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  1. #1

    Exclamation (Goldfish) How to slow down fin rot until medications arrive (in about 2 weeks)??


    0 Not allowed!
    Hello all! I'm new here in the fish keeping community and I need some help dealing with (maybe) finrot.

    Some background information about my goldfish: I only recently got him/her recently because a neighbor of mine had an emergency and could no longer take care of the fish. During that time, I had no knowledge on fish keeping but I accepted anyways because I didn't think it would be difficult. But boy was I wrong. I found out the fish was a comet goldfish and 10 gallons (which is the tank I'm keeping him/her in right now) was not big enough! And I also did not cycle my tank because I didn't know I had to so I'm figuring out how to deal with that now.*

    Tank details:
    -Tank size: 10 gallons
    -Water parameters: Ammonia–0, pH–7.6, Nitrite–0, Nitrate–0-5.0 ppm (not exactly sure, I only know that it's somewhere in between those two numbers), according to API's master test kit. I just did a water change now.
    -Heated?: yes
    -Temperature: 22ºC (so 71ºF)
    -Filtered: yes
    -substrate: sand
    -aerator: yes
    -plants–live or fake: live (marimo)
    -food: new life spectrum (non-medicated), and hikari (both pellets are soaked in garlic guard and vitachem
    -water conditioner: prime, and sometimes api's stresscoat
    -water change schedule: used to be twice a week, now every day (25% water change everyday, 50–65% water change if i seriously have to skip a day)
    -any other tank mates: no
    -any change in activity?: not at all, he/she's always busy picking at the heater, the sand, or the plants, and just swimming around. I see him/her resting in the morning but that doesn't worry me because it's pretty early in the morning.
    -anything else added to the water after water change?: some garlic guard because I read it would boost their immune system even if it's put in the water and I started putting rooibos tea hoping that would help as well?? He/she's also eating like usual, no signs of anything wrong.

    How he/she looks:
    At first, there were red veins appearing in his fins and I researched why that was happening–many said it was due to bad water conditions. So I tested the water (everything was the same as the water parameters above) and did a water change. It didn't seem to go away so I just kept doing water changes everyday. It would slowly go away, but if I skipped a day, it would immediately come back, and I figured that I should just do water changes every day no matter what. Then his/her fins started*getting damaged, and I had no idea why. My first thought was that decorations were the cause of that, so I did a water change and removed the decorations that I thought were doing that to him/her. The next day, it started looking even worse, especially the caudal fin. Unlike the dorsal fin and pectoral fins, which looked like they were evenly rotting off, the caudal fins were just ripping in different areas and there are a few red dots on the area being affected.

    Pictures of what he/she*looks*like now:
    https://s28.postimg.org/uroxppuct/IMG_5168.jpg
    https://s28.postimg.org/d2x6y3ilp/IMG_5170.jpg
    https://s28.postimg.org/bpa5gj8q5/IMG_5171.jpg

    Medicines I should be receiving in two weeks:
    My stepdad went to the mainland for two weeks and will be stopping by the pet shop for me (I don't live in the US so there is a limited amount of things I can actually get from there.
    I asked him to get me:
    -Kanaplex
    -more API stresscoat
    -API stress zyme?? (i just wanted to try this out)
    -Maracyn (I already tried maracyn 2 on the goldfish but it did nothing so I'm guessing I used it on the wrong disease. Hopefully maracyn does the trick)
    -more vitachem and guarlic guard
    -Jungle Fungus Clear
    -seachem's stress guard (i also wanted to try this out)

    The problem is that the rot is affecting him/her fast, and I don't know if water changes will slow things down until I can fix it. I apologize for this being super long, I wanted to provide as many details as I can from the top of my head, but if you have any more questions, please feel free to ask me. I appreciate any help I can get.*

    I feel so ashamed I couldn't prevent this from happening, I should have done more research when I had the time.*

    But anyway, thank you in advance!

  2. #2

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    5 Not allowed!
    In order to get the finrot to slow down or heal, you must keep your water as clean as possible.
    A comet goldfish in a 10 gallon should necessitate much larger water changes. 50% per day isn't unreasonable, especially if your goldfish is currently in a weakened state.
    Are you sure your measured water parameters are accurate? A goldfish in an uncycled 10 gallon should be producing noticable amounts of ammonia. Could it be that you're testing immediately after a water change?

    To improve water quality, you should be feeding the bare minimum if you aren't already doing so. This translates to what the fish can eat in 1 minute or so, and any leftovers removed.

    Since you've got an aerator, raising the temperature by a few degrees may also increase the fish's metabolism and help ward off disease. Make sure the water remains well oxygenated though, as warm water holds less oxygen.

    Some people find that adding a small amount of salt to the water helps, but I don't have much experience with that. What has worked in my experience is adding hydrogen peroxide to the aquarium water. Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizing agent and presumably lyses the cells of pathogenic bacteria. Since hydrogen peroxide breaks down rapidly, it should be added every day after a water change. 5ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide in a 5 gallon hospital tank was an effective and apparently safe concentration for me. In an emergency you can also catch the fish and use a cotton swab to spot-treat the infection. However, the capture process is obviously stressful for the fish and you must make sure that the peroxide doesn't trickle into the gills.

    Of the medications you ordered, kanaplex will probably end up being the most useful. The erythromycin in maracyn targets primarily gram-positive bacteria, instead of the gram-negative ones commonly responsible for aquarium diseases. I don't have much experience with the other medications.
    This page http://www.americanaquariumproducts....edication.html and its links are a goldmine of information and a must-read for every aquarist.
    Last edited by madagascariensis; 01-15-2017 at 04:49 PM.

  3. #3

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Oh geez, I'm so stupid. I have forgotten to test my water before doing a waterchange! I will do so after I get out of school, and I will also start my 75% water change schedule starting today. Is that too much? 75% every day?

    Also I feed the fish 9 pellets every night, and he eats them all in under 30 seconds. Should I still cut down the amount I'm feeding him? Maybe to 5 pellets every night? I've also raised the temperature this morning, as well as increased the power of the aerator so he has more oxygen now (hopefully).

    As for the hydrogen peroxide, do I use one specifically made for aquarium use or just the ones at the pharmacy for a First Aid situation? And if I were to treat the whole tank (is that safe?), what should the dosage be? If you put 5ml in your 5 gallon quaratine tank then do I put 10 ml for my 10 gallon tank? I don't want to risk harming my fish so I don't think I'll be putting the hydrogen peroxide directly onto the area that is affected, but I will do it if it is absolutely necessary.

    I'm planning on using Kanaplex when everything else does not work because I heard that the fish can build an immunity to it. That does not sound good.

    Thank you for your response, by the way, it is very helpful and educational.

  4. #4

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    2 Not allowed!
    The 3% peroxide in pharmacy. You can treat the tank because the peroxide (H2O2) will break down in water. If you are afraid of overdosing the peroxide then go with 5ml instead of 10. Also agree that you should go right to the kanaplex once you get it because prolonging by treating with the wrong meds is worse than the fish building an immunity which shouldn't happpen if you follow the dossage.

    You should think of finding this guy/gal a pond too. They are very active when healthy and will need a big tank or best a pond to be with buddies and swim in. Thank you for helping your friend and all you are doing to help this guy/gal.
    75g- Plecos, Rainbowfish, Edlers, Espei, Gouramis, Cory, Loaches, Amano, and misc.
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  5. #5

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    1 Not allowed!
    A while back, my electric blue ram (which are very sensitive fish) got fin rot in her quarentine tank. I never even added any antibiotics, just kept the water prestine with daily water changes and she healed and is doing well in my 120g today. I used aquarium salt though. Check out the thread, lots of pics and info from others helping me.

    http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...d.php?t=122601

    So keep up the daily water changes :) Keep his tank clean by syphoning up debris off the bottom while you change water. Take pics of your comet daily to compare to see if the fins are growing back.

    Which water conditioner do you use? Seachem makes a water conditioner "Prime" and it will neutralize any ammonia for 48hrs. It would be useful while your tank is cycling to alleviate any further stresses off your goldfish.
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  6. #6

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    2 Not allowed!
    Just wanted to add: If you read that link, ignore the temperature and pH comments since it does not apply to goldfish (they like different water parameters). I'm also not suggesting Melafix, although I can't say for sure it didn't help. I also cured the beginning of fungus on the fin of one of my angelfish with peroxide and a Q-tip. I only had to swab her fin once.

    With the red spots on your comet's fins and body, you might end up needing heavier meds eventually. I also vote for kanamycin (kanaplex) as directed of you have to. But good water and salt/peroxide should help for now.
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
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  7. #7

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Hello! I will take your word for it and use kanaplex right after I get it. And I have news about the tank: I'm getting a bigger one! I made space for a 75 gallon tank (or maybe even bigger, I have to measure the counter again) so I'm going to get the tank as soon as I can and start cycling it. I will also get the peroxide today, thank you!

  8. #8

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by angelcraze2 View Post
    Just wanted to add: If you read that link, ignore the temperature and pH comments since it does not apply to goldfish (they like different water parameters). I'm also not suggesting Melafix, although I can't say for sure it didn't help. I also cured the beginning of fungus on the fin of one of my angelfish with peroxide and a Q-tip. I only had to swab her fin once.

    With the red spots on your comet's fins and body, you might end up needing heavier meds eventually. I also vote for kanamycin (kanaplex) as directed of you have to. But good water and salt/peroxide should help for now.
    Someone else mentioned aquarium salt so I'll get to starting the treatment today. Just a question: can the peroxide be used at the same time as the salt, or should I put it in after I finish the treatment?

    P.S. I use seachem prime as my water conditioner

  9. #9

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    1 Not allowed!
    Great news on the 75. It will be perfect for him/her.
    75g- Plecos, Rainbowfish, Edlers, Espei, Gouramis, Cory, Loaches, Amano, and misc.
    Two 5.5g- Shrimp tanks; one with 4 chili rasbora & Bloody Mary and second with Blue Dream shrimp
    5.5g- Rescue female betta Lucky Star
    20L- Rescue betta Tony Stark and pygmy corys
    20L- Pygmy cory, 2 vampire/rock shrimp, ember tetras and female guppies

    75g:
    Nat's 20L Tanks
    5.5 G Shrimp Tanks


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  10. #10

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by goldiemaboi View Post
    Someone else mentioned aquarium salt so I'll get to starting the treatment today. Just a question: can the peroxide be used at the same time as the salt, or should I put it in after I finish the treatment?

    P.S. I use seachem prime as my water conditioner
    Great! You're using the no1 water conditioner. And a 75g well be so exciting! Congrats!

    This is a quote from the thread I linked to help my ram.

    Q-tips and Hydorgen peroxide. You only need to do this once to treat fin rot if the fins are not growing back......

    If there is no deterioration in the fins and you see growth, just keep nitrates below 20ppm with water changes. Keep the salt at 1 tablespoon per 5 gallon for 1 week to prevent columnaris from occurring.
    I'm not sure about whole tank peroxide dosing, I've only ever spot dosed. Hopefully someone else can answer that question with certainty. In the meantime, I'll try to find out!
    GiVe Me sHrEd TiLL i'M dEaD
    -Kat

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