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  1. #1

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    Default How to tell if your cycle has stalled


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm so confused. Has my cycle stalled a while ago?

    My test are

    PH 7.6
    Ammonia either 0 or .25
    Nitrite 0
    Nitrate either 5.0 or 10. My tap water is 5.0

    By the look of the picture you would think my cycle is complete,but I know my tap water has a Nitrate of 5.0. Wouldn't my Nitrate go above 10 if it is cycled?

    image.jpg

    image.jpg
    180 Gallon:
    1-Motoro Stingray
    1- Mantilla hybrid Stingray
    1- Black Henlei/Leopoldi hybrid Stingray
    1- 14" Spotted Gar

    40 gallon Breeder grow out tank:
    1- 6 Tiger Shovelnose Catfish

  2. #2

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    put the vial against a white background so that it is touching

    th numbers for 10-20ppm look the same, so it could very well be around 20ppm already

  3. #3

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Also why is my PH 7.6-7.8? Post another picture later.
    180 Gallon:
    1-Motoro Stingray
    1- Mantilla hybrid Stingray
    1- Black Henlei/Leopoldi hybrid Stingray
    1- 14" Spotted Gar

    40 gallon Breeder grow out tank:
    1- 6 Tiger Shovelnose Catfish

  4. #4

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    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    If your pH is reading 7.6 (blue) then double check it by doing a new test using the High pH testing solution. You might find that the true pH is 7.4.
    Also your ammonia vial looks like it is not completely yellow. Maybe a .25?
    Last edited by Silbar; 11-04-2018 at 02:01 PM.
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  5. #5

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I did a high PH test once and got 7.8. I also think my ammonia is .25,but weeks ago the ammonia would start showing .25,.50 1.0 much faster. Now it takes a few minutes to possibly reach .25 if that's what it is.
    Also what I posted in my other thread was I may have had problems with my Nitrite test being accurate not sure,but before it would go purple like .50 now it stays light blue every test.

    What are some signs of a stalled cycle? I did not have this problem,but I read online if you do a Nitrite test and it goes purple and a few minutes later it turns back to blue that means your cycle stalled.

    Also is it possible I don't have enough filtration?
    Last edited by freshwaterfishlover; 11-04-2018 at 03:17 PM.
    180 Gallon:
    1-Motoro Stingray
    1- Mantilla hybrid Stingray
    1- Black Henlei/Leopoldi hybrid Stingray
    1- 14" Spotted Gar

    40 gallon Breeder grow out tank:
    1- 6 Tiger Shovelnose Catfish

  6. #6

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    The nitrite situation you mentioned just means that you have more nitrites in the tank then 5.0ppm which is the max that your test kit can read. It doesn't mean that the cycle is stalled.

    How are you adding ammonia to the tank, and when is the last time you did it?
    "They had learned to speak, and so had won their first great victory over Time. Now the knowledge of one generation could be handed on to the next, so that each age could profit from those that had gone before." 2001: A Space Odyssey
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  7. #7

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm adding fish food. I added food Saturday night. I add every two days because my Ammonia does not go above .25 now and it never went above 1.0.,but I may have had nitrite at one point,but now it is regularly blue. Is there a way to post a video?

    Ow a side note: I was going to start over yesterday and use Tetrasafe start, but at Petsmart I would had to paid $60 for 180 gallons. Also they did not have a gravel water changer.
    Last edited by freshwaterfishlover; 11-05-2018 at 12:11 PM.
    180 Gallon:
    1-Motoro Stingray
    1- Mantilla hybrid Stingray
    1- Black Henlei/Leopoldi hybrid Stingray
    1- 14" Spotted Gar

    40 gallon Breeder grow out tank:
    1- 6 Tiger Shovelnose Catfish

  8. #8

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Much cheaper just to use 10% ammonia than fish food, bind the ammonia with Prime (everyday) and wait for the ammonia to go to 0ppm. The unpredictability of using fish food keeps ammonia in the system too long.

    No point in starting over.

  9. #9

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rocksor View Post
    Much cheaper just to use 10% ammonia than fish food, bind the ammonia with Prime (everyday) and wait for the ammonia to go to 0ppm. The unpredictability of using fish food keeps ammonia in the system too long.

    No point in starting over.
    Are you saying when my Ammonia goes to 0ppm my tank will be cycled or when the Ammonia goes to 0 I will see Nitrite? I haven't seen a nitrate spike. Have seen only 5.0 or 10ppm from my tap water and it's more like 5.0ppm.
    180 Gallon:
    1-Motoro Stingray
    1- Mantilla hybrid Stingray
    1- Black Henlei/Leopoldi hybrid Stingray
    1- 14" Spotted Gar

    40 gallon Breeder grow out tank:
    1- 6 Tiger Shovelnose Catfish

  10. #10

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    Happy Christmas! - Slaphppy7   Happy V Day! - WhistlingBadger   Happy Holiday to you! - Boundava   Merry Christmas! - Slaphppy7   My fish say thanks - KoryKat   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by freshwaterfishlover View Post
    Are you saying when my Ammonia goes to 0ppm my tank will be cycled or when the Ammonia goes to 0 I will see Nitrite? I haven't seen a nitrate spike. Have seen only 5.0 or 10ppm from my tap water and it's more like 5.0ppm.
    1) Ammonia=Nitrite= 0ppm (Day 1)
    2) Add ammonia on day 2 (add prime as well), then on day 3 ammonia=0ppm nitrite =0ppm

    Both conditions met means you are cycled. You can add fish on day 3 after a water change to bring nitrates below 20ppm or feed the tank ammonia (plus prime) every other day to maintain cycle until you get fish.

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