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  1. #11

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    0 Not allowed!
    The nitrites and nitrates were a strip test and ammonia was a liqiud test. The first time I took the test it showed at a 2 and I did a 60% water change. Yesterday I took the test again and it still showed up at a .5 so should I keep doing about 25% water changes every day or should I do 50%? I have done a lot of water changes recently and I don't want to stress him out too much but I know the ammonia needs to be fixed right away.

  2. #12

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    1 Not allowed!
    Which water conditioner are you using?

    I highly recommend you purchase one of these ASAP: http://www.apifishcare.com/product.p...0#.WZrtt1GQzpE

    This is the conditioner many of us use, with great results: http://www.seachem.com/prime.php
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  3. #13

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by love4ballroom View Post
    The nitrites and nitrates were a strip test and ammonia was a liqiud test. The first time I took the test it showed at a 2 and I did a 60% water change. Yesterday I took the test again and it still showed up at a .5 so should I keep doing about 25% water changes every day or should I do 50%? I have done a lot of water changes recently and I don't want to stress him out too much but I know the ammonia needs to be fixed right away.
    When either nitrites or ammonia reaches above 0.25ppm, do a 50% water change. Test everyday. If you run out of the tests, do a 50% water change everyday until you get the new tests.

    The stress from ammonia is worse than the stress from a water change because it is constantly there.

  4. #14

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    1 Not allowed!
    I have been using TopFin water conditioner. Also, this may seem like a stupid question, but 2 seems really high? I had done a fifty percent water change a bit over a week ago then another fifty percent water change like three days before the first ammonia test then a 25 ish percent water change the day before. using the gavel vac instead of the cup after the first ammonia test for a sixty percent water change did make the levels go down to a .5, but that also seems a bit high considering. Is this just because I was using a cup instead of a gravel vac, or was I doing something wrong as well? Are the holes because of the ammonia?

  5. #15

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by love4ballroom View Post
    I have been using TopFin water conditioner. Also, this may seem like a stupid question, but 2 seems really high? I had done a fifty percent water change a bit over a week ago then another fifty percent water change like three days before the first ammonia test then a 25 ish percent water change the day before. using the gavel vac instead of the cup after the first ammonia test for a sixty percent water change did make the levels go down to a .5, but that also seems a bit high considering. Is this just because I was using a cup instead of a gravel vac, or was I doing something wrong as well? Are the holes because of the ammonia?
    Are you saying that you were moving water out of the tank by scooping cups of water? The fish waste settles to the bottom and sits there rotting until you physically remove it. Scooping water out of the tank will help but ultimately you should use a gravel vac to remove the disintegrating waste. I hope I got the question right. The holes could possibly be from a disease or infection rather than a parasite like ick.

  6. #16

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    2 Not allowed!
    I agree with Rivers; I do not see signs of ich. If you ever get ich, you will notice it from several feet away...it looks like your fish have a bunch of salt stuck to them.

    I agree with the others.
    1. Get a liquid test kit for your water.
    2. Do not replace filter cartridges until they are falling apart or so gunked-up that flow is impaired regardless of how much you rinse.
    3. Holes in fins are usually from poor water quality.
    4. Vacuum up the bottom of the tank when doing water changes so that all waste is removed.
    5. Feed only three or four pellets to your betta a day. You can skip a day or two, as well. Fish are opportunistic feeders and can go weeks without food. A fasting day will help keep your water quality much better as well as help prevent digestive issues like constipation and bloating.
    6. Swing by your local aquarium shop, or even a Petsmart/Co. They will more than likely have live plants for your aquarium. Plants will help consume ammonia and nitrates, which is important in smaller tanks when they get fouled up quickly. Live plants are also much more aesthetic than plastic decorations.
    7. Invest in a larger tank, when funds allow. Walmart usually has some bare 10g tanks for about $13. Larger tanks are more stable and easier to maintain, and the betta won't foul up a 10g right away.

    BTW, welcome to the Community and your betta is beautiful!



  7. #17

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    0 Not allowed!
    Yes, I was using a cup to scoop. I bought a gravel vac and it did reduce the ammonia levels. I have also had a marimo moss ball in the tank for at least a month now thinking that this would help keep ammonia levels under control, but I guess that it got too out of hand even for the plant. I also noticed a seven day betta feeder that did not dissolve correctly and was there for at least two weeks. Could that have contributed to the water quality being so terrible? I do want to get a bigger tank for him, but I am living in a dorm, and it is a bit too difficult to transport a large tank every time I need to leave my dorm. In a few months I am hoping to have a more permanent housing situation though, and I will probably invest in at least a ten gallon tank then, if not a larger one. Until then, do you think the one marimo ball is enough to help or should I get a second plant as well? I was doing water changes once a week. Should I be doing it more if the tank is small?? I did invest in a water vacuum, and I am hoping that this will help keep it under control. I did buy water test kits. I am testing it every day now until it is back to zero ammonia and no other issues, but how often should I test the water normally? Once a week?

    I apologize if these seem like obvious questions, but I want to be the best pet parent possible for Poseidon.

    And thank you :)

  8. #18

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    0 Not allowed!
    Ok so six hours ago I did a 45% water change, and I tested the water and the ammonia is just as high as it was yesterday. Is this normal? I used conditioner that states it neutralizes ammonia, he has a plant in there, I did use the gravel vac again to get the gross bottom water and poop and food out. Shouldn't the ammonia have gone down?

  9. #19

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by love4ballroom View Post
    Yes, I was using a cup to scoop. I bought a gravel vac and it did reduce the ammonia levels. I have also had a marimo moss ball in the tank for at least a month now thinking that this would help keep ammonia levels under control, but I guess that it got too out of hand even for the plant. I also noticed a seven day betta feeder that did not dissolve correctly and was there for at least two weeks. Could that have contributed to the water quality being so terrible? I do want to get a bigger tank for him, but I am living in a dorm, and it is a bit too difficult to transport a large tank every time I need to leave my dorm. In a few months I am hoping to have a more permanent housing situation though, and I will probably invest in at least a ten gallon tank then, if not a larger one. Until then, do you think the one marimo ball is enough to help or should I get a second plant as well? I was doing water changes once a week. Should I be doing it more if the tank is small?? I did invest in a water vacuum, and I am hoping that this will help keep it under control. I did buy water test kits. I am testing it every day now until it is back to zero ammonia and no other issues, but how often should I test the water normally? Once a week?

    I apologize if these seem like obvious questions, but I want to be the best pet parent possible for Poseidon.

    And thank you :)

    Marimo moss ball will help but you can add some other plants like cabomba, hornwort, water sprite. They are fast growers and will take up nutrients-but you may need to keep on top of them so they don't overgrow the tank. Poseidon will love to lay on top of the plants as well.

    Remove the 7 day feeder, as much of it as you can. It definitely contributed to the problem as bettas don't poop that much.

    As someone suggested-don't throw away the filter cartridge. When it gets gunked up you can take some of the tank water and put it in a small bowl or even a mason jar, pop the filter cartridge in-tighten the lid and shake the cartridge cleaner. Then rinse it in some more tank water you removed from the tank, and pop it back in the filter without letting it dry out at all or rinsing it with tap water. You are trying to grow some beneficial bacteria and throwing away the cartridge throws them away too-rinsing in tap water kills them, treated tank water will not arm them, but it will clean the cartridge.

    I would test the ammonia daily, and do water changes as needed if the levels get to be over .25. Ammonia and nitrites are deadly in small amounts so doing at least 50% water changes will help to keep them from hurting Poseidon. Also using the Prime water conditioner will help neutralize the ammonia, nitrites and nitrates for a period of time-making them less of an issue too.

    No obvious questions and thank you for being a good parent. Poseidon is a beautiful boy, he will love a 10 gallon tank when you are able to upgrade him.
    Last edited by Boundava; 08-22-2017 at 01:53 AM.
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  10. #20

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    1 Not allowed!
    Thank you for your advice :) and thank you I think he is very beautiful too :) I just want him to be happy and healthy

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