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Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. Default Buffering pH with Substrate

    0 Not allowed!
    Well, per my 10g tracking journal I am emptying one of the 10s and setting it up for a small (3) group of Lamprologus Ocellatus Golds

    My pH runs at 7.6 typcially, and I was advised to use a cichlid based sand to buffer it a bit...

    How would I approach water changes if I didn't want large pH swings, just smaller changes, I typically do 30% now

  2. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    What I would do is: get your tank set up and maintain a stable ph somewhere close to 8/ 8.2 with the sand and/or limestone/ holey rock, but as I stated in your other thread- you can keep them in 7.6, it just is not optimal for there species. You have a few options for water changes being as it is only a 10 gallon tank. You can premix whatever volume of water in a bucket that you will change, ie 30% etc, and mix in sodium bicarbonate. The starting point to get your ph up would be 1 teaspoon of baking soda for 5 gallons of water/ (add more or less to find your ph for first time.) I normally don't recommend messing with water chemistry but I know you are more than capable of it when I see your other tanks and read your wealth of knowledge, especially on plants. Your other option would be to do more frequent smaller changes like 15% twice a week- or more. Are you going to plant this tank at all? I would love to see what you can do with that if you are. If I'm not making any sense right now let me know. lol

  3. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    I know what you mean, I could do some holey rock and sand, would prefer smaller water changes over having to premix water... Right now I have a system done to change all the tanks and it's pretty quick.

    Tank will be lightly stocked, only 3 fish. And don't think I want to do plants In this one, plan is some holey rock, sand and shells

    Feel like that would be a more natural set up

  4. #4


    0 Not allowed!
    If you want natural then yes but do encourage algae.

    If this was my tank I'd order a TDS meter and a tub of Rift lake salt.

  5. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Yea my thought was I'll encourage algae - to a point of course, have the sand and rock to help buffer. I think eventually I will get into the salts and TDS meter, however as far as I'm aware these fish are currently in our local conditions which average as not very hard

  6. Default

    0 Not allowed!

    so a little more reading is saying that ocellatus might not work in a 10 :(

    The guy does have some multis, but I was really liking the golds

  7. #7


    0 Not allowed!
    My quick research seems to confirm that.

  8. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    seems to be conflicting honestly, both sides saying its fine. The one common thing I've seen is just add more shells to make them happy and reduce aggression

  9. Default

    0 Not allowed!
    Key word "might." They can just as easily not work in a 55 gallon too. My Multis killed all three of my White Calvus over night after peacefully coexisting for more than 8 months. Anything is possible with Cichlids. As I said in your other thread, the Golds have a high probability for aggression even more so than Multis or Similis. My point is that it is always a risk with any of these guys and can be at any time. They are all exceptionally smart as well. Sometimes it seems like they are acting up just to get under your skin. lol

  10. Default

    1 Not allowed!
    Lol, I'm getting what I consider a good deal through a local club member :)

    Gonna do a high ph test tonight, think I'm closer to 7.8. So maybe holey rock can get me higher. The sand appears to need to be order since nobody has it. So might do Pfs and the rocks

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