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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    Default Help Requested: Newbie setting up new 90G Tank


    0 Not allowed!
    Hi everyone,

    I've had a 10G goldfish tank for a few months and loved taking care of them! I've been loving this hobby so much that I have just placed an order for a 90G tank that will arrive next weekend! Yippie!

    I intend to keep freshwater fish. In some years, I'd like to graduate to a planted tank, but I will start with plastic decor for now. Will likely keep fish that are what PetSmart would call "needs intermediate knowledge" to handle. So, maybe rainbows to start me off? Eventually, would love a cichlid tank, but maybe not to start off with.

    And here is where the questions start! Looking for lots of advice, so whatever you have, please send it my way. I have the following questions to start off, but I don't know what I don't know - so any additional advice you have for a newbie is welcome.

    1. Which canister filer should I get?
    I am thinking of getting a Eheim Classic 2217. Why? Because I hear it lasts forever, is easy to take care of, and has biological filtration. I hear the filter cartridges are more expensive, but I'd rather pay a little more for cartridges than for fish replacement. Any advice would help

    2. Which light should I get?
    Given that I eventually want to have plants, I'd rather go for a light that can eventually support plant growth. I read that "Finnex Planted+ 24/7" is a good choice. Is it? Are there any disadvantages to getting a light for plants even when I don't have plants? Any other brands/models that I should consider?

    3. Which heater and how strong?
    I was thinking of getting that EHEIM Jager 300W. I assume I'll need 300W for a 90G aquarium. Will 1 heater be enough given the tank is 4ft wide? Should I instead think of getting 2 smaller heaters, one for each side?

    4. Air pump, tubing and air stone: Do I even need these?
    I heard from one of the aquarium shop keepers that this is really only helpful if I like the aesthetics of it. Otherwise, I could skip it. I was thinking of skipping it. Should I?

    5. Cycling my tank: Whats the best resource?
    I have been reading up on cycling and am reading a lot of different opinions. Are there any instructions that have worked well for you that you could point me to?

    6. Gravel and decoration: When should I get this?
    I am going to get the gravel now so I can cycle the tank with the gravel in it, but was thinking of waiting on the plastic decorations until I can decide exactly what fish I want.

    7. Lastly, when I am ready, what fish should I consider?
    Any handy guides you can point me to?

    Lots of questions, but I want to do things right and keep happy healthy fish. Any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated?

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
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    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    Just a few comments for you:

    Seriously consider starting with live plants - they're not all that difficult and provide benefits both aesthetically and as far as water quality is concerned. You can start with just a few, see what works in your tank, and easily add others later. Along with this consideration, you'd want to add some more natural decor such as driftwood and/or rocks and of course an appropriate substrate. It will be much more trouble to switch over to a more natural look later, especially if the chosen substrate doesn't support plants very well (although, there are plants that will work in most any substrate). If you do decide to stick with artificial plants in the beginning, look for silk plants rather than plastic - softer material that is less likely to cause issues with fish.

    I don't use canister filters so someone else can help you there. But I think some people use an "in-line" heater with these canisters, which is external to the tank - ask them more about those. For a tank that size, a second heater as backup should one fail, may be a good idea. For in-tank heaters, also look at the Cobalt Neo-therm heater. I've had the Eheim heater before, (which is a good one) but I was just never able to calibrate it properly and it drove me crazy - but that's just me. The cobalt needs no calibration.

    I have 4 of Finnex's older lights and they've been solid and I prefer them over my 2 Current Satellite lights. I don't have the 24/7 model (yet) as I can't really justify the expense while my other lights are still going strong. But I want one lol.

    Here are 2 stickies re: fishless cycling

    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640

    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...d.php?t=125481

    Have patience while cycling the tank and use the time perhaps to add/move/change decor around (plant plants) while you wait to add fish.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Your first puffer fish! - Slaphppy7   Good luck with the cycle! - Slaphppy7   Happy Christmas! - Slaphppy7   Shrimpies sure are fun to keep - Slaphppy7   For luck with the betta situation - Slaphppy7   

    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    I would consider transfering the goldfish from the 10G to the 90G, since 10 gallons is far too small for any amount of goldfish... Goldfish have massive potential for growth and produce incredible amounts of waste, so they will fare much better in a bigger tank. You could keep the goldfish in the 90G alongside a couple of other cooler water fish. The goldfish will display much more entertaining behavior if they are kept in a more suitable environment, and will grow to their full size and beauty!

    Then, you can turn the 10G into a nanotank and keep exotic shrimp, and maybe dwarf gourami or a Betta fish in there instead.

  4. #4

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    0 Not allowed!
    Putting the goldfish in the 90g will severely limit the options for this tank, unless the OP wants goldfish as his primary stock. My reading of his initial post was that he was looking to go more tropical with this one.

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Your first puffer fish! - Slaphppy7   Good luck with the cycle! - Slaphppy7   Happy Christmas! - Slaphppy7   Shrimpies sure are fun to keep - Slaphppy7   For luck with the betta situation - Slaphppy7   

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by SueD View Post
    Putting the goldfish in the 90g will severely limit the options for this tank, unless the OP wants goldfish as his primary stock. My reading of his initial post was that he was looking to go more tropical with this one.
    I understand where you are coming from, I just see OP keeping the already-existing goldfish in a completely unsuitable tank, and then purchasing a perfectly suitable tank, so I can't help but try to convince them to use this as an opportunity to maximize the goldfish's quality of life and then do something tropical with the 10G instead...

    Of course, OP is free to do as they wish with their tank and their fish but I definitely think a change in plans is worth considering if OP is into the idea.

  6. #6

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Some really good insights here - thanks everyone!

    Some followups: (I'll use the numbering scheme from my original post for ease of tracking)

    3. I checked out in-line heaters. They are more expensive, but if you all suggest that they are the way to go over submersible ones, then I could give them a try. Do I still need a backup heater even if I get the in line heaters?

    6. I hear the solid advice on NOT starting with plastic plants and instead doing live plants. I love it! I had initially thought that as a relative newbie, doing cycling, new plants, new fish could all be overwhelming, and so just do the cycling and fish first. So which plants are relatively hardy for a newbie to start off with? I also like the idea of adding some driftwood to start with.

    8. Transferring goldfish: I can certainly do this if it helps cycle the tank faster, but I do not want to use the 90G for goldfish. Can I still cycle the tank with goldfish and then move them bacnk to the smaller tank or gift them?

    I am so glad I have you all to help advice. Otherwise, i would have been so lost!

  7. #7

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    2 Not allowed!
    I honestly would rehome your goldfish if you wish to graduate to a planted tank. I recommend starting out with plants, the hardscape you intend to use and fishless cycling. Here's a link to the sticky on fishless cycling in case you haven't seen it already :)
    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
    -Kat

  8. #8

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    Your first puffer fish! - Slaphppy7   Good luck with the cycle! - Slaphppy7   Happy Christmas! - Slaphppy7   Shrimpies sure are fun to keep - Slaphppy7   For luck with the betta situation - Slaphppy7   

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    1 Not allowed!
    6. It's hard to go wrong with Anubia, java fern, java moss, or criptocorine plants! Marimo balls are also fun.

    8. I would go for a fishless cycle and then just gift the goldfish to someone who can keep them in a bigger tank. The links that Sue and AngelCraze sent you included instructions on how to do that (:
    Last edited by bubblaroo; 02-03-2018 at 08:43 PM.

  9. #9

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    1 Not allowed!
    This is for Sue!

    20180203_155512.jpg

    I missed you already posted links on fishless cycling.
    Last edited by angelcraze2; 02-03-2018 at 09:01 PM.

  10. #10

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    3 Not allowed!
    Referencing the same #'s above:

    3. Hopefully someone with a canister filter and in-line heater will chime in here to help you. I just don't have experience with these.

    6. For a start, look at some of these, which I would consider easy, low to mid-light, need no CO2 added:
    a) cryptocoryne (crypt) species: Wendtii green or bronze (probably most common), Undulata, Willisii, Lucens. and there are many more
    b) hygrophilia species: difformis, corymbosa, angustifolia - many others
    c) anubia species: nana, barteri, coffeefolia, hastifolia - many other. Anubias are not planted in the substrate, but rather are tied or glued to driftwood or rocks.
    d) Java fern species: there's a regular one, a narrow leaf, and a windelov, may be others, also. Like anubias, these would be tied or glued to wood or rocks.

    8. You'd be better off doing a completely fish-less cycle using ammonia. Cycling with fish is not only harmful to the fish, it takes longer and requires frequent water changes to keep the ammonia level down enough so that the fish is not killed in the process. With a fish-less cycle, you will not have to change water until the cycle is complete - which will take several weeks. The last step in the cycle is the develop of nitrates, which are reduced to safe levels by a large water change before introducing your fish. Then, weekly water changes will keep the nitrates at a safe level (helped by your live plants), while the beneficial bacteria built up during cycling will process the ammonia and nitrites to a level of zero. Here's a chart (bottom of pg) to determine the amount of ammonia to start with: http://www.fishforums.net/aquarium-calculator.htm I would recommend starting with a level of 3 for that size tank.

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