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Thread: The Congo tank

  1. #471

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    2 Not allowed!
    Love the congos, great pic of a male and a female, for comparison

    That ctenopoma is something else, I like that body shape...do they move their eyes independently?...can fish do that, lol..I have no clue..but the eye movements in those big fish is cool to watch
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  2. #472

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    1 Not allowed!
    I don't think they move independently, but they do move different from each other but I think it's just to look at things on different sides where only one eye sees it, so the eyes are at different angels in the head... I don't think I'm explaining it well but best I can lol and maybe they do move independent, at least to a point, I really don't know for sure either but they are definitely not like chameleon eyes.

  3. #473

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by sfsamm View Post
    Dirt releases Ammonia when initially placed in the tank from what I've read, it's the reason I don't use it or certain planted substrates... Have I misunderstood?
    You can start with a dirted tank if you are starting a brand new tank. You use the ammonia given off by the dirt as the ammonia that's going to be cycling your tank it's a little less controlled because you don't know how much ammonia you ordered is going to release but your tank will eventually cycle based on the ammonia that is given off by your dirt versus dosing ammonia directly to the tank. Do you have to check water parameters for a while to make sure that the ammonia has been released from the dirt and your tank is cycled. You also very careful what type of dirt you use, for example my sister and I got some dirt for her to use in her 15 gallon tank we used in my turtle's tank as well we thought the dirt didn't have anything like perlite in it however the 15 gallon she set up one cycled was increasing the GH and KH of the tank to ridiculous levels. We initially thought it was the rocks that were in the tank. However when we pulled the rocks out of the tank the GH and KH problems did not improve. So she recently stripped on the tank again and removed all of the dirt and put only sand in the tank and now has no issues with high GH or KH in the water.

    The only dirt many swear by is the Miracle Grow Organic. She may try a dirted tank, but the headache she had with her 15 gallon has confirmed that I will be sticking with sand for the majority of my tanks.
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  4. #474

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    0 Not allowed!
    Yeah that's what I thought. I already have the fish and cycled filters, the additional Ammonia wouldn't be a good deal for me lol.

  5. #475

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by sfsamm View Post
    Dirt releases Ammonia when initially placed in the tank from what I've read, it's the reason I don't use it or certain planted substrates... Have I misunderstood?
    Yeah it does, and they don't recommend adding fish for like 6 months or something, but I have just cycled my dirted tanks as normal. Well maybe I waited a week instead, but I've never had a problem. In fact my dirted tanks are my strongest bio tanks. They go through a foggy period, even when I add established media, but it clears up in a couple days and params have always been perfect for me. It's important to test of course, but I find it cycles itself, enough BB accumulates everywhere to process the ammonia on contact. Essentially , the dirted tank has a huge BB colony.

    I didn't read Nat's comment yet, so I hope it makes sense with her post!
    Last edited by angelcraze2; 11-26-2018 at 05:40 PM.
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  6. #476

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    2 Not allowed!
    So I have upped my lights quite a bit... They have at least one light 12 hours a day and both lights on together for 8.5-9 hours each day. The diatoms aren't as bad this week but absolutely still present but my amazon sword is actually doing something, noticeably growing this week! It's been the most pathetic excuse for an Amazon sword lol. I have a couple other sword types that have basically subsisted that have started showing growth also.

    Maybe my problem this whole time has been super low par at the substrate.... Funny thing is that on the back glass I am no longer getting diatoms at all levels, they literally stop about 5 inches off the substrate, in a straight line . THAT is something I'm quite familiar with when getting a new setup balanced! I'm actually a bit excited to see that. Once again, and for the first time regarding diatoms in this tank, I think I'm finally on the right track!

  7. #477

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    0 Not allowed!
    Yes, I've noticed algae on the glass in a straight line when the light is accidentally beaming on the glass. Or where the light hits the glass. Usually the top surface area is spared because lighting up there is low in my tanks. Most of the PAR is focused to the substate.

    Before I had the 1W Beamswork light on my 90g, I had two 0.5W fixtures, my foreground didn't grow well, but I had a sheet of green algae and hair algae in the middle layer of my tank where the PAR was too high. Hope that makes sense! Something I've noticed. My 1W LEDs have a 56 PAR at the substate, so they grow my foreground, where the 0.5W fixtures are at the back to grow the taller plants and 120 degree spread illuminates the top portion of the tank nicely.

    I haven't tried the Beamswork DA fspec yet, but PAR data is very similar to the 1W Beamswork fixtures and diodes have a 120° spread for even all around illumination.
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  8. #478

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    Yeah it does, and they don't recommend adding fish for like 6 months or something, but I have just cycled my dirted tanks as normal. Well maybe I waited a week instead, but I've never had a problem. In fact my dirted tanks are my strongest bio tanks. They go through a foggy period, even when I add established media, but it clears up in a couple days and params have always been perfect for me. It's important to test of course, but I find it cycles itself, enough BB accumulates everywhere to process the ammonia on contact. Essentially , the dirted tank has a huge BB colony.

    I didn't read Nat's comment yet, so I hope it makes sense with her post!
    On top of dirt decomposition and nutrients for plants, anaerobic bacteria that accumulates in the dirt substrate consumes all nitrate. It's been by far the easiest way to keep an ecosystem going where I don't have to worry about a set schedule for replacing water. I change water only to dilute TDS, fish hormones and replenish minerals (although I could add minerals too without changing water). What I mean to say, is it's insurance for me if I can't change water for whatever reason.

    Also with my undirted 120g, I've been needing to change out way too much water to keep the nitrate low. SW aquarists use anaerobic bacteria to reduce amount of water needing to changed out, so why not do it with FW.
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  9. #479

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    1 Not allowed!
    Haha @angelcraze2I've been staunch about not vacuuming my substrate when it's sand for that very reason for years. I of course vacuum gravel but not sand. I generally use around 2 inches and the difference is minimal but noticeable. About the same as I get from pothos really... Between the two after everything has been going a year or so I really can notice. In tanks where I tip 40 nitrAte by weeks end I'm regularly noticeably less. How much always depends on the footprint and bioload in the tank. As heavily as I planted my tanks since setting back up here I have too in particular that if I wasn't a stickler about water changes I could probably go quite some time and when I'm in a push I totally skip them occasionally, but I do try to keep my changes in all tanks frequent and substantial as no matter what we do having old water in a tank is still the same as having old water in a tank. Whether it shows on our tests or not lol.

    It's also something that hasn't happened for me yet in my 55g... Another thing I attribute to using the substrate I chose I think.

  10. #480

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    0 Not allowed!
    I agree that my fish really love fresh water, and when intentionally breeding, it has a lot of benefit. But this 120g had me going crazy trying to keep it under 30ppm, which is really odd in my tanks. They like fresh water, but changing as much as I was for a 120g is no easy task. Especially with my other tanks and thinking about re-setting up my breeder tanks. I normally do 50% WCs once a week to every 10 days, but I needed to change out more in the 120g lately.

    I think I've finally found the issue though, so it's been much better. Just saying, I don't want to even think about and just do the 50% every 7-10 days and more when fish are breeding, growing or ill.

    Thanks for the comparison to pothos. Again, it must depend on ratio
    Last edited by angelcraze2; 12-02-2018 at 10:28 PM.
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