one a white water river fish the other a stagnant pool fish, will one fish eat the other, territorial to other fish, will one fish be too active for the other and stress the other out or out compete the other food wise...etc. Try to research where the fish natural lives and see if the other inhabitants fit within the specs. Sometimes it works-sometimes it doesn't work out.
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    DebinWhitmore

  5. #15

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by BluewaterBoof View Post
    If that was the case then why were the rest of us able to see the new posts in the thread?
    Post count wasn't going up on the thread originally, even if the new posts could be read.
    Last edited by Rocksor; 08-19-2019 at 11:34 AM.

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