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Results 11 to 20 of 26
  1. #11

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    1 Not allowed!
    Nice haul, congrats.

    You need an established tank with a good amount of algae growth before adding otocinclus.
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  2. #12

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    0 Not allowed!
    Ok so this is the only one that is not improving. I’m wondering if it is just die off from going to fully aquatic.
    5558CAC1-7816-474B-909D-F598C9405BAA.jpg

    Also I was looking at the green leaf ferts and was wondering if anyone had and advise of wether EI or PPS is better? The pps seems like a more efficient use of them but that is just my cheapness showing through. Lastly am I correct that I can buy the package for pps and if I want to do EI later I’d have all the fertilizers needed to

  3. #13

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    1 Not allowed!
    Neither method is really superior to the other, just depends on your own particular goals/style. EI ensures that more than enough nutrients are available for the plants, but requires a large "reset" water change at the end of the week to bring your nitrates back down. PPS is a leaner method that allows smaller and less frequent water changes. I use EI for most of my tanks, but I PPS dose in my high-grade caridina tank because that tank uses 100% RODI water that needs to be re-mineralized. It wouldn't be convenient for me to have to do 50% water changes each week on that tank (RODI units are sloooooooow and I don't have room for a reservoir tank). On top of that, I want to keep my nitrates as low as possible in that tank. PPS dosing gives me a much more gradual TDS and nitrate creep than EI.

    You can buy either package from GLA. They both come with the same amounts of each compound. The only difference is that with the PPS package you get the two 500mL dosing bottles and you also get a pound of magnesium sulfate (MgSO4). I have multiple tanks that all use different concentrations, so instead of getting the bottles from GLA ($10 for two 500mL bottles) I buy packs of those plastic squeeze safety bottles ($9 for five 500mL bottles) off Amazon Prime. The trade-off is that the bottles from GLA automatically measure out your doses for you as you just squeeze the bottle and it slowly fills up a little separate compartment that has 5/15/30mL increments, then you take the cap off and pour in what you measured out. Hard to describe but if you look at photos of the bottles on their website you'll see what I'm talking about. I just use an old cough syrup lid that has the same increments marked out on it. You can also pick up a 6lb bag of MgSO4 (plain epsom salt) from Walgreens for ~$6 if you don't want to get the PPS package from GLA. Not sure why GLA doesn't include it in the EI package as it is just as important as iron and other trace/micro elements for good color and healthy growth.
    Last edited by BluewaterBoof; 11-13-2017 at 04:19 PM.

  4. #14

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    1 Not allowed!
    Ok I’m just going to get the EI package as I have a big bag of Epsom salts. The bottles are the same as for stabil fuel stabilizer kinda handy but not for the price. I want to get an ultra preside lab grade pippet. It’s like a pump that u can quickly connect disposable tips to. Are there any good sites or pictures that show pictures of different deficiencies all in one place. Kinda like those cool Cichlid ID posters

  5. #15

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    1 Not allowed!
    In my experience, each site and chart that you look at will have different deficiencies listed for the visible ailments you see. What one site/chart will claim is a magnesium deficiency, another will insist it is a nitrogen deficiency, or a manganese deficiency, etc.

    Don't worry about deficiencies. As long as you are dosing KNO3, KH2PO4, MgSO4, and your Plantex CSM+B, you will not have any deficiencies in your plants unless you go really lean and hit the tank with tons of light. With EI dosing, you will never be at risk of that. I suppose there is a possibility of that with PPS, but the very essence of EI is to over-supplement the tank so that CO2 and light are your only limiting factors.

  6. #16

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    0 Not allowed!
    Your plants are yellow and pink because they are receiving lots of light. You could compare it to a sunburn. These are plant colours ppl usually opt for. The abundance of lighting accelerates the growing, so more micro nutrients are required. Think of the lighting as your gas pedal, the nutrients are the gas. There's a fine line though, where of your lighting is very high, you'll need to supplement co2 as well, but I personally try to find a happy-medium where I don't have to use co2 and still get a bit of color out of the plants. I just wanted to let you know that your plants don't look too shabby to me :)
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  7. #17

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    1 Not allowed!
    Here's something to consider: New growth on plants is often lighter in color than older growth. As the new leaves mature, they usually turn darker and greener. Perhaps you need only to wait and let them do their thing?
    20 gal. high: planted; 5 white cloud minnows, 4 golden White Clouds, several RCS, 2 blue shrimp, 5 Amano shrimp, several snails; Azoo air. 65 gal: planted; 6 rosy barbs, 6 yellow glofish, 3 red glofish, 3 zebra danios, 5 white cloud minnows, 3 dojo loaches, 6 crimson spot rainbow fish, 12 large Amano Shrimp, several snails; AC110.

  8. #18

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    1 Not allowed!
    Thanks for all the help. I’m being indecisive about ferts. I’m down to either GLA or thrive. I like the price and ability to customize the GLA products but thrive is getting a lot of good reviews. So a lot of the plants I was worried about are doing better. I got a bottle of flourish I’ve been using about 2 times a week and it seems to be helping. My amazon swords are still not doing well. The big outer leaves seem nice but the closer to the middle they get they are going from green to yellow to transparent with veining visible then just kinda dissolve to stems. I have newer less than 2 month old eco complete but I’m thinking I have an iron deficiency. Would oscomolite in 00 gelcaps fix this?? Lastly I’ve had 3 plecos less than 1.5” die in less than 3 weeks. From research I’m thinking it’s possibly not enough flow and water parameters moving around. We also just had a blue eye bushy nose die in my gf’s 10 gallon. Only thing that’s really the same is eco complete. Her temps are lower and ph higher. I’ll be starting a new thread for the plecos but I feel like I’m starting too many lately..

  9. #19

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    1 Not allowed!
    There are root tabs you can get to bury into the substrate around your plants that specifically state on their label that they contain iron. Iron is good, copper isn't. You can get non-copper root tabs with iron. If leaves are yellowing, it's often due to an iron deficiency. These root tabs also contain other nutrients beneficial to plants, which yours might be lacking.

    As for middle foliage turning brown and going transparent so only veins are seen, that often happens with older foliage. It can happen with garden plants as well as aquatic plants. Oftentimes, the older foliage in the middle of the plant will die off as new foliage opens around the outside. In that case, just clip off the dead foliage so the plant can channel its energies into producing new foliage which should be lusher and greener as it matures.

    If that is happening with new foliage, then there's a problem. Try inserting some nutrient-rich root tabs into the substrate, and make sure they're the kind that contain iron but no copper. See if that improves the situation.
    20 gal. high: planted; 5 white cloud minnows, 4 golden White Clouds, several RCS, 2 blue shrimp, 5 Amano shrimp, several snails; Azoo air. 65 gal: planted; 6 rosy barbs, 6 yellow glofish, 3 red glofish, 3 zebra danios, 5 white cloud minnows, 3 dojo loaches, 6 crimson spot rainbow fish, 12 large Amano Shrimp, several snails; AC110.

  10. #20

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    1 Not allowed!
    Ok, I see what you are explaining now. I see a little bit of stunting happening. Have you noticed an improvement with stem plant growth after using Flourish 2x a week?

    With these kinds of deficiencies, you can go two ways. Accommodate the high lighting with ferts and possibly even co2, or stay low tech and reduce your lighting. If the stems don't improve with Flourish, and you don't want to go high tech or add more ferts, try reducing the lighting. I keep low tech easy tanks, but I can't grow everything I want to. I settle for low light plants with the most color ex. red tiger lotus or rosette swords (cuz I like reds in plants). The age-old advice, if a particular plant doesn't do well in your particular tank, chuck it and grow the plants that do.

    As for your Amazon swords, sounds like it's the new growth not doing well. These plants have very large rooting systems. The roots can spread the whole footprint of your tank. So these plants in particular need root tabs or a lot of nutrients at the substrate. Eco is good, but all my swords really benefit from an added root tab every 6 months to a year as mermaidwannabe mentioned. I find both Flourish tabs and Osmotote tabs work well. FYI, even if you reduce lighting, you will probably still need some root fertilization for the sword plants.

    And don't worry about starting too many posts lol, that's what the forum is here for :)
    Last edited by angelcraze2; 12-03-2017 at 07:23 PM.
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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