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Results 11 to 19 of 19
  1. #11

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
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    0 Not allowed!
    Ok I asked about natural methods a week ago and kinda got the opinion that it would cause a roller coaster on every water change. I have a 3x5x2 approx chunk of drift wood and I just pulled out the chunk of dolomite limestone also called fondulac stone I had in there to increase the Kh. Would I add the oak leaves to my water change buckets and bubble them for the week prior to using them. I’m doing a 2 gal change once a week unless I have to work then just as soon as I can. Same with using peat in the filter. Does it need to be in the wc water as well? Lastly I can still get oak leaves off a tree but it snowed a couple days ago so should I grab a bunch and freeze them for the winter? And do I just let them float? A sticky on all natural methods of water parameter stabilization would be amazing. Give me a few months and if there is not one I should have it down. Oh and are there any good Kh meters on the market?969300C1-57D5-4C5E-B7B3-D0A5200D875F.jpg

    1F933115-B726-4E1D-BAC2-B5F27AD8BC61.jpg

  2. #12

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    1 Not allowed!
    I find that to be the exact opposite chemicals are way less stable and $$$


    Here is a nice article to read through to get you up to speed with botanicals https://tanninaquatics.com/blogs/new...ater-aquariums



    I prefer to float the leaves until they sink naturally I collect from my yard or somewhere I know for sure hasn't had contaminets like pesticides etc..


    The leaves must be dead and have fallen off naturally idk if it's possible now for you to collect after the snow best to purchase some perhaps


    I use a cheap TDS meter off Amazon this will give you a instant reading and you can determine the hardness based off the TDS
    Last edited by AmazonJoe; 11-05-2017 at 04:06 PM.

  3. #13

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    0 Not allowed!
    Well I filled up a grocery bag off my parents deck so no rotting in a corner leafs. I’m gonna wash them with hot water to get any crud off then I should be good to flatten them and after they dry off freeze them I hope or can I totally dry them and keep them dry till in need them. And do you cover the whole tank or like 4 normal sized leafs?

  4. #14

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    1 Not allowed!
    Ok so an update I added 4 oak leaves a couple weeks ago. I am getting a slight ph creep up over 3 or 4 days. I then notice 2 or 3 white spots appear on my male so I dissolve about 1/8 tsp seachem acid buffer in a quart of dechlorinated tap water. This evens out evaporation or I’d use tank water. I know it’s not ideal but I have just got my peat in 5 minutes ago and have not even opened the box. But to my delight they laid eggs again. This time in the center of the tank on top of the main ceramic decoration. I added 6 Apistogramma hongsloi 3 pairs but they are about a half to 3/4 of an inch so still juvies. The GBRs seem to be protecting these so far but I want to try and hatch them. I was wondering if I should pull the eggs and ceramic decoration and put it in a tank by it self? Or I also got a pair of gold rams in a 10 gallon to them self’s my gf is trying to breed. I was told that these gold rams were raised by parents that didn’t eat eggs and they have never got a taste for eggs so to speak. Bottom line we were told that most rams eat their eggs but there are lines that are good parents not too far from wild stock is what I got out of it. Will the gold rams raise these eggs as their own if I put them in their tank?

    57513F69-E7AF-4ACF-AE07-CDF91E7713D3.jpgimage.jpg

  5. #15

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    1 Not allowed!
    Congrats on the second spawn, they must be happy enough. But I completely agree with not using chemicals to bring down the pH. It will change the params too quickly and the params will most likely bounce back if your kh is above 4 degrees. It might be very hard to lower your pH depending on your kh. I use TDS meters as well to ensure my tanks are where I want them, but if you could test your kh and post the results, it would be very helpful.

    If your GBRs are protecting the eggs, is best to leave the eggs with the parents. But with apistos being added, I think the rams will have a hard time once the eggs hatch and the fry start doing their own thing. The best scenario would be to leave the tank to the GBRs themselves if you want to breed them. Typically, I find rams to be great parents. I really don't remember rams eating eggs, but I imagine they would if they felt the babies would be threatened, like food for the apistos, like any other cichlid.

    If you have no where to keep the apistos, I'd remove the eggs and artificially hatch them in another tank or container and add them to a small cycled tank with a sponge filter. I've only bred and raised electric blue rams, I understand the regular blue rams are even better when it comes to reproducing. I had some hatching troubles with my EBRs and ultimately resorted to hatching the eggs in a container with Methylene Blue to prevent fungus. I also kept the pH low, below 7. This would also apply to your GFs gold rams since they are also a color morph and thus more sensitive and prone to inbreeding deformities. I didn't have the best luck in the world with color morphs, but it is possible and the babies were fine. According to what I've read, you should have way more success breeding your GBRs. Good luck!
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  6. #16

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    0 Not allowed!
    Well from what I found out the eggs should start to get pinker and darker but these stayed white ish so I don’t think my male has figured out the fertilization thing. And I’ve got something going on in the tank cuz I’ve lost 4 super red ancistras (bushy nose) plecos they were about 1 -1.25 inches long but my ottos are doing great I don’t get it cuz ottos are supposed to be the finicky ones. I’m going to move the GBR to their own 10 gal because as the Apistogramma get bigger my female GBR Bonnie is not getting along with the biggest male Apistogramma hongsloi sorry can’t remember how to spell it

  7. #17

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    0 Not allowed!
    Where did you end up for water hardness? Hard water can inhibit egg development. A ram expert I am not but I do have four healthy pairs. My water is very hard. My rams never spawned in hard water. They don't look that healthy either along with some of my tetras like cardinals. I purchased an RO unit and things are much better now. Wish I had done it years ago. I mix RO with my well water in certain tanks and my fish look so much better. Limited success with spawning but I know the water is about right. Initially I did a some hardness and PH testing until I figured out the ratio of RO I should use. Once that is settled a cheap TDS meter is what I use to keep an eye on the tanks, because I now know that TDS 100 is where I want the hardness. AT WC time I don't fill the tank all the way up. I leave room for a little more RO or well as appropriate. Easy to keep the water right without yoyo-ing around with chemicals. The leaves and peat are great, I do that too, but I can't possibly use enough to tame my hard well without RO.

  8. #18

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    0 Not allowed!
    Ok so I have switched to ro but I’m buying it so I’m only doing 5 gallons a week for a WC. My tds is still abound 200. My tap is about 150-100 depending on the day. My kh is 1 for tap. But when I check my ro it’s usualy around 7.5 but if I add anything even like an oz of tap water that is 7.8 it plumits to 5.5 ish. So I add a lil of a dkh stock solution from brightwell then it goes too high so I add like 10 grains of acid buffer and it ends up around 6.5 ph and a tds of 100 but if I add trace elements to it the tds barely changes. I’m not sure why the ph buffers affect the tds so much. I’ve tried adding 1/8 tsp of alkaline buffer and about 1/10 tsp of acid buffer to get a ph of 6.5 like the bottles say but then my tds is up around 150 but I haven’t checked kh. That should be a kh of 2.8 according to their charts and that’s what I’m aiming for but if I look at the co2/kh/ph charts a kh of 3 should be a much lower ph even with out adding the acid buffer witch I assume just burns off some kh to drop the ph. Like that 1/8 tsp of alkaline buffer should give me a ph of 7.4-7.5 kh of 1 should be like 6.6 if memory serves. I’m almost to the point I’m gonna bring my kh to 2.8 or a lil lower then bubble and heat my water for an hour like normal then use it. I think this will be more stable in the long run until I get co2. I’ve read rams need a ph of like 5.5 to 6 to success spawn but I have not seen a kh or tds range. 100 does sound soft though. Does anyone know if it’s bad to add straight ro water for my 25% WC every week sense I’m trying to get my tds down and sense ro has no kh will it just adjust to the current ph of my tank? Oh and I’m still trying to find a good rule of thumb for how nuch peat per gallon I should put in my filter or in a nylon hanging in my tanks to get the ph down to 6 ish

  9. #19

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    1 Not allowed!
    So your tap water KH is 1 ?? That's the issue right there there is no buffer at all practically so the ph is going to drop dramatically and quickly again I would refrain from using the chemical alterations. Use a teaspoon of baking soda dissolved in
    RO water for about every 10 gallons to raise the KH to at least 4. Check Kh in about 24 hours. The rams should be fine in your taps 150-100ppm TDS
    Last edited by AmazonJoe; 12-15-2017 at 02:27 AM.

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