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Results 21 to 30 of 41
  1. #21

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    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Rocksor View Post
    Threads combined.
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal
    40 Gallon Breeder: ... Journal
    29 Gallon: ... Journal

    “If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went” - Will Rogers

  2. #22

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by John_Johnathan View Post
    I had his hospital tank water tested last week. It measured
    ammonia = 0 ppm
    nitrite = 3 ppm
    nitrate = 10 ppm
    ph = 7

    All other numbers being within acceptable ranges...Someone said the Nitrite @ 3 is to high. I did a filtration adjustment and a 1/3 water change so that number should be lower now.

    So...that being said....are you saying that the problems I've described are due to filtration not being established yet?
    ...that hes going to get over these things in week or so when it gets more established?
    PH is wrong for that type of fish, which means you have neutral to soft water. The water must be hard and have a PH above 8.0.

    Nitrites should be 0ppm, do enough water changes to bring it down to less than 0.25ppm.
    Last edited by Slaphppy7; 12-14-2016 at 01:31 AM.

  3. #23

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    0 Not allowed!
    Okay....I dont know whats to be done about bringing the ph up 1 point.

    ....but I can keeps doing the water changes to bring down the Nitrate level...and get it tested again,

    ...but in the mean time...the fish still hasnt eaten in 2 weeks. Is he sick...internally? He still looks good on the outside...He just looks.....thinner.

    What if anything is to be done about these thing?

    Thanks

  4. #24

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    3 Not allowed!
    Fix the high nitrites good clean water is the best treatment right now.

    Biological filtration means the cycle of nitrogen breakdown via nitrifying bacteria. These bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite then again into nitrate. So from your tank reading 3ppm nitrite means the nitrogen cycle is not working correctly. Nitrites in a properly cycling biological filtration will be 0ppm.

    Nitrites as its less toxic then ammonia it still can have serious effects including death of the fish.

    You will make things worse by removing or changing the filter.





    How do you usually cycle a tank?
    Last edited by AmazonJoe; 12-14-2016 at 11:00 AM.

  5. #25

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    1 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by Slaphppy7 View Post
    Hello,
    That nitrIte level is too high, it needs to be 0....apparently, this tank is not fully cycled yet.

    A cycled tank will have 0 ammonia, 0 nitrItes, and some sitrAtes.

    Read about cycling with fish here: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

    You should really be testing your own water, look into getting one of these ASAP: https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwate...water+test+kit

    Get this water conditioner too, it will neutralize the nitrIte levels until the tank is fully cycled: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-11604...=seachem+prime

    I have no idea what the protrusion is, others will help with that.
    Good advice ^^^

    Especially the seachem Prime this could help pretty much instantly combined with the WC's...

  6. #26

    Join Date
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    2 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by John_Johnathan View Post
    Okay....I dont know whats to be done about bringing the ph up 1 point.

    ....but I can keeps doing the water changes to bring down the Nitrate level...and get it tested again,

    ...but in the mean time...the fish still hasnt eaten in 2 weeks. Is he sick...internally? He still looks good on the outside...He just looks.....thinner.

    What if anything is to be done about these thing?

    Thanks
    You are a severe disadvantage because you do not have the proper testing equipment. Besides the master test kit, you need an API GH KH test kit.

    To get the fish well you have to cycle the tank and bring the water chemistry to the right level for that fish at the same. Soft water will cause this fish not to maintain the proper mineral balance in its body and will prevent a fast recovery.


    http://www.cichlid-forum.com/article..._chemistry.php

    Recipe for Rift Lake Cichlids.

    http://www.cichlid-forum.com/articles/buffer_recipe.php

  7. #27

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    0 Not allowed!
    Howdy...

    Working on the cycling thing.

    Question: Regarding the Seachem Prime. I keep forgetting to mention that I've been adding/generally use... Tetra AquaSafe Plus. Is that not satisfactory?

    ...I wouldnt want to be using not good enough stuff.

  8. #28

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    2 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by John_Johnathan View Post
    Howdy...

    Working on the cycling thing.

    Question: Regarding the Seachem Prime. I keep forgetting to mention that I've been adding/generally use... Tetra AquaSafe Plus. Is that not satisfactory?

    ...I wouldnt want to be using not good enough stuff.
    Prime temporarily detoxifies up to 1ppm ammonia and up to 1ppm nitrite for no longer than 48 hours. Tetra Aquasafe plus does not do that and it overall more expensive than Prime.

  9. #29

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    0 Not allowed!
    Okay...Update Time !!

    That Prolasped Anus (or whatever it was) condition, shown in the picture above...has gone away.

    But...my fish still does not eat regularly.

    Yes, I've been doing 1/3rd to 1/2 water changes every 2 to 3 days.
    Yes, I've switched to using PRIME (seachem)

    To try and coax him to eating..
    Pellets soaked in Entice (Seachem)...frozen bloodworms and beefheart, even beefheart mixed with bits of granulated garlic. (thats the only thing he took a couple bites of..then went back to ignoring it. I mean really he will hover right above a sunken pellet or chunk of frozen food...and leave it alone.

    (Note: Yes...I clean up excess food.)

    ...And I've even ran him through a 3 dose, 6 day cycle of Kanaplex (Seachem). That ended 6 days ago.

    ...Still he doesnt eat.

    False hope:
    Dec 25..one day after I did a wAter change and started using Prime, I saw him trying to bite the water bubbles floating along the top (His food is the Hikari-floating type)..so playing a hunch I dropped a pellet in..and he at it. Well...sorta. He spit it back out because it was still hard...then came back for it in a minute and ate it again...spit it out ..ate the smaller pieces...and so on. He did this for a couple pellet I followed up with. The next day he went back to ignoring the food.

    Pretty much the same thing went on two nights ago after I did another water change and put back in more Prime.

    I dont know if this triggers back his eating mechanism for a short time...what I do know is that it not effective enough because its pretty much just picking at his food.

    As far as how he's doing goes...well again on the exterior...he looks fine. He has no external disease....he just looks thinner. He still swims around..he still likes watching people, etc., though with not as much energy as he used to. Occasionally, he has taken to hanging out near the top, in the corner where the air stone bubbles go up. Ohhh...and also ocassionally he has taken to Flashing on the gravel on the bottom of his hospital tank.

    Now, I know you guys will want Water parameters...sorry... but I dont have them tonight.

    But I am wondering if...considering what I've noted above...if theres a plan B at this point.

    ...Its been 4 weeks now.

    ...I dont imagine he can keep this up.


    Please advise.

    Thanks

  10. #30

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    1 Not allowed!
    Hey there,

    Have you been able to get the test kits yet? If so how is it going getting the alkalinity up to help him get back on his natural levels.
    Really the best advice is get the test kit asap. Then we can work on it from there the moment you have it. Other wise we are stabbing around in the dark, or going the wrong way with out accurate data.

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