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Thread: Molting issues?

  1. #11

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    0 Not allowed!
    Come to think of it.... I only have the one small net, usually only used to recapture shrimplets from display tank.... I did use it to catch the last two CPD fry when they went to their new home.

    For whatever reason I never suck up shrimplets in the cull tank, bigger syphon I think.

  2. #12

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    0 Not allowed!
    Whatever is up all the shrimp look great every day twice a day when I check everyone.... Then they just are dead and at least one was swimming on his side across the bottom of the tank. Everyone always appears healthy. But I have that huge Crypt and stone in the display tank, and cull tank is a Christmas moss and crypt Jungle so realistically its very very easy for a shrimp to be out of sight if it's ill.

  3. #13

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    0 Not allowed!
    So everything I'm reading tonight mentions copper, back to my water report.... I'm a dunce. As much as I studied it working out ferts I completely ignored copper readings or misread them. Copper at the tap averaged .392 in 2016 (my most recently available report) which after scouring for a different answer, much to my dismay is pretty much the top end for neos and I feel like a terrible keeper for not knowing this. Moving to the dry ferts they have a scarcely higher amount of copper than seachem (which precipitates out in my water especially iron)... I did pay attention to copper in my ferts but not on my report... Gah darn it.

    Alright so copper and I'm just hitting their limits I think... Water changes will help, kind of, stopping ferts will help, kind of. Either way I'm at that top end and having dealt with fairly dramatic swings in chemistry at the tap seasonally before I imagine copper can tick up or down as well and that or the ferts or a combination of the two is likely my issue.

    I guess I should get a bit more serious about RODI or some sort if copper filtering. I could run some Cuprisorb but that's not practical long term. I think a small RODI unit mostly to remove metals is in order. I'll still run tap in the mix rather than even trying to test my hand at a full move to RODI. I really want to keep parameters as close as possible to everything else in the house but I'm thinking that copper needs to come down one way or another so I'm not running such a fine line.

    Not interested in running full RODI and remineralizing, and the huge transition that would be. Also not interested in the maintenance costs that adds to my tanks. But if anyone has tips on an inexpensive, easy to install, small unit that has inexpensive replacement filters and can do metals (I think they all do metals?) I'm interested in hearing. I literally mean small, it'll have to go off my washer hookups and as I have a small house and no space, my work space is literally the top of the dryer. :)

    Challenges Challenges lol this darn water here I swear it wants to break me! One thing after another, no such thing as an easy tank in this town, I'm convinced lol

  4. #14

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    1 Not allowed!
    You are using Prime, right?

    From Seachem, http://www.seachem.com/support/forum...0-prime-dosage

    post #10

    To answer your other question about Prime and heavy metals: the standard dose of Prime (1 mL/10 gallons) will remove:

    Copper - 2.6 ppm in 10 gallons
    or
    Lead - 8.5 ppm in 10 gallons
    or
    Nickel - 2.4 ppm in 10 gallons

    We say "or" between each because that is the maximum amount of each that can be removed assuming none of the other components are present. So for example, one could remove 1.3 ppm of copper and 4.4 ppm of lead or any other variety of differing ratios between them. The relative order of preferential removal should be in the order of lead, then copper, then nickel.
    post #17

    1. Prime will bind the ions mentioned, but only after Zn, Cu, Fe, and Mn are bound and there is left over chelators. The stability constants are much higher for the original ions mentioned.

    2. Since this reaction occurs immediately, it will not effect any micro nutrients that are added 10 minutes later.

    3. Prime contains a chemical that will form complexes with metal ions.

    4. You can add Trace 10 minutes after using Prime and those ions will not get bound, but will be available for plant utilization. The levels in our Trace product is based on a general plant requirement for growth and maintenance
    post #19

    Prime remains active in the water column for up to 48 hours, however, the specific component that binds the metals will typically be used up in a short amount of time if the source water contains metals. However, lets say you add it to RO water with absolutely zero metal content, then yes, you would want to wait 24-48 hours before adding any trace elements, as that component would not be diminished until Prime is no longer active. Does that make more sense?
    Last edited by Rocksor; 02-06-2018 at 01:53 PM.

  5. #15

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    0 Not allowed!
    Good info, thanks Rock
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  6. #16

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    0 Not allowed!
    Yes I use Prime :)
    Alright Rocksor, I understand the meaning of ions and how they are bound in a vague discriminating way.... Do you know or by chance can you lend a hand?
    So Prime can bind bind them but does it bind them in the same fashion as Ammonia, nitrIte and nitrAte where those complexes are easily broken back down to the original components after 24-48 hours or does it bind metals/minerals differently? Obviously it has capacity to bind what I have in my tap (according to the report and Seachems statements above) so I assume if it's wavering it would still have plenty of leeway.... But if it's not holding the complex bond then everything is being re-released within a couple days if it's not utilized... And if that's the case can the complexes created be utilized by the plants?

    If it does bind indefinitely to create the complexes with the metals/minerals.... Then are the mineral compounds (although assumedly harmless now) building in the tank? If so how would one go about removing them before something breaks that bond? Scientifically speaking there's a myriad of ways any chemical bond can be broken and the components can be released? I'm not technically inclined in chemistry per se but understand the basic concepts well enough to know that it's got to go somewhere and metal compounds over time, I assume, is going to end up in my filtration or substrate as it's unlikely to entirely hang around the water column for easy removal.

    Answering this is unlikely to resolve my issue but my curious mind is wanting to know... Might help me figure out my best approach to lining myself out, here, in the long run.

  7. #17

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    0 Not allowed!
    From the way that Prime works, as I understand it, the only one temporarily bound is ammonia. Everything else is changed, and removed via water changes or consumption.

    The heavy metals found in city tap water are normal levels allowed for human consumption. Prime does not work on levels of metals in water that are not safe for human consumption.

  8. #18

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    0 Not allowed!
    Thanks Rocksor, I'll dig around tonight at work, see what I find also. And just FYI I do not drink our tap water myself but would assume anything put through the tap is safe unless otherwise notified by the water department. :)

  9. #19

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    0 Not allowed!
    Never mind....
    Houston I have a problem, insert curse words.

    The front Amano shrimp. Bacterial I assume? Treat it like fish or Kanaplex in the food? Oooorrrr? How fast does this stuff go? I don't have that heater yet it's sitting with Prazipro in my Amazon cart so qt is going to get cold if I move them 60's for sure probably low 60's. And of course I'm fresh out of IAL, used the last 3 moving out my synos more should be here in a couple days. So shrimp issues any ideas on my next step. I don't even know if I should qt since it's fresh setup and no biofilm... Cull? Im going to assume I'm not able to see it in the cherries no matter the grade, until seeing it in person I didn't realize how difficult seeing it through their opaque shells would be. I'm so disappointed I could spit, these tanks haven't seen a day with nitrAtes over 20 and I somehow feel like I caused this and nailed both tanks at once.

  10. #20

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    0 Not allowed!
    I don't know what causes that.

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