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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Here's hoping for better luck with your tank. - Slaphppy7   

    Default Please help save my daughter’s (remaining) fish


    0 Not allowed!
    PLEASE HELP SAVE MY DAUGHTER’S (REMAINING) FISH. I have consulted the fish store that sold us contaminated fish (what good they are!!) and a local saltwater aquarium specialist (not freshwater), and Seachem Laboratories.
    We have had an established HEALTHY freshwater tank (for YEARS) with several neon tetras, black and white skirt tetras, 2 loaches, 1 cory cat, and a pleco. Water testing confirmed all levels good. We have not introduced any new fish to our tank for a very long time until Saturday, February 4. We locally purchased some lemon tetras, neon tetras, cory cats, and a bristlenose pleco. By Sunday, the new fish began to die and a couple days later 3 of our established neons died. Also, my daughter said our older neon, the first of our older fish to perish, had white, cylindrical things coming out of its eyes (one on both eyes). My daughter also noted that she saw on the "new" dead fish she had seen very visible ich parasites right before they died (were not visible before and I have not seen any visible signs on any of the fish); therefore, we went to the fish store which then sold us Cupramine (we have a 65 gallon tank). We were also advised to raise the temp to 83 degrees and add aquarium salt to the tank which we then did, gradually. Then 2 of our black skirts died (one had popeye in one eye and right before it died it went to the top of the tank for air) and another lemon which also had popeye in one eye died February 12 . At that time only 2 new lemons had survived along with the bristlenose-all others have died and 5 of our older fish had died. I had noticed that the black skirts look a little bloated and one had been swimming in the same spot in circles (but it could have been due to one of the white skirts chasing it, not typical of their behavior). The fish seem to have NO other obvious symptoms until SHORTLY before they die when they appear to be breathing erratically, swimming sluggishly, and/or not remaining upright, although they have appeared to be a little bloated to us.
    We cannot remember if our older fish started dying after treatments were introduced (Wednesday, Feb. 8) or right before-most of them were after, though, but they were not displaying the typical signs of ich: salty-looking bodies, rubbing or scratching, although their typical swimming patterns were altered shortly before their deaths (they just didn't look right, listless, difficulty swimming, remaining upright). Seachem advised that ich is very visible when it is powerful enough to kill the fish and that “ . . . the initial deaths were more due to stress or possibly a bacterial infection, and the powerful treatments that are being used together have only exacerbated the problem.” Seachem advised to remove the copper from the tank, perform small, frequent water changes to reduce the salt, and bring the temp back to normal (we keep our tank 78-79 degrees). Then stop meds entirely or proceed with Paraguard and then to Kanaplex as needed.
    We had replaced the carbon filter to remove the copper and had continued water changes. One of our white skirts had turned aggressive (never before all this) but went back to normal after this was done. We then went 3 days without any casualties. Last Wednesday or Thursday (Feb. 15/16) a lemon tetra began hiding and not eating, looked as if it had a red spot on its body, then it got popeye, and now it has to be deceased since we can no longer locate it. Then one of our fancy black skirted tetras had started to contract a red area on its tail fin. The carbon filter was removed and copper was reading less than 0.1 (Sunday evening, Feb 19). We had been doing frequent, small water changes and the temp has been restored to the original 79°. Since I've suspected a bacterial infection, we've administered Kanaplex at the recommended dose. Yesterday morning (Feb. 21) I found my daughter's 6” albino pleco dead, no visible marks or signs, no previous symptoms. He WAS bloated, but I am not sure if that happened before or after he died. I examined him very carefully and he did have what appeared to be a relatively small reddened area near one of his pectoral fins but nothing else. Water tested fine in nitrites, nitrates and ammonia (and has been). Last night my daughter did a 25% water change and added more Kanaplex at a lower dose (not sure how much because I am at work). I have read from several sources that Kanaplex is supposed to be more effective when used along with Furan-2.
    Does anyone have any idea what is going on with our fish and how we can most effectively and safely treat them before it is too late? Please help.

  2. #2

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Thanks for the gift! I bow to your experience so i wanted to be sure that i did not give the OP wrong info. - Silbar   Tx for all the help for me and everyone else! - angelcraze2   Rocksor knows cichlids! - Brhino   Can''t give rep points, but great job on the diagnosis/treatment - Boundava   Sending you a geophagus to  tank you for your analytical powers! - discusluv   

    Default


    3 Not allowed!
    All the fish were infected with ich. You don't have to see the ich on the fish. Ich can cause secondary bacterial infections.

    Bloating is a sign of bacterial infection.

    Never lower the dose of antibiotics unless stated by the manufacturer. It causes the pathogenic bacteria to become resistant. I know that with Kanaplex, you should not lower the dose. You don't need furan-2 unless you are dealing with columnaris. If fact, furan-2 is less effective at ph levels at 7.5 or higher.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Here's hoping for better luck with your tank. - Slaphppy7   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Is there any definitive way of knowing if columnaris is present?

    I did receive a reply from Carl on his AAP forum, he recommended Triple sulfa and Paraguard instead of the Kanaplex.
    Last edited by Debbie L; 02-24-2017 at 07:41 PM.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Here's hoping for better luck with your tank. - Slaphppy7   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Our pH is 6.8, ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0; nitrate: 40
    (water hardness test kit is on order)
    65 gallon, well-established tank with live plants

  5. #5

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Here's hoping for better luck with your tank. - Slaphppy7   

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Carl,

    Update: just called Seachem, advice: finish the last dose of Kanaplex (no need for water change since med breaks down after 48 hrs.) then stop all treatments and diligently watch fish for any signs of stress before looking at further treatments.

    Does this sound reasonable at this point?

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
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    Thanks for the gift! I bow to your experience so i wanted to be sure that i did not give the OP wrong info. - Silbar   Tx for all the help for me and everyone else! - angelcraze2   Rocksor knows cichlids! - Brhino   Can''t give rep points, but great job on the diagnosis/treatment - Boundava   Sending you a geophagus to  tank you for your analytical powers! - discusluv   

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Debbie L View Post
    Our pH is 6.8, ammonia: 0, nitrite: 0; nitrate: 40
    (water hardness test kit is on order)
    65 gallon, well-established tank with live plants
    Triple sulfa will not work with your ph. Maracyn-2 or minocycline is better.

  7. #7

    Join Date
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    Thanks for the gift! I bow to your experience so i wanted to be sure that i did not give the OP wrong info. - Silbar   Tx for all the help for me and everyone else! - angelcraze2   Rocksor knows cichlids! - Brhino   Can''t give rep points, but great job on the diagnosis/treatment - Boundava   Sending you a geophagus to  tank you for your analytical powers! - discusluv   

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Debbie L View Post
    Carl,

    Update: just called Seachem, advice: finish the last dose of Kanaplex (no need for water change since med breaks down after 48 hrs.) then stop all treatments and diligently watch fish for any signs of stress before looking at further treatments.

    Does this sound reasonable at this point?
    That sounds fine. If kanaplex does not work, try Jungle Fungus Clear from Walmart. It's the same ingredients as Furan-2.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Here's hoping for better luck with your tank. - Slaphppy7   

    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    We already purchased the Furan-2 in our mad scramble to save the fish, but we did not use it yet. Thanks.

  9. #9

    Join Date
    Aug 2014
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    No where near as cool as Mac
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    thank you for the moss - Hockey nut   For being a good sport ;-) - steeler58   No Message - BluewaterBoof   You deserve a medal for all of your hard work! - Silbar   Hang in there, you will get it all done! - RiversGirl   

    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    Sorry about your mass deaths, you have great advice from Rocksor-he is very good with diagnosis and meds. Hoping for a fast recovery for your tank.
    75g- Plecos, Rainbowfish, Edlers, Espei, Gouramis, Cory, Loaches, Amano, and misc.
    Two 5.5g- Shrimp tanks; one with 4 chili rasbora & Bloody Mary and second with Blue Dream shrimp
    5.5g- Rescue female betta Lucky Star
    20L- Rescue betta Tony Stark and pygmy corys
    20L- Pygmy cory, 2 vampire/rock shrimp, ember tetras and female guppies

    75g:
    Nat's 20L Tanks
    5.5 G Shrimp Tanks


    DebinWhitmore

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Latest gifts & ribbons:

    Here's hoping for better luck with your tank. - Slaphppy7   

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Thank you!

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