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Results 1 to 10 of 17
  1. #1

    Default defining a mature tank


    0 Not allowed!
    When would you consider an aquarium “mature”? I’m finding differing definitions on this. I’m reading this defined mostly in terms of length of time that fish have been housed in the tank.

    Is it more to do with the stability of the water perimeters? Or does it refer to how firmly established the BB are? (I guess those 2 things are pretty much the same thing, huh? So maybe that is it, more than anything else.)

    I'd appreciate input, as I'm wanting to start adding my bottom dwellers next and read they require a mature tank. I'll wait if I must... but of course want them as soon as I can safely add them.

    I do have a few live plants, do weekly PWC and my tests remain stable. Thank you for your thoughts.
    40 gal fw: 3 Platys; 16 Neon Tetras; 9 Cherry Barbs; ~30 Red Cherry Shrimp; an Assassin snail
    live plants: 2 Lace Java Fern on dw; a Moss ball; 2 bunches of Java Moss on rocks; some Cladophora algae on dw

  2. #2

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    Default


    5 Not allowed!
    Forgive me as I do not remember how long this tank has been running (fully cycled with fish in it). It is a rather vague definition because it'll vary depending on what type of tank and what type of fish. Good news though, you have a basic community tank and you want cories so you don't need to wait for say, algae films to develop and things like that. I think what most are concerned about is making sure things stay stable. You can run a tank for a while and then something crazy happens that was building up for a while and you just didn't know it. Cories are sensitive because they stay on the bottom and that is where all of the toxins settle. So yes a good BB establishment and getting comfortable with maintaining an aquarium are essential. With that being said I think you would be ok with introducing cories. There was talk about getting small schools of larger cories and a big school or smaller ones. I'd just get one right now and let them settle in. Everything goes well then in a month get you some more.
    Increasing your biodiversity increases your stability.

    You know what this tank needs? ........................ Crypts.

  3. #3

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    Default


    5 Not allowed!
    Stable water parameters and a cycled filter are the beginnings of a mature tank. A fully mature tank in my opinion is one that has had time to "grow" all the bio-film and micro-organisms that naturally develop in any ecosystem. This can take many months to more than a year to fully develop, the nitrifying bacteria we grow to cycle the tank is just the beginning and there are many other types of bacteria growing around the tank, some good some bad. As Compass stated, there is no set time frame for a tank to be considered fully mature, there are to many factors involved in the process. That being said, you don't have to wait for your tank to be fully mature to add your corys. Stable water parameters, enough room, and compatible tank mates are all that is needed.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.


  4. #4

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Many thanks to both of you for your help.

    The 3 Platys were added in only a short time ago -- on April 2 -- so really just over a month now.

    forgot to add: I did the fishless cycle before adding those. That was something else this forum taught me.
    Last edited by RiversGirl; 05-09-2014 at 03:45 PM.
    40 gal fw: 3 Platys; 16 Neon Tetras; 9 Cherry Barbs; ~30 Red Cherry Shrimp; an Assassin snail
    live plants: 2 Lace Java Fern on dw; a Moss ball; 2 bunches of Java Moss on rocks; some Cladophora algae on dw

  5. #5

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I'm with Mommy1, a year sounds right to me, fresh or salt. It seems to me all the "glitches" stop after a year.
    Life is tough, it's even tougher if your stupid.

    If your not angry, your not paying attention...

    150G FWLR (Morays) 75G Fresh (Assrtd) 24G Cube (Reef/Goby) 10G Fresh (Beta)

  6. #6

    Default


    3 Not allowed!
    You've been given excellent advice so far. I don't really think that I even need to say anything anymore, but I will just chime in for the sake of it.
    When you freshly set up a tank, it has nothing alive about it. By the time you've cycled it you've got the bare bones, the skeleton crew of microorganisms that are required to keep fish alive.
    Things are still sensitive and easily can be thrown out of whack.

    My definition of mature is when a tank gains a good amount of the "accessory critters" that may not be absolutely necessary to the health of the tank, but nevertheless are beneficial. Due to their presence, there is much more redundancy and things don't go wrong as easily. Some tanks, such as planted tanks where life can be imported from elsewhere, can mature quite quickly, while other tanks may never really gain more than a few species beyond the fish.

    I will compare my planted tank with a high school tank I take care of to illustrate. In my tank, there are half a dozen types of algae, none intrusive as the plants compete quite well. When I take a flashlight and point It at the substrate after dark, I can see darting Copepods, seed shrimp, colonies of annelid worms, malaysian and ramshorn snails, planaria and other critters squirming around. When I look at some gunk under a microscope, there are moving planaria, nematodes and paramecia to be seen. I can overfeed or skip water changes for several weeks and nothing happens because the system is redundant.
    The school tank on the other hand, has nothing more than the fish, the beneficial bacteria and some green algae which grows rampantly. I must not overfeed the slightest or the algae goes nuts over night. When I do a gravel vacuum, poo comes out just as it had left the fish, failing to decompose. Whenever I stir up the substrate in my planted tank, a rich, dark brown silt appears that might as well be the aquatic equivalent of compost.

    Now to actually answer your question: I do not believe you really have to wait a year for full maturity of a tank to add bottom dwellers. 2 or 3 months after the first stock your tank should be sufficiently stable and you should know your tank sufficiently to be able to stock.

  7. #7

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    Why thank-you - Cliff The grammar crab has you in its grasp! D: - Trillianne Thanks for the clarification - Mith A few clown for the fellow SW clowns. :D - ILuvMyGoldBarb sorry about your angelfish - smaug 
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    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    I guess my definition varies a bit from everyone else's.

    To me a mature tank is one that hasn't undergone any major changes for year - so a tank could be 5 yrs old and still not be mature. If you overhaul a tank, or decide on entirely new stocking - that changes your tank and allows for disease/stress. My ten gallon was running for years, I moved and upgraded it to a 20gal long...I no long consider that tank mature, but it is stable.

    A tank that has not undergone any big physical changes, and has suffered no fish losses for about a year (excluding those one off mystery deaths or ones from old age) and is resistant to disease (if you happen to add a single component like new fish or a new decoration) is one that is mature.

    A tank that has had consistent water parameter readings for a period of time and no deaths for a few months is one I would call "stable".

    Persistent fish health is what determines the maturity of a tank to me. If you've had no fish health issues for a year then your tank is mature.

    So, given my definition of a mature tank - you certainly don't have to wait that long before adding new fish, as said before. The only exception would be for algae eaters - it does take time for a tank to grow the bio-film (algae-eaters can eat algae too small for you to see) so you should wait before adding these species to a new tank - or be ready to supplement a lot.
    20gal long planted community

  8. #8

    Join Date
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    Happy Mother's Day! - Slaphppy7 For 7,000 posts!! - steeler58 Thanks for the rep!! - steeler58 For working with new fish keepers! Outstanding this month. - Taurus Just Because - Surfdog 
    A round for the fallen this Memorial Day weekend. - Compass I had no cup, so I put it on a bun... - Slaphppy7 You are amazing! So smart and giving. - SeaLady Can't give you any more rep, but well said! - steeler58 Thank again!! You seem to enjoy your coffee. - steeler58 
    Thanks for the rep!! - Compass this doesnt look like pie... not the right kind.. - Sandz for providing solid guidance to others - RiversGirl Thanks for the rep! :) - Compass cheers - Fishhook 
    Using up my winnings on my friends! - Compass No Message - Fishhook beeeeeeeer! - Sandz Bottoms up! (even though you don't drink, lol) - Slaphppy7 We miss you... - Compass 

    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I agree with you Sheamurai about a tank that has been rescaped is no longer mature. If you use the same filter, it is still cycled, and can be stable, but it is no longer mature. This is why I often caution people with newly cycled tanks to take care because the tank is cycled, but not mature and too much digging around can upset what balance has started to develop. However, I consider the fishes health a symptom of a mature tank. You can take out all the current fish and replace them with new fish and not lose the bio-film, bacteria, and other organisms that make a tank mature.
    Last edited by mommy1; 05-10-2014 at 01:23 PM.
    When I go fishing I just place a sharp rock in the water and sit there waiting for all the dead fish to float to the top... Kingfisher
    Brutal honesty will be shown on this screen.
    I think my fish is adjusting well to the four gallon, He's laying on his side attempting to go to sleep on the bottom of the gravel.
    Tolerance is a great thing to have, so is the ability to shut up.

    I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you.


  9. #9

    Default


    2 Not allowed!
    I like all the definitions of a mature tank provide so far

    However, I think the time it takes for tank to become mature can vary greatly and will depend on a very wide range of factors making it very very hard to put a timeline on it
    If you take your time to do the research FIRST, you can successfully set-up and keep ANY type of aquarium with ease.
    "Not using a quarantine tank is like playing Russian roulette. Nobody wins the game, some people just get to play longer than others." - Anthony Calfo
    Fishless Cycle Cycling with Fish Marine Aquarium Info [URL="http://saltwater.aquaticcommunity.com/"]

  10. #10

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    Default


    0 Not allowed!
    I agree with Cliff, all excellent answers above, but no 2 tanks "mature" at the same rate, or in the same time frame. There are too many variables from one tank to the next to have a set time it takes for a tank to mature.

    I am glad RiversGirl started this conversation, very interesting to read everyones ideas and opinions on the matter.
    10 Gallon Beginner Tank... Journal

    40 Gallon Breeder: ... Journal

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