Aquarium Forum
 


Menu
  · Tropical Fish Home
· Fish News
· Aquarium Forum
· Buy & Sell
· Calculators
· Equipment reviews
· Free Aquarium Ebook
· Feedback
· Link to us
· Photo gallery
· Plant species
· Tropica Plant DB
Tropical fish species
· By Common name
· By Scientific name
Tropical Marine fish
· By Common name
· By Scientific name

_________________
 
      
        Via paypal

  AC news is a part of
      Nature Blog Network

      Reef Aquarium Blog

Privacy & Ad Policy

Articles
  · African Cichlids
· Algae Control
· Aquarium Decoration
· Aquarium Resources
· Aquatic Plants
· Barb Fish
· Betta Fish
· Breeding Fish
· Catfish
· Central American Cichlids
· Cichlids
· Clownfish
· Corals
· Corydoras Catfish
· Discus Fish
· Dwarf Cichlids
· Fish Diseases
· Frogs and Turtles
· Goby Fish
· Goldfish
· Gourami
· Invertebrates
· Jellyfish
· Killiefish
· Lake Victoria Cichlids
· Livebearers
· Malawi Cichlids
· Marine Aquariums
· Marine Aquarium Fish
· Other Fish
· Pleco
· Predatory Fish
· Photography
· Pond Fish
· Responsible Fish Keeping
· Rainbow Fish
· Shark Fish
· South American Cichlids
· Tanganyika Cichlids
· Tetra Fish
· Tropical Fish Food
Results 1 to 5 of 5
  1. Default My betta fish is sick?


    0 Not allowed!
    I'm not sure what is wrong with him. His scales are beginning to stick out. I can't tell if he is bloating or anything and his balance seems fine so I don't think it's dropsy. He's very lethargic and won't eat. He just floats in the corner near the surface barely moving. I'm new to keeping bettas so any advice or help will be appreciated. He is in a 10 gallon tank with a filter and heater.

  2. Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Sorry about your sick betta

    How long have you had him?
    How did you cycle your tank
    Have you checked for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates?
    At what temp are you keeping the water?
    Are there other fish in the tank and if so what are they and how many?

    specific answers to all of these questions will help figure out what might be wrong. Pineconing, however, is not a good sign, I'm sorry to say. It can be a symptom of parasites, toxic shock (high ammonia or nitrites or nitrates), or infection.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

  3. #3

    Default


    1 Not allowed!
    Agreed. Scales pineconing is a bad sign. Usually once a fish has dropsy there isn't any turning back, as it shows that there is severe internal malfunctioning.
    I'd euthanize it, but if you want to try to save the betta, turn the heat up to at least 80 degrees Fahrenheit, add a little salt and treat with an antibiotic(I've had good experiences with kanaplex).

    There's not a lot you could do got the betta now, but answers to fishmommie's questions would help a lot in determining what caused the dropsy in the first place.

  4. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Hi there, thanks for the answers guys. I've had him for about 2 months. I cycled the tank with food for a couple weeks. I have my own water testers (the kind that aren't strips) and have checked for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. All are at good levels. I'm keeping the water tempurature at 79 degrees and I have 2 mollies in the tank with him. I just recently treated for ich and he developed these symptoms with in the week of putting medicine in the tank. I put in a half tablet of the fizzing medicine from PetSmart. I think it was made by Tetra.

  5. Default


    0 Not allowed!
    Quote Originally Posted by arandomkitty View Post
    Hi there, thanks for the answers guys. I've had him for about 2 months. I cycled the tank with food for a couple weeks. I have my own water testers (the kind that aren't strips) and have checked for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. All are at good levels. I'm keeping the water tempurature at 79 degrees and I have 2 mollies in the tank with him. I just recently treated for ich and he developed these symptoms with in the week of putting medicine in the tank. I put in a half tablet of the fizzing medicine from PetSmart. I think it was made by Tetra.

    When you say your ammonia, nitrites and nitrates are at good levels that doesn't really tell us anything. what exactly does each one read? If ammonia and nitrites are anything but 0, your tank is not cycled and your betta is struggling with toxic poisoning. if ammonia and nitrites are 0 and nitrates are 20ppm or above then that could also causing damage. make sure you take your readings before you do a water change so they are accurate.

    Also, 2 weeks of cycling with food would not have been adequate for that tank to cycle. Generally it takes about 6 weeks with very precise measured dosing of pure ammonia. However, having said that, since the betta has been in the tank for 2 months, IF you've been doing weekly water changes of 30 - 50% the tank may actually be cycled by now even though it wasn't when you put him in there.

    When you added the mollies and they turned out to have ich, you unintentionally set the betta up for disaster. I have no idea what medication for ich 'fizzes' but I'd do a huge water change (at least 70%) and forget about the meds. Start upping the temp in the tank to 86 F over a 24 hour period. Do another huge water change tomorrow to get rid of any other meds that might still be in the water (you could also add fresh carbon to your filter and that would leach up any leftover medication.)
    Once you have the temp up to 86, leave it there until you see the last white spot. Then leave it at 86 for 7 - 10 more days.
    That should kill the ich on the fish and any eggs that have dropped to the substrate. Do your regular weekly water changes during this time, being careful not to let the temp drop below 86. Vac regularly too.
    after that extra 7 - 10 days, slowly lower the temp back to normal, do another good water change and vac. That will cure the mollies if it hasn't gone on too long.
    It may also help the betta but again, the pine coning is not a good sign.
    There's a good article on ich and dropsy here on the AC in the fish disease section. I'd read both of them so you can get a better understanding for what you're dealing with.
    Good luck and please ask questions.

    Oh - one more thing - a 10 gallon tank is really only large enough for the betta and maybe 6 neons or cardinals. if you lose him, and the mollies live, you don't have room for any more fish. Frankly mollies shouldn't be kept in tank smaller than 30 gallons because they will reach 3 inches in size. the tank should also be heavily planted.
    Sorry to keep giving you bad news :o(l
    Last edited by fishmommie; 03-30-2014 at 03:47 PM.
    30 g FW planted:corys, ABNP, blue angel, harleys, zebra danios, nerites & mystery snails
    15 g FW planted: crown tail betta, neons, snails
    90 g FW semi planted: Blood Parrots, severum, Jurupari, EBJD, congos, kribs, clown pleco, snails
    90 Gal Journal: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=93939
    Fishless cycling: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ead.php?t=5640
    Cycling with fish: http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aqua...ad.php?t=36492

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •