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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Dec 2018
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    Default Nitrite levels really high... not sure if accurate


    0 Not allowed!
    Hi all.

    Let me give you cronology of what i did with my tank, to understand the situation.

    - tank was kept for 1 week to cycle without fish. during this time just fish food added.
    - Day 7 fish were added. Day 14 some more fish were added. all was good for 2 weeks (i.e. day 30), then fish got Ich. until the time i realised what's going on, and it took a while due to inexperience, sadly half of them died. :(
    (During this time, i think a lot of overfeeding was done)
    - i treated the tank, ich disappeared, all other fish are now healthy and well. One that was really affected by ich and i thought will die actually made a full recovery, now looks very well, his fins back to normal and very lively and well.
    - i read about overfeeding and the problem it causes. i tried to clean the tank very well and discovered it was so full of waste under the gravel, that there was no way to vacuum it all unless doing a million water changes. so i decided to clean the tank completely - removed all water, changed gravel with new one, cleaned walls. I put the fish back and all of the remaining fish look very healthy and happy and eat and play, etc. so it seems it was a successful operation

    - two more weeks passed, my fish still look like they have the time of their lives. my API freshwater master test kit finally arrived. so i started testing the wateeer.
    And this is what i get:
    PH: 7.4
    Ammonia: 0.25
    Nitrite: 5 (or more who knows, test kit has max 5 but it looks very similar)
    Nitrate: 0

    so what does this mean, having so much nitrite?
    did the cycle start again because of the complete water and gravel change? i didn't clean the decorations and i kept the filter, didn't rinse it or anything at that time.
    is the test broken? it expires in 2023 and i agitated that bottle like crazy, tested 3 times and same thing. btw after the first test when i saw 5ppm nitrite, i did a 50% water change and after that tested 2 more times, once after 30 min and once after 12 hours. Both tests still 5ppm.
    i read that nitrites are highly toxic and fish might not be able to breathe, but i see no such signs. they never go out to surface to get air or anything else that could indicate they have problems breathing, as i said they look perfectly fine and happy.

    What should i do next?

  2. #2

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    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    You have Ammonia and nitrIte, your tank is not cycled.
    I'd recommend 50% water changes daily until nitrIte is under 1ppm. I'd also recommend to use Seachem Prime as a dechlorinator as it binds Ammonia and nitrIte up to a combined 1ppm while still allowing them to be utilized by your nitrifying bacteria and continue the cycling process. Until your tank is cycled but once your nitrIte is under control you should perform 20%-30% water changes daily. Cycling generally takes 4-8 weeks to establish. Sometimes longer sometimes less.

    What size tank?
    How many and which kinds of fish?
    What is your feeding schedule?
    Do you have a gravel vacuum?

  3. #3

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    15 gallons tank.
    currently just 7 fish: 3 hawai variatus platy, 3 male guppies, 1 blue dwarf gourami. (these are the survivors of the ich)
    in the past 2 weeks i only fed them once per day and very very little (basically they eat everything in less than 5 minutes). Now i am thinking of feeding them every other day, not sure if that's good.
    i have a gravel vacuum, i vacuum the gravel (well it is actually fine sand, not gravel) at every water change. and until now i was doing a 25% water change per week.

    50% water change per day seems a lot of overhead, especially given that fish look really great even now, and i was doing one 25% water change per week. Or am i wrong to think that?

  4. #4

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    3 Not allowed!
    You need to do a large enough WC to get that trIte level to .25 PPm or less

    Large daily water changes are in order, until the tank is cycled

    Read and follow the directions here: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492
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  5. #5

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    0 Not allowed!
    Alright, so i'll start doing 50% water changes daily then.

    i still find it weird that after yesterdays 50% water change, the Nitrite remained 5ppm. Shouldn't it be cut in half? or at least some reduction of some sort...

  6. #6

    Join Date
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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I agree you need to do at least 50% until you get those nitrites under control and the tank is cycled.

    What type of filter do you have on a tank? If your filter comes with a removable cartridge that they recommend that you dispose of on a regular basis do not dispose of it. This cartridge is primarily where your beneficial bacteria are growing off of. Your best bet is going to be researching bacterial media and swapping out that cartridge with a mixture of bacterial foam and bacterial media that will provide a permanent home for your bacteria. This means you'll never throw this away and when needed you will gently rinse it out in tank water or water that you have preconditioned to remove any harmful chemicals like chlorine or chloramine.

    I would show you but I guess we are still not able to upload photos.
    5.5g- Shrimp tank
    Tub Tanks
    5g Opa Ulae salty tank
    Fish room-*pending*


    TUB tanks:
    5.5 Shrimp Tanks
    Goldfish Tank
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  7. #7

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by alex.mares View Post

    i still find it weird that after yesterdays 50% water change, the Nitrite remained 5ppm. Shouldn't it be cut in half? or at least some reduction of some sort...
    As you mentioned earlier, the highest amount of trIte the API test will indicate is 5 PPM...you could have much more than that, hence the reading not changing after a 50% WC

    I'd change almost all of the water in that tank, daily, until those trItes are under control

    If you have a nearby faucet with a screw-off aerator, one of these would make your WC's MUCH easier

    https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Pytho.../dp/B000255NXC
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal
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  8. #8

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Thanks for the detailed post.. I'm glad the ich is gone and the fish are acting ok. Unfortunately because you didn't have a test kit at first, your tank was probably not cycled enough for fish. Adding more before the nitrogen cycle can catch up exasperated the sitch.
    So.......you are cycling with fish in now. Don't worry, you can fix it, it just might take some time and lots of changes.

    Have you seen this sticky yet?
    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492
    Are you familiar with the nitrogen cycle?

    Which water conditioner are you using?

    So, as you know, feed sparingly and perform water changes when needed while the tank cycles, it will, just be patient and keep the fish safe.
    Last edited by angelcraze2; 01-31-2019 at 03:19 PM.
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  9. #9

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Do 2 water changes on the same day with the water level just above the dorsal fin of the fish. Your nitrites should be less than 5ppm by then.

    Test using a liquid test. Test strips are next to useless.

  10. #10

    Join Date
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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    So in lieu of photos, here is a quick video;

    5.5g- Shrimp tank
    Tub Tanks
    5g Opa Ulae salty tank
    Fish room-*pending*


    TUB tanks:
    5.5 Shrimp Tanks
    Goldfish Tank
    Fish Room
    Salty Shrimp


    DebinWhitmore

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