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Thread: Hello

  1. #11

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    1 Not allowed!
    to AC!
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  2. #12

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    2 Not allowed!
    Nice! You already have a test kit :) That 54g corner tank sounds dreamy, I love the look of those tanks and they take up less space.

    If you'd like to start a journal, here is where to start it :)
    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...play.php?f=113

    I like journals because they are very specific for you and we can answer all your questions there and help you along. Plus, everything is documented for you to reference later (I know I have found it very useful in this regard)

    I would increase the cardinal tetra school, they are incredible schoolers and you'll see some dynamic behavior the more you have. I would shoot for at least 8, 10 would be splendid. The otos appreciate more of their own kind, 6 is my suggestion. Oh and the cories school well, I really feel a group of 6 minimum would be your best bet. They swim together along the substate, you can't beat a nice group of cories for the bottom.

    Are you really familiar with the nitrogen cycle? I'm asking because it's regarded the number 1 info to know before keeping fish no matter where you go. I feel it's so important to know like the back of your hand ;)
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  3. #13

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    Nice! You already have a test kit :) That 54g corner tank sounds dreamy, I love the look of those tanks and they take up less space.

    If you'd like to start a journal, here is where to start it :)
    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...play.php?f=113

    I like journals because they are very specific for you and we can answer all your questions there and help you along. Plus, everything is documented for you to reference later (I know I have found it very useful in this regard)

    I would increase the cardinal tetra school, they are incredible schoolers and you'll see some dynamic behavior the more you have. I would shoot for at least 8, 10 would be splendid. The otos appreciate more of their own kind, 6 is my suggestion. Oh and the cories school well, I really feel a group of 6 minimum would be your best bet. They swim together along the substate, you can't beat a nice group of cories for the bottom.

    Are you really familiar with the nitrogen cycle? I'm asking because it's regarded the number 1 info to know before keeping fish no matter where you go. I feel it's so important to know like the back of your hand ;)
    I agree on the appearance of the corner tank plus I really didn't have good wall space to put a regular tank.

    I should start a journal just so later on I can laugh at how stupid I was when I started this tank. I'm keeping a paper log currently to keep track of any changes/additions I make. this way when something goes wrong perhaps I can find out the reason.

    I agree on the cardinals, their great to watch, but I don't know about that many cories and otos because of the footprint of the tank. I'm thinking it would get too crowded on the bottom.

    As regards to the nitrogen cycle, I filled the tank and added tap water treatment & bacteria. I tested the water the next day with the test kit, ammonia, nitrite & nitrate were at 0 and PH was at 7.6. A few days later I went to my local fish store and had them retest. Everything was still at 0 and PH read 7.2, and they recommended I put some hardy fish in the tank to help establish it. So i bought 6 black mollys (2 male & 4 female) and some plants. Amazingly two days later and they're still alive and getting used to the tank.

    My Python clean & fill kit will be here tomorrow, so I will begin my weekly water changes. I filled it using buckets, never again. Do you think I should add bacteria with the water changes?
    2018-11-11.jpg

  4. #14

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    1 Not allowed!
    The bacteria you need to cycle a tank occurs naturally, no need to add anything.

    Since you are doing a fish-in cycle, you will need to monitor water params daily, and do WC's as necessary: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

    Mollies are livebearers, and livebearers usually breed like crazy, so be prepared for that
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  5. #15

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    0 Not allowed!
    You don't have to add bacteria once the tank cycles and becomes established. It's not actually necessary as mentioned for reasons mentioned, but I use it for insurance when setting up a quarantine tank or I register ammonia for some reason and have no other tank to borrow nitrifying bacteria from. The idea is to add it with the fish so that as they expire and produce ammonia (aka food for the bacteria), the bacteria have something to feed on and convert it to nitrite. The bacteria is also equipped with nitrobacter bacteria to convert nitrite to nitrate. Theoretically, if it takes, a complete 'instant cycle". But testing every single day, sometimes more than once is imperative to keep the fish safe and take appropriate action to protect them. If you add the nitrifying bacteria too early, the bacteria could starve. If you don't know what i'm talking about (lol) I really encourage you educate yourself, because I feel it's so very important to know.

    Although you got some hardy fish, no fish is immune to ammonia and nitrite poisoning, so you'll want to make the nitrifying cycle happen safely for your new molies. Fortunately there are now ways to do that.

    Seachem Prime water conditioner
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002...em+prime&psc=1
    Is an important thing to have if you didn't already pick it up with the fish, especially while fish-in cycling. It temporarily creates an ionic bond with ammonia to convert it to a much less toxic form, for 48 hours, at which time the bond degrades and ammonia becomes highly toxic again. It also makes nitrite safe in a similar fashion (not sure if it's exactly the same way). It can get a bit complicated with free ammonia and bonded ammonia vs total ammonia, but you'll want to make sure there is no toxic ammonia in your tank with water changes and Prime dosing. The idea is for ammonia to be processed by the filter before the ionic bond degrades, same with Nitrite. Nitrate is removed via water changes and is not as toxic as the other two. It's normal for nitrates to accumulate, and its presence is considered a sign that you are cycled when ammonia and nitrite have reduced to 0ppm. Then you'll want to keep nitrates under 20ppm (10ppm is better) with water changes.

    Sorry it's so long, there is more to add, but I wanted to mention some things and make sure you were familiar with it I have no idea how things were years ago or when these processes started.
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  6. #16

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    .......Do you know your water's hardness? A test kit goes a long way to learning about fishkeeping today.
    API test kit
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HK...fDL&ref=plSrch.......
    The API Freshwater Master Test Kit was one of the first things I bought. Unfortunately, it doesn't test for hardness. I contacted my local water supply company and either they were stupid or lazy, but they wouldn't tell me. So I went to my local WallyWorld and picked up a Tetra 5in1 EasyStrips - KH=40 GH=75.

  7. #17

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    ....Although you got some hardy fish, no fish is immune to ammonia and nitrite poisoning, so you'll want to make the nitrifying cycle happen safely for your new molies. Fortunately there are now ways to do that.
    Seachem Prime water conditioner
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002...em+prime&psc=1
    Sorry it's so long, there is more to add, but I wanted to mention some things and make sure you were familiar with it I have no idea how things were years ago or when these processes started.
    When I filled my tank, I added API Tap Water Conditioner. Is that a similar product?
    Years ago when I first had fish, we let the tap water just sit for a couple of days, made sure the temperature was good then added the fish and they lived. No water lesting at all.

  8. #18

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    1 Not allowed!
    Yeah, that's what I thought as regards to the practices before. Most manucipalities use chloramines in the water which is a bond between chlorine and ammonia. When using dechlorinators that don't detoxify ammonia, you are just dealing with the chlorine and ammonia is set free. Prime is the most popular water conditioner that neutralizes chloramines (chlorine plus ammonia) AND detoxifies ammonia. That is what you need to protect your fish during the cycling process. I don't believe API water conditioner detoxifies ammonia.
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  9. #19

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    2 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Ricksza View Post
    The API Freshwater Master Test Kit was one of the first things I bought. Unfortunately, it doesn't test for hardness. I contacted my local water supply company and either they were stupid or lazy, but they wouldn't tell me. So I went to my local WallyWorld and picked up a Tetra 5in1 EasyStrips - KH=40 GH=75.
    Your water is not very hard. You could go for the fish you are considering no problem. Unfortunately you are right, the API master kit does not include a hardness test. I went ahead andx bought a seperate API kh/gh liquid test. They are more reliable than test strips, but your test gave a good enough idea if it's accurate enough. Kh is about 2 degrees, gh maybe just under 4. Just to caution you, since kh is so low, you'll want to make sure it doesn't drop below that. Kh is what keeps your pH stable, gh does but to a lesser degree.

    My tap water is very similar to yours, but my gh is lower. I tan into problems when I first started. My kh was consumed and pH dropped. When pH drops below 6.5, nitrosomanas bacteria is inhibited, so ammonia can easily creep in. If pH drops to 6 or lower, all nitrifying bacteria is inhibited. I didn't have an ammonia protecting conditioner yet and my fish were gasping at the surface with each water change. Since more ammonia vs ammonium is present in water the harder the water is, I was transforming the ammonium to ammonia with each water change. Since my water conditioner didn't protect against ammonia, my fish were suffering. I corrected it quickly once I figured it out, but I learned the hard way. I feel I've got it down pat now, but I wish someone had talked to me about this when I first started. Now it's too easy to find info.

    Here's some info and a diagram I keep on hand for reference
    Screenshot_20180426-122631.png

    55444dc2fab6c8610259137bab3aae99.gif
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  10. #20

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    .......the API master kit does not include a hardness test. I went ahead and bought a seperate API kh/gh liquid test.....
    Wow, the chart is really interesting, so much information. Thanks

    I also ordered the API KH/GH test kit to supplement the Master Kit, I just don't trust the strips I checked my water yesterday: PH 7.0, Hi PH 7.4, Ammonia 0.25, Nitrite 0 & Nitrate 0. So far, so good.

    When I filled my tank, I used API Tap Water Conditioner. Think I'll pick up some Prime to handle the Ammonia just in case it starts to increase.

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