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Thread: The Congo tank

  1. #21

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    0 Not allowed!
    So I have always preferred to run two hob filters for larger tanks. I had a bad experience about 12 years ago with a canister on the second floor of my townhouse almost draining my tank on me. Was fairly devastating to my fish at the time too. I essentially swore them off. But the more I think about it the more I'm leaning towards giving it another go in this build.

    I had been planning to run hobs again, either two fluval c4's or my current c3 plus a c4. Buuuut I keep looking at these new canisters and thinking I might just do it again. Such pretty and quiet things, and I can DIY myself a spray bar and even out some flow more than I can with the hobs.

    Leaves me with some questions. That I'd like some input on... Some esthetic, some functional and advice from some new age canister people as to which is best for my set up.

    I always over filter, like always. So with the canister I'll probably keep a basic sponge filter (maybe two one for each corner) running mostly for bottom tank water movement but also for aeration and surface agitation from bubbles. In doing this (they wouldn't be Giants just a limp along back up system) am I defeating the purpose of going canister for options esthetically? Thoughts?

    With the butterflies still being tossed around, they need the low flow rate at the surface. Spray bar directed slightly downward under the water line would be the course of action I'd take. Am I just going to keep them stressed and uncomfortable because of the motion throughout the tank?

    Intake... I would prefer to split the intake at the tank. Run it down center back and to disperse intake flow have it T to two intakes rather than one and keep them fairly close to the substrate raised off by 2-3". Is this a horrible idea? I know that I don't need to pull the same GPH as I do with the hob when using a canister soo I don't know if it will completely reduce flow across the bottom to a point that it becomes ineffective in creating the flow or will it still keep movement down there? The tank will have quite a few lower and bottom dwelling fish and I want to be 100% confident I don't have areas prone to zero movement as well as assuring that I've got enough movement to keep up a high O2 rate down there but at the same time keeping a low flow rate... I guess how low is too low is the question? Am I better just keeping the standard single rather than splitting it?

    Nothing in this tank is a fast water fish, most are found in the slower moving rivers and tributaries around the Congo basin so some movement throughout the tank is necessary. I'm trying to conquer an even low flow through out the tank and I'm wide open to any known methods to do so. I imagine I could Google a few hours and find a few hundred ideas lol but I'm looking for tried and true ideas if anyone has any.

  2. #22

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    0 Not allowed!
    Personally, I would keep the intake as one unit to give it the most vacuum power and move the spray bar closer to the bottom of the tank. I don't need surface agitation in my tanks unless I goof up with CO2 (its happened). If you feel the need for increased surface agitation, I would do away with the sponge filter and go for a more pleasing airstone of some kind. All the sponge does is provide a surface for bacteria really, they don't draw in much gunk.

  3. #23

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    0 Not allowed!
    I run an Eheim 2215 and an AC70 HOB on my 40B tank.

    Spraybar on one end, facing the length of the tank, intake on the opposite end, in the back corner...circulation is great

    IMO, sponge filters would not look good and are not necessary....full disclosure, I don't like them, I think they're ugly and they take up too much room in the tank...but they are useful and many use them in certain circumstances
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  4. #24

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    1 Not allowed!
    Yeah I know sponges don't "clean" but they do provide that beloved bb a place to be in a disaster. And I agree that they are ugly lol but useful! I hadn't actually thought of doing a canister and hob that would do away with most of my concerns and with the spray bar facing the length of the tank, hob center and intake for the canister on the other end it actually sounds perfect! Or hob on one end, canister intake on the other with the spray bar under the water line length wise like normal and a couple micro bubbles on the ends of the tank so I still have the surface agitation and a bit of distraction from the intake and hob tubes... Of course that would put bubbles closer to the front which I'm not exactly sure I like that idea. Hmm I am beginning to think that my tank needs to get here and I need to stop thinking about it so much!

    I do believe I am solid in the hob and canister idea though! The rest.... More thinking to do!

  5. #25

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    0 Not allowed!
    My HOB is on the end near the Eheim spraybar, I get a nice front-to-back, left to right flow in the front of the tank, then a right to left flow in the back of the tank...no dead spots without some sort of current in the tank

    Eheims are awesome canister filters, simple design and easy to fill with media of your choice, no clumsy trays or "stages" to mess with
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  6. #26

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    0 Not allowed!
    I've been looking at the eheims and the fluvals. I'm a fluval fan because it doesn't break but if it does it's easy to fix and you can find parts fairy readily.... Eheims... Everyone runs them gotta be something to it lol but I've never used one! I've been spoiled with trays for easy access and quick changes BUT they can be totally restrictive in what fits lol so I'm ready to go do something new... But the cost for me is a exorbitant so I want to be sure that I'm fully aware of what I'm looking at soo I can make my right choice.

  7. #27

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    1 Not allowed!
    The Eheims are worth the $, IMO...parts are readily available

    I like the way the flow design works, intake from the bottom, water flows through the entire filter, straight up and out of the top

    No trays, just one large compartment to fill with media...all I use in mine is the course blue sponge that comes with it on the bottom, then three full bags of ceramic media on top of that
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  8. #28

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Slaphppy7 View Post
    parts are readily available

    three full bags of ceramic media on top of that
    These two things may have just sold me, they definitely tipped the scales of decision! Lol

  9. #29

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    0 Not allowed!
    For a 55G, I might consider getting the 2217 instead of the 2215, but a 2215 would work in conjunction with an HOB, too

    Looks like these guys have the best price right now, but shop around, be sure to get free shipping

    http://www.aquacave.com/eheim-2217-c...r-w-media.html
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  10. #30

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    0 Not allowed!
    Alright so it's time to get my order in for my tank, have to get measurements into them and will hopefully have the tank and lid in July. I was all set and ready to go but now I'm getting cold feet about getting this tank built. I don't know the builder, all I know is it's a custom builder out of Vegas that regularly builds tanks to order for wholesale and retail.

    OK so my big thing is I really don't like acrylic and getting custom glass at steep discount I'm all over it. What do I need to do when it gets here? Obviously a leak test.... But should I plan anything else or just hope this doesn't go south in a year or two? I have a 5 and a 10 gallon from the same guy but honestly that's a pita but not a catastrophic amount of water or fish and I didn't even question it in a small tank. 55 isn't THAT big, looking at 36*18*20 built, and buying in the same dimensions is many many times the price I'll pay through my lfs guy.

    I know most of this is because I've had too much time to think about this build! I'm almost all in on juv fish and decor, canister will be ordered this weekend and honestly lighting choice and my stand are my only BIG things left after the tank.

    So please no horror stories lol I've read enough of those but advice on what YOU would do to be comfortable with it for the next 8-10 years before thinking about reseal time? And how long would you leak test in this scenario? 2 days, 10 days?

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