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Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2017
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    Default Tetra Algae Control Caused Chemical Burns On My Goldfish - I need help


    0 Not allowed!
    Let me start by saying, I am not totally new to goldfish keeping. I have a 65 gallon tank that has been doing great for almost a year now. The goldfish in it started in 20 gallon tanks and I moved them up as they grew. I know about cycling my tanks and to do frequent water changes and test my water regularly. We have well water and for the first time we had a green algae bloom in our 20 gallon tanks. I tried water changes and scrubbing the tank to no avail. It's been getting worse and worse over the past few months. I went to the pet store and they gave me Tetra Algae Control. I didn't even use the amount the bottle told me to because I was concerned about putting a chemical in the tank, but it is killing my fish anyway. One of them turned white and is losing it's outer layers. I called the specialty fish store in town and they wouldn't listen to me when I told them it wasn't a bacteria, it happened within a few hours of me adding the chemical. They told me to only do a max 20% water change. I did a 25% because I felt like that wasn't enough. That was last night, today after finally finding a little information on the internet I did a 50% water change and added new carbon filters to try and get more of the chemical out of the water. My questions are: should I keep doing daily water changes of 50% or is that too much? Should I try aquarium salt? If yes, how much? I have two 20 gallon tanks with one fantail goldfish and one common pleco each. I feel terrible and have learned my lesson, I will never use a chemical in my tanks again. I can't imagine the pain they are in and I just want to do whatever I can to alleviate it and hopefully save my fish.

  2. #2

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    Default


    3 Not allowed!
    Do you happen to have any API stress coat? Or are you able to pick some up ASAP? It really helps with fixing up the slime coat. Something I use when ever my fish get bumps or damage.

    So your not getting any issues with algae in the other tank, just the 20g tanks? What the filtration like? Also the water change sechdual prior to the treatment?
    What were the tank parameters? Any change in feeding??

  3. #3

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    Feb 2017
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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I had brown algae (diatoms) in the 65 gallon, but I bought a chinese algae eater and he keeps that one clean. Before this we had never had green algae, just the diatoms.

    On the 65g I have a fluval canister filter and on the 20g tanks I have Marineland Biowheel 150 filters. I clean the tanks weekly. No changes in feeding.

    Tank is testing zero nitrites, zero ammonia, 20 ppm nitrates, chlorine is zero, ph is 7. I have hard water.

    I will get some stress coat tonight. Should I stay away from the salt? What about water changes?

  4. #4

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I did have some stress coat under the aquarium and I put that in there. Should I add some bacteria too? I usually add it with water changes, but I wasn't sure what I should add due to their injuries.

  5. #5

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    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    Personally i have never used that product all so not use to it, so probably wait for some of the experts to give better advice regarding this product and options.

    The water testing was it done after the tetra algae control was added?

    Reason I am asking is in case it has possibly damaged your benifical bacteria.

    Personally I would keep adding the stress coat as per the instructions to get the slime coat back. Monitor the water paramiters prior to the water change daily, just in case a minni cycle starts if the bb is been damaged or killed.

    Seeing you have some carbon in the filter that will help take the tetra stuff out.
    The one thing I have learnt for injured stressed fish is to keep ultra clean fresh water. So keep up the water changes. Though for more i would at this stage be more 25-30% a day.



  6. #6

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Welcome to the AC.

    On a side note, that CAE can grow to almost 12" long, and they are known to become aggressive as they mature, even attaching themselves to other fish and sucking off their slime coat...not a good "community" fish to keep

    http://www.seriouslyfish.com/species...lus-aymonieri/

    http://www.fishlore.com/profile-chinesealgaeeater.htm
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal
    40 Gallon Breeder: ... Journal
    29 Gallon: ... Journal

    “If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went” - Will Rogers

  7. #7

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    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    CAE is bad, should not with Goldfish which have thick slime coats and the CAE will go after, plecos will go after them too which is why I don't ever reccomend a pleco in a goldfish tank. You pleco will need a much larger tank soon, or a pond as common plecos will get to 24".

    Water changes will be the best as clean water will help heal the fastest. Since you will be doing daily water changes I wouldn't add salt since you will have to adjust the levels with every water change. I would try to do at least 50% water changes a day, especially since your fish are all high waste producers.

    When you say green algae bloom do you mean green spot algae or green water, or cyanobacteria which is a blue green algae?

    How long do you have your lights on during the day? You may want to shut the lights off for a few days to starve the algae, the fish don't need the light. Even most plants are okay with 3-5 day light off.

    Once your fish have healed you may want to look into some fast growing plants that can out compete the algae tank. Something the goldfish like to eat is duckweed-it is a floating plant that can get out of control, but goldfish love-I mean love to eat it so they should keep it in control. Other fast growing plants are water sprite which is a stem plant that you can also float-but goldfish may eat too, or frogbit which is a larger floating plant the goldfish (to my knowledge) don't eat because they are fuzzy like peach skin.

    Use a credit card to scrape off as much algae from the tank as you can, do a big water change and clean the substrate to remove as much of the scraped off algae as possible. Then add the plants and hopefully you will see a reduced growth in algae in the future.
    Last edited by Boundava; 02-15-2017 at 03:28 PM.
    5.5g- Shrimp tank
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    DebinWhitmore

  8. #8

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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    My computer crashed and I couldn't seem to reply with my phone.

    I've been doing daily water changes and my fish are doing well. The one I thought for sure I would lose, is on the mend.

    My levels were testing regularly at the following before I put the algae control in the tank:

    High PH: 7.4
    Ammonia: 0
    Nitrite: 0
    Nitrate: 20-40

    Now - Tank 1:
    High PH: 7.4
    Ammonia: 0.50
    Nitrite: 0.25
    Nitrate: 0.0

    Now - Tank 2:
    High PH: 8.0
    Ammonia: 0.25
    Nitrite: 0.25
    Nitrate: 0

    The green algae was all over the tank. Attached to the rocks, the glass and plants. Water was clear, not green. It is much better now, so I guess I need to up my water changes to twice a week once I've gotten the tank recycled.

    All my problems have previously been with brown algae (diatoms). We use well water so there's no chlorine, but we do have high phosphate and silicate. I don't know those numbers now because my son borrowed the test bottles and never brought them back. I tried Phosguard, but it only works for a short time so I just stuck with taking the tank decorations out a couple times a month and scrubbing them down to get it off and that seemed to cut down on it. The green algae bloom was out of the ordinary for me and it was getting out of control which is why I tried the Algae Control. I will never make that mistake again. I always research stuff before doing it and the one time I don't, I almost kill my fish.

    I usually have duckweed or lettuce in each of my tanks, but the aquarium store was out the last time I went to get some. I will be getting some more tomorrow.

    As for the CAE, I had no idea. It makes sense now because the pet store talked me into buying two and I had to take one back because I saw it constantly going after my goldfish. I knew they could be aggressive, but the store told me it was with each other and didn't always happen. I have been keeping an eye on the other one to make sure he doesn't start with the aggressive behavior and so far he stays away from them. If he does start, our local fish store will take him as well as if they get too big for the tank.
    My 65 gallon tank is testing well, but I do intend to buy a 125 gallon tank at some point to move some of them into it and move the ones in the two 20 gallon tanks up into as well. No more small tanks after that. The big tanks are so much easier to maintain. I always thought the smaller tanks would be easier.

    I started out with the goldfish about a year ago now and I wasn't told a thing at Petsmart. About tank size required for goldfish, that testing the water was a necessity, or that they needed filtration or anything else.

    Thank you for your help and any other suggestions you have will be most appreciated!!

  9. #9

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    4 Not allowed!
    Glad to hear they are healing, and I am not surprised with Petsmart. They recommend waiting 2 days after setting the tank up before buying fish, I heard an employee tell a couple thinking about setting up a 36 bowfront kit.

    The algae should be better controlled with weekly water changes of at least 50%, you can use a original Mr. Clean eraser to get the algae off the tank walls before you do a water change. Just shut the filters off (or if it will take you a while leave them on and clean them after the water change) and do a quick wipe down of as much of the algae as you can get. If the algae is really stubborn a credit card works surprisingly well and is hard enough that is saves you scrubbing very hard and displacing tank water while you clean. Then do the water change to pull out any floating algae bits from your cleaning.

    The diatoms are unfortunately hard to deal with as you have silicates in your water. Manual cleanup is really the only option unless you decide to get an RO system.
    5.5g- Shrimp tank
    Tub Tanks
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    Fish room-*pending*


    TUB tanks:
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    Fish Room
    Salty Shrimp


    DebinWhitmore

  10. #10

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    2 Not allowed!
    I'm happy that your fish are looking better with the water changes and Stress Coat! What happened with the algae control sounded horrible. Regarding Petsmart, I made so many mistakes until I started doing research for myself online, then I found the AC forum and I've learned so much.
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
    -Kat

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