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Results 41 to 50 of 63
  1. #41

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  2. #42

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    5 Not allowed!
    I have asked a couple people around me that have cichlids and they always used Seachem Phosguard in their filters to help reduce diatoms because it binds phosphate and silicates into larger molecules that can be picked up by fine filter media and polishing pads. This may be your best option along with removing any sandstone rocks you have. If it is breaking down into sand when you wash it; its probably a sandstone and has some silica/silicate in it that will fuel the diatoms, since that is what they use to build their exoskeletons.

    Do you use pH buffers in the tank? Apparently the pH buffers bind phosphates and can also exacerbate diatom issues (along with high phosphate foods)
    75 Gourami/Eel tank
    Fish room-Astt tanks;all sizes



    75 Gourami Tank

    Fish Room



    DebinWhitmore

  3. #43

    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Michigan
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    Because I back our Blue...thanks for your service - Silbar   Welcome back! - Slaphppy7   Have another angel fish... - Slaphppy7   Merry Christmas! - Slaphppy7   No Message - Law Dog   

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    2 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Boundava View Post
    I have asked a couple people around me that have cichlids and they always used Seachem Phosguard in their filters to help reduce diatoms because it binds phosphate and silicates into larger molecules that can be picked up by fine filter media and polishing pads. This may be your best option along with removing any sandstone rocks you have. If it is breaking down into sand when you wash it; its probably a sandstone and has some silica/silicate in it that will fuel the diatoms, since that is what they use to build their exoskeletons.

    Do you use pH buffers in the tank? Apparently the pH buffers bind phosphates and can also exacerbate diatom issues (along with high phosphate foods)
    Awesome, thanks for asking Boundava!

    I'm starting to see some improvement in the tank, albeit slow improvement. I plan on removing the suspect rocks from the tank as soon as I can get around to finding time as I believe 1 is deep in my rock pile. I don't use any PH buffers in the tank. Heck, the only thing I add to new water is API tap water conditioner. If I continue to see an improvement but hit a wall at some point then I can justify the purchase of a reactor to help the Phosguard out.
    * 100gal show
    - planted w/ Crypts, Vals, Java Fern, Staurogyne repens and Amazon Swords
    - Neons, 4 Angelfish, Sunset Honey Gourami, BN Pleco, Spotted Sailfin
    Pleco, Odessa Barbs, Corydoras schwartzi, Serpae Tetras, Silver tip tetras
    * Fluval Spec V
    - Dwarf Gourami, , 1 Kuhli loach, 2 Black Phantom Tetras
    - planted w/ Crypts

  4. #44

    Join Date
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    2 Not allowed!
    I can only tell you that I hated my last tank - a 20 long - for at least 2 months. The diatoms started about 2 weeks after set up and did a number on a couple of plants, too. During the same period, I developed hair algae on one plant grouping (not connected with the diatoms, of course) and I ended up ripping that group out entirely. I think this might have been because of using fertilizers too soon. But things eventually calmed down, the diatoms did disappear and the hair algae never returned. It's now a favorite tank.

    So, I'm hoping you'll have a similar experience and start to just enjoy your tank. Maybe try not doing anything other than normal maintenance/water testing for the next week or two and see what happens.

  5. #45

    Join Date
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    Because I back our Blue...thanks for your service - Silbar   Welcome back! - Slaphppy7   Have another angel fish... - Slaphppy7   Merry Christmas! - Slaphppy7   No Message - Law Dog   

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by SueD View Post
    I can only tell you that I hated my last tank - a 20 long - for at least 2 months. The diatoms started about 2 weeks after set up and did a number on a couple of plants, too. During the same period, I developed hair algae on one plant grouping (not connected with the diatoms, of course) and I ended up ripping that group out entirely. I think this might have been because of using fertilizers too soon. But things eventually calmed down, the diatoms did disappear and the hair algae never returned. It's now a favorite tank.

    So, I'm hoping you'll have a similar experience and start to just enjoy your tank. Maybe try not doing anything other than normal maintenance/water testing for the next week or two and see what happens.
    Thanks Sue, I appreciate the words of encouragement. If this were a newly cycled tank I would understand, but the tank has been established for nearly 15yrs with no real changes except for a few months of moderate neglect.

    I'm beginning to think that it's a combination of alot of issues such as filter maintenance, possible sandstone based rocks and lighting to name a few. It is showing small signs of improving but only time will tell.
    * 100gal show
    - planted w/ Crypts, Vals, Java Fern, Staurogyne repens and Amazon Swords
    - Neons, 4 Angelfish, Sunset Honey Gourami, BN Pleco, Spotted Sailfin
    Pleco, Odessa Barbs, Corydoras schwartzi, Serpae Tetras, Silver tip tetras
    * Fluval Spec V
    - Dwarf Gourami, , 1 Kuhli loach, 2 Black Phantom Tetras
    - planted w/ Crypts

  6. #46

    Join Date
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    0 Not allowed!
    I was thinking this would take a while, I'm glad you are being patient. Did you recently change your light? Is that when you started noticing the diatoms becoming out-of-control?

    My 90g was always a problem tank for me too. Brown beard algae, green spot algae, green hair algae, you name it. The tank still has BBA, but the other algaes disappeared when I reduced my lighting photoperiod and intensity. I added a siesta as well, my lights are on for 3 hrs, off for 2 and on for 4 more.

    I'm glad you are seeing a small improvement at least :)
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  7. #47

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    Because I back our Blue...thanks for your service - Silbar   Welcome back! - Slaphppy7   Have another angel fish... - Slaphppy7   Merry Christmas! - Slaphppy7   No Message - Law Dog   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    I was thinking this would take a while, I'm glad you are being patient. Did you recently change your light? Is that when you started noticing the diatoms becoming out-of-control?

    My 90g was always a problem tank for me too. Brown beard algae, green spot algae, green hair algae, you name it. The tank still has BBA, but the other algaes disappeared when I reduced my lighting photoperiod and intensity. I added a siesta as well, my lights are on for 3 hrs, off for 2 and on for 4 more.

    I'm glad you are seeing a small improvement at least :)
    I did replace my light, about 2 months ago, but the diatoms were there well before. I have actually seen a reduction of green algae (non-existent to be honest). The previous light was a cheap box store fluorescent.

    I'm trying to be patient. I think I finally have my wife and kids convinced into trading in my 18" pleco. If I do, he will be replaced by a more efficient clown sailfin pleco who will stay small.
    * 100gal show
    - planted w/ Crypts, Vals, Java Fern, Staurogyne repens and Amazon Swords
    - Neons, 4 Angelfish, Sunset Honey Gourami, BN Pleco, Spotted Sailfin
    Pleco, Odessa Barbs, Corydoras schwartzi, Serpae Tetras, Silver tip tetras
    * Fluval Spec V
    - Dwarf Gourami, , 1 Kuhli loach, 2 Black Phantom Tetras
    - planted w/ Crypts

  8. #48

    Join Date
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    0 Not allowed!
    So today I did another 50% W/C and removed 5 rocks from the tank that I suspect as possibly being a type of sandstone or softer stone. 2 of which were Petoskey stones that my wife's friend brought back from Petoskey, MI. It seems as if the diatoms are slowing in their reproduction but not going away totally. I did another scrub of the top rocks after removing them from the tank. I did have the back wall of the tank 50% coated in diatoms. I plan on doing a canister filter cleaning again in a few days, possibly this Sunday.

    I'm going to give this tank another 2-4 weeks and if I can't solve this problem then I will more than likely take a day and break it down to convert it to a community tank with plants. I can't see spending over $100 on a reactor for Phosguard when I'm not seeing much of an improvement now. If that happens I'm going to be really bummed as I've had Cichlids for nearly 20yrs now. Good thing is my LFS will buy them all and give store credit for their size and species. I would use that money for the conversion.

    With all of that said, I'm in no way giving up just yet. Just wanted to give an update.
    * 100gal show
    - planted w/ Crypts, Vals, Java Fern, Staurogyne repens and Amazon Swords
    - Neons, 4 Angelfish, Sunset Honey Gourami, BN Pleco, Spotted Sailfin
    Pleco, Odessa Barbs, Corydoras schwartzi, Serpae Tetras, Silver tip tetras
    * Fluval Spec V
    - Dwarf Gourami, , 1 Kuhli loach, 2 Black Phantom Tetras
    - planted w/ Crypts

  9. #49

    Join Date
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    Merry Christmas to you and your family Nat. - Taurus   Merry Xmas to you! - angelcraze2   Champagne for the holidays. Cheers! - mermaidwannabe   Merry Christmas! - Slaphppy7   Hope you feel better soon - Silbar   

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    You don't need a reactor for phosguard, putting it in your canister should be just fine. Matter of fact it is not supposed to "tumble" which is what would happen in a reactor.

    http://www.seachem.com/phosguard.php
    Directions

    May generate heat on initial contact with water. Pre-wet by adding to a double volume of freshwater, followed by a rinse. For best results, PhosGuard™ should be rinsed before use and placed so as to maximize the flow of water through it but not so that it tumbles against itself in flow. It may be used in a canister filter, media chamber, box filter, or any high flow area of a trickle filter. Use of a filter bag is recommended. Use 85 mL (1/3 cup) for every 200 L (50 US gallons) saltwater or 400 L (100 US gallons) freshwater.

    Leave product in place for 4 days, then test phosphate or silicate concentrations with either MultiTest™: Phosphate or MultiTest™: Silicate. If the concentration of the component you are trying to decrease has not dropped to around 0.02 mg/L, then replace the PhosGuard™, otherwise leave in place until levels begin to climb again. As long as concentrations remain under control, the product is not exhausted. Over treating is not recommended. PhosGuard™ is not an exchange resin and does not release anything into the water. It does not leach phosphate or silicate back into the water and may be removed, dried, and returned to service until exhausted. Continuous use of small quantities is better than intermittent use of larger quantities.
    75 Gourami/Eel tank
    Fish room-Astt tanks;all sizes



    75 Gourami Tank

    Fish Room



    DebinWhitmore

  10. #50

    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    Michigan
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    Because I back our Blue...thanks for your service - Silbar   Welcome back! - Slaphppy7   Have another angel fish... - Slaphppy7   Merry Christmas! - Slaphppy7   No Message - Law Dog   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Boundava View Post
    You don't need a reactor for phosguard, putting it in your canister should be just fine. Matter of fact it is not supposed to "tumble" which is what would happen in a reactor.

    http://www.seachem.com/phosguard.php
    Thanks again Boundava! Still keeping my fingers and toes crossed that I can kick this outbreak.
    * 100gal show
    - planted w/ Crypts, Vals, Java Fern, Staurogyne repens and Amazon Swords
    - Neons, 4 Angelfish, Sunset Honey Gourami, BN Pleco, Spotted Sailfin
    Pleco, Odessa Barbs, Corydoras schwartzi, Serpae Tetras, Silver tip tetras
    * Fluval Spec V
    - Dwarf Gourami, , 1 Kuhli loach, 2 Black Phantom Tetras
    - planted w/ Crypts

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