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  1. #11

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    0 Not allowed!
    So I looked at the Jack and there is a curve to the spine, but not as pronounced in the photo.

    When the company bought him they were told he was a Jack, but considering everything else I am learning about the original set up, I don't have much faith in the store that did it. So.... Jack could be... anything I guess. They've had this tank for I believe 5 or so years now. This is another angle for Jack. 20170201_124019.jpg
    Last edited by ecuij; 02-02-2017 at 08:42 PM. Reason: Added new picture of Jack

  2. #12

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    Thanks for the gift! I bow to your experience so i wanted to be sure that i did not give the OP wrong info. - Silbar   Tx for all the help for me and everyone else! - angelcraze2   Rocksor knows cichlids! - Brhino   Can''t give rep points, but great job on the diagnosis/treatment - Boundava   Sending you a geophagus to  tank you for your analytical powers! - discusluv   

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    2 Not allowed!
    Fish get a curved spine as a result of care and old age. However, based on the history of the tank and the young age of 5 years, it is due to the care of the tank, or not enough water changes to keep the nitrates below 20ppm.

    This is a normal Jack Dempsey. I don't think it will get any bigger, maybe an inch or 2, so it can stay in the 55g.

    Start with 25% water changes each day, and then after 1 week, you can change 50% of the water every 3 days until you can get a freshwater test kit.

    I would have stayed away from feeder fish because they get too large. Can you return them? You can put other barbs in there like rosy barbs since those won't get any bigger than the current barb in the tank. I wouldn't add more fish until you can fix the current tank.
    Last edited by Rocksor; 02-02-2017 at 09:03 PM.

  3. #13

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    2 Not allowed!
    Oh yeah, no adding until I get these two into healthy states.

    As for the Goldfish I can see if the store will accept them, if not I will see if any /responsible/ staff or families we serve are interested.

    I will start changing the water as of tomorrow, and perhaps see if my bosses will ok me entering the building when we are closed for the weekend. Should I put anything in the water I'm putting in? As in, continue the Tetra Safe until I am approved to purchase some better water conditioner, such as the one that was suggested? I'm technically leaving work now, but will be continuing to post and be on here once I get home.

    Thank you so much for helping me with this. I do love fish tanks, just never had one of my own to care for until I adopted this one.

  4. #14

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    Thanks for the gift! I bow to your experience so i wanted to be sure that i did not give the OP wrong info. - Silbar   Tx for all the help for me and everyone else! - angelcraze2   Rocksor knows cichlids! - Brhino   Can''t give rep points, but great job on the diagnosis/treatment - Boundava   Sending you a geophagus to  tank you for your analytical powers! - discusluv   

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    1 Not allowed!
    I would use seachem prime, more economical in the long run

  5. #15

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    2 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by ecuij View Post

    Thank you so much for helping me with this. I do love fish tanks, just never had one of my own to care for until I adopted this one.
    Good for you for stepping up to try to help these poor fish. I do hope you are able to bring this tank environment around to a healthy state.

  6. #16

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    2 Not allowed!
    Hi everyone!
    Just wanted to update everyone on the tank since you guys have been awesome!
    The tank is looking better and the high levels are starting to come down. Right now I am using both kind of tests as I don't think I am doing the master kit tests right. The levels looked great with that one, but I know its too soon for the levels to be perfect and the paper strips still say nitrate is super high. But better than it was when I posted.

    But! Jack is already looking better. He has most of his color back so I feel like I'm on the right track.
    20170210_164342_Burst12.jpg

    Sorry for the bubbles I put in a bubble wall so there would be more air in the water and he won't leave the bubbles alone.

    The barb is also looking better but I couldn't get a picture of him because he kept swimming to fast and I was already there an hour after closing.

    I'm going to keep in the water changes until the levels are where they should be.

    I'm just happy that the tank is already starting to be better.


  7. #17

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    0 Not allowed!
    Good to hear you're getting the tank squared away! High levels of Nitrate are taken care of by water changes. How often and how much at a time have you changed the water since taking over? If the Nitrates still haven't come down but are not going up any more then you may have to double up on them until they're under 20ppm.

  8. #18

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    0 Not allowed!
    Since taken over I was doing weekly changes of maybe 10% but since recieving this advise I have begun doing 15% daily, with the exception of the weekend and Thursday (snow day) as my work building was closed.

    Next week I am going to start the 50% every two days as advised. Hopefully this will work, though I know it will take a while.


  9. #19

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    3 Not allowed!
    Hey and welcome to ac,

    Really big thumbs up for stepping up and getting stuck in and looking after the tank.
    Years ago I set up and maintained a library display tank, which taught me a few tips and tricks for getting things passed management, which I will pass on for you.

    One of the first things is to be clear on what you need with a budget semi in mind for them to see.

    So assuming your in the USA it's a bit hard for me to give figures. So for reference the prices I list are in NZD.

    1. Prime conditioner $30.00 NZD for 500ml [Which will last a couple of months depending on how much is needed. so a recurring bill.]
    2. API master test kit $75.00 NZD
    3. API stress Coat $30.00 NZD [I use when cycling to eliminate damage to fish's slime coat. Also very handy for some basic injuries ect.]
    4 Food's $50.00 NZD [Just a multiple selection for suit various dietary requirements]
    5. Filter consumables $20.00 [from what I have seen with the type of filtration that you have Ceramic Media and some filter wool would fit in well, vs constant replacement of the cartridges.]


    These are the first things you will need to sort out. I see every one else has post's what you do need as well! But the approach is more I am aiming at, more to help in getting stuff through management a lot quicker and easier. Makes looking after a tank so much simpler.

    The next part of the list is a project idea as to what you plan to do and why. IE i see that the tank is needing to go through a cycle again.
    one of the things that you will need to take note of is to explain why you need the test kits. [Monitoring water parameters now and in the future.] Also have a note or two from the fish in cycle sticks, to back up the idea. Then also explain that stocking will need to be adjusted and worked out to suit the tank, once all is stable again. Though the stocking I would say is for another discussion with management once things are stable.

    This I have found is best to be itemised in a basic structure of cost's and few jotted down lines with your basic plan. Makes it easier to sort out for management and also simple for you to then know what you need also the possible cost.

    For example the set up that was done for the library went to $3500.00 finished and stocked. Very simple set up but still needed approval ect. But the process became simple and stream lined with a basic budget cost, Also factored in other incidentals so had a total budget for $4000.00 approved and from what I know the spare $500.00 has been used in the last few years for food and Prime only.

    I know this will be a lot of possible semi useful information. But it has worked in the past, and also makes it easier to get the important things which most of the time people won't think of when its actually detrimentally important part/parts of fish keeping.

    hope this helps,

    mac

  10. #20

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    3 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by ecuij View Post
    Next week I am going to start the 50% every two days as advised. Hopefully this will work, though I know it will take a while.

    Good. You'll have better results doing 50% with getting the Nitrates down. Remember to put dechlorinator before adding tap water so the BB isn't hindered or destroyed. Keep us posted!
    * 100gal show
    - planted w/ Crypts, Vals and Amazon Swords
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    Pleco, Odessa Barbs, Corydoras schwartzi, Corydoras panda, GB Rams
    * Fluval Spec V
    - 3 fancy guppies, 1 Serpae Tetra, 1 Black Phantom Tetra
    - planted w/ Vals and Crypts
    * Fluval Spec V
    - 3 fancy guppies, 2 Serpae Tetras
    - planted w/ Water Onions and Crypts

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